Certain Oils Don't Penetrate???

**ktani** · July 30th, 2009, 11:08 PM

Originally Posted by CavyQueen

You are too kind! Hazelnut oil seems perfect for hair: high in oleic acid and low in stearic acid. However, I read that it is astringent and may be used in acne products. Could the same oil used in acne products moisturize the hair? Thank you for all of your help. You have been great!

From this, it does not sound as if hazelnut oil is very penetrating. A barrier means that it sits on top of the skin. On the next page it refers to the oils as being occlusive. That means barrier too. Test strand it on your hair. You can always blott it off. Or, test it on your hands and see how greasy they get. Many things can be called astringent. Again, that comes down to degree. How astringent? What about using less? etc.

**CavyQueen** · July 30th, 2009, 11:15 PM

Originally Posted by ktani

From this, it does not sound as if hazelnut oil is very penetrating. A barrier means that it sits on top of the skin. On the next page it refers to the oils as being occlusive. That means barrier too. Test strand it on your hair. You can always blott it off. Or, test it on your hands and see how greasy they get. Many things can be called astringent. Again, that comes down to degree. How astringent? What about using less? etc.

Ahhh, I see. Thank you for that.

**ktani** · July 30th, 2009, 11:18 PM

Originally Posted by CavyQueen

Ahhh, I see. Thank you for that.

My pleasure!

**Dotlover** · July 31st, 2009, 02:04 AM

excuse my trial and error method of comprehension on this question, Jojoba oil in my experience does not penetrate the hair shaft and seem to do quite the opposite. I've used two different kinds. One from Sally Beauty which was VERY effective, and one pure Jojoba oil from a soap making supply company. The second oil was in no way the same as the liquid in the bottle from Sally's. It did not have an effect even after being washed and rinsed out of my hair, although it did leave it feeling quite greasy.. Maybe it was the method, as I would use the pure kind as a styling aid or if you make your own conditioners, use a very little.

**ktani** · July 31st, 2009, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by shrthairsuxlngh

excuse my trial and error method of comprehension on this question, Jojoba oil in my experience does not penetrate the hair shaft and seem to do quite the opposite. I've used two different kinds. One from Sally Beauty which was VERY effective, and one pure Jojoba oil from a soap making supply company. The second oil was in no way the same as the liquid in the bottle from Sally's. It did not have an effect even after being washed and rinsed out of my hair, although it did leave it feeling quite greasy.. Maybe it was the method, as I would use the pure kind as a styling aid or if you make your own conditioners, use a very little.

Welcome to LHC!

The best way to test an oil, is to try it. Jojoba oil quality will vary and different methods of use can yield different results. Agreed. I do not believe that jojoba oil penetrates the hair shaft either or if it does not by very much. I have used it as well.

**ktani** · July 31st, 2009, 07:10 AM

Originally Posted by ktani

Sesame oil 41% polyunsaturated acids, so it is not going to penetrate hair that well in my opinion. I was researching oils more for their chelating abilities than coating abilities but I did that too, to a degree. I did not do all oils though, lol.

Looking at this again, I do not know. The stearic acid content is low enough. It would be a matter of trying the oil.

**ktani** · July 31st, 2009, 07:20 AM

Going back to the research study that "started it all" on coconut oil preventing protein loss in hair, for an oil to penetrate hair and do the same, it is about the molecular weight and its shape and a principle fatty acid like (if possible) lauric acid, to have a good connection to hair proteins.

"Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft."

**ktani** · July 31st, 2009, 07:36 AM

From that same study, regarding sunflower oil, they refer to its "double bonds". This kind of information is not included in the information on oils, that is generally available. ".... In the case of sunflower oil, .... because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber...."

The following is not that much help. It is only the abstract though but it does not address what about the molecular structures are important, other than their being compact, or anything about their shape. ".... monounsaturated oils, such as olive oil, with more compact molecular structure seem to penetrate readily into the hair fiber," like this does.

To summarize, based on the research, for an oil to penetrate the hair like coconut oil is able to, and prevent protein loss, it needs to have a fatty acid similar to lauric acid as its principle fatty acid, a low molecular weight, and a straight linear chain (no double bonds).

**CavyQueen** · July 31st, 2009, 11:48 PM

Hi! I e-mailed L'anza, Ojon, Amazonia Nutrients, and Sephora (for Rene Furterer's Carthame-safflower oil conditioner) and asked about the penetration of carrier oils such as safflower, kukui nut, broccoli seed, passion flower, and brazil nut oils. I also asked how these oils benefit the hair if they do not penetrate the hair shaft. IF and when I can any responses, I will post them.

**CavyQueen** · July 31st, 2009, 11:51 PM

Originally Posted by ktani

From that same study, regarding sunflower oil, they refer to its "double bonds". This kind of information is not included in the information on oils, that is generally available. ".... In the case of sunflower oil, .... because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber...."

The following is not that much help. It is only the abstract though but it does not address what about the molecular structures are important, other than their being compact, or anything about their shape. ".... monounsaturated oils, such as olive oil, with more compact molecular structure seem to penetrate readily into the hair fiber," like this does.

To summarize, based on the research, for an oil to penetrate the hair like coconut oil is able to, and prevent protein loss, it needs to have a fatty acid similar to lauric acid as its principle fatty acid, a low molecular weight, and a straight linear chain (no double bonds).

Hi ktani! This post helped a bunch! Thank you.