The henna/cassia thread

**florenonite** · September 30th, 2020, 12:17 PM

Originally Posted by LadyStardust

Yeah, there are definitely times where I wish I could just use chemical dye, but it doesn't even feel like an option anymore. And, I don't know, I think it's actually kinda cool that henna changes so much. It makes the color feel so real, because in a way it is.

It's interesting that your hair seems to hold onto the henna, even though you described your base color as being a tad darker than mine. And Flor's hair is lighter than mine, and she needed extra henna too. I wonder if it's a porosity thing? I did a full 3 hour henna like 2 weeks ago, and it's starting to look sandy in indirect light. I think you mentioned that some people add 10g of kitsune to the fire genasi. Not sure if I did the math right, but wouldn't that bring it up to around 40% henna? I might have to try that next time.

I think it might be a porosity thing; Nightshade's natural colour is darker than mine, but hers doesn't fade as much. My hair is pretty low porosity and it's fine-textured (meaning that it doesn't necessarily have all three layers of cortex, cuticle and medulla), so I think the henna just doesn't "stick" as much. I think adding 10g kitsune to the Genasi is a good place to start, as that's a small enough change you're not likely to get a sharp demarcation line, but you should be able to see if it's still fading.

**stardust lady** · September 30th, 2020, 02:28 PM

Originally Posted by florenonite

I think it might be a porosity thing; Nightshade's natural colour is darker than mine, but hers doesn't fade as much. My hair is pretty low porosity and it's fine-textured (meaning that it doesn't necessarily have all three layers of cortex, cuticle and medulla), so I think the henna just doesn't "stick" as much. I think adding 10g kitsune to the Genasi is a good place to start, as that's a small enough change you're not likely to get a sharp demarcation line, but you should be able to see if it's still fading.

That's exactly what I suspected - fine textured hair doesn't have as much of a cortex for henna to bind to. My colors natural level is around dirty blond, and it's fairly fine I think, because I will lose a single strand of hair if it is stuck somewhere to my skin because it's too thin. Always thought it was thick because it's high density... Took me a while to realize those two things were not related. Excited to try a stronger blend! I would LOVE for my hair color to look like yours. Thanks for all the help guys!

**Jane99** · September 30th, 2020, 07:04 PM

I’m looking forward to hearing how it turns out for you!!

**Nightshade** · September 30th, 2020, 07:48 PM

Originally Posted by LadyStardust

Yeah, there are definitely times where I wish I could just use chemical dye, but it doesn't even feel like an option anymore. And, I don't know, I think it's actually kinda cool that henna changes so much. It makes the color feel so real, because in a way it is.

It's interesting that your hair seems to hold onto the henna, even though you described your base color as being a tad darker than mine. And Flor's hair is lighter than mine, and she needed extra henna too. I wonder if it's a porosity thing? I did a full 3 hour henna like 2 weeks ago, and it's starting to look sandy in indirect light. I think you mentioned that some people add 10g of kitsune to the fire genasi. Not sure if I did the math right, but wouldn't that bring it up to around 40% henna? I might have to try that next time.

Originally Posted by florenonite

I think it might be a porosity thing; Nightshade's natural colour is darker than mine, but hers doesn't fade as much. My hair is pretty low porosity and it's fine-textured (meaning that it doesn't necessarily have all three layers of cortex, cuticle and medulla), so I think the henna just doesn't "stick" as much. I think adding 10g kitsune to the Genasi is a good place to start, as that's a small enough change you're not likely to get a sharp demarcation line, but you should be able to see if it's still fading.

I agree that porosity is likely part of it--I do get some fading at my roots, but the second application makes it colorfast

I'll be curious how adding a smidge of extra henna works out for you! And I'm the worst person to check your math, but yes, I think that'd bring your total henna up to 40%

**stardust lady** · October 10th, 2020, 02:16 PM

Okay, so I used the Alluvial yesterday on my henna/cassia hair and did a before and after shot, one yesterday and one today, both at 1pm in the same room, same lighting, from about the same angle: http://imgur.com/a/KJXek47

Pretty big difference. The color was extremely dull before, and while it's still not quite as red as I'd like, it looks way better. Also so much softer and bouncier. I'll probably have to use this as a final rinse from now on.

**Carrie's hair** · October 25th, 2020, 01:23 PM

I decided to publish my mixture preparation method here. Maybe it will be useful to someone.
I always use demineralized water. When I have more time, I cook flaxseed on it. When I have a lot of time, first I make a decoction or infusion of herbs, and then I cook the flaxseeds on it. When I don't have time, I make the infusion / decoction only. Of which? Most often, what has moisturizing properties: hops, fucus, plantain, fenugreek, marshmallow. I also use chamomile. I strain and cool it. I pour the liquid over cassia with a little citric acid. I pour it a little so that it does not come out too rare. I wrap the container with a plastic bag, a towel and put it aside for 24 hours in a warm place. Cassia takes time to release the dye. About 20 hours. I prepare the henna later because it needs less time. Depends on the species. 2 to 8 hours.
I cleanse my hair with a strong shampoo without silicones and polyquaternium. Then I put on and hold max. 5 hours. I can't last longer.

After rinsing, I do not use any cosmetics on my hair for min. 48 hours. I'm just waiting for the next wash. All I can do is a linseed rinse. It does not affect color and oxidation.

Hope everything is understandable. I used the translator because my English is not very good.

**stardust lady** · November 3rd, 2020, 05:10 PM

Has anyone ever compared the difference between layers of henna/cassia vs a single application of henna? Would the result be pretty much the same? I was about to do a 40/60 henna/cassia, because my 35/65 is too yellow for my tastes, but I'm wondering if I should just go full henna instead.

**stardust lady** · November 4th, 2020, 10:47 PM

Just editing this post to say that I realized that in order for henna diluted with cassia to build up to a different color, it would have to change the molecule. And since it just dilutes it, then I suppose layering diluted henna would eventually look exactly the same as pure henna, at least after the cassia color fades. Well, hopefully that's correct at least. So I'm marching on with my stronger mix! Got a batch of 40/60 dye releasing as we speak.

I've also realized, embarrassingly, after going through past threads, that I've asked this question multiple times. My memory is so non-existent sometimes...

**Liz_H** · November 15th, 2020, 08:32 AM

I want to add sugar to my next batch. Do I need to wait for dye release to add it, or can I mix from the beginning? I'm going to mix up 150 gr of powder. About how much sugar should I use to get a nice smooth paste? I'm also going to use the mixer this time.

**Jane99** · November 15th, 2020, 12:17 PM

I don’t measure the sugar... I probably put in about a tablespoon of powdered sugar for about 50g of powder at the beginning and let it all dye release together. Maybe a little more. I can not believe how much it helps with drips!! And as a bonus, the powdered sugar I bought for christmas cookies 4 years ago is finally getting used up!