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Thread: The henna/cassia thread

  1. #361
    Henna Seeress Nightshade's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Veganmayhem View Post
    For a strawberry blonde coloring , and I see people say 40% henna, 60% cassia.... what does that mean in terms of table spoons? Or how can I measure this out correctly to get those percentages?
    You can still use percentages by volume. For example 4 teaspoons henna and 6 teaspoons cassia

    That said, you probably want to scale your henna down even more. My hair (below) is 35% henna and it's flame on orange. I'd say start with 20% henna, tops, and see where that gets you and then increase the % if you need to.

  2. #362

    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    This is what I’m working with here...more strawberry blonde at the roots and orange/red henna on the bottom. Please let me know your suggestions to make this mix. I have henna and cassia from Henna Sooq. I have a turmeric tea I was thinking of steeping that for the water and maybe orange juice?
    Last edited by Veganmayhem; September 16th, 2020 at 07:40 PM.

  3. #363
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    I'd cut the tumeric, it washes out quickly and stains you and your tub more than the hair. The acid also isn't necessary--the only time I recommend that is if you're getting a lot of fading. The lighting is really good in the picture and henna varies a lot in the light, but I'd stand by my earlier assessment of starting at about 20% henna and increasing from there.

  4. #364

    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Nightshade View Post
    I'd cut the tumeric, it washes out quickly and stains you and your tub more than the hair. The acid also isn't necessary--the only time I recommend that is if you're getting a lot of fading. The lighting is really good in the picture and henna varies a lot in the light, but I'd stand by my earlier assessment of starting at about 20% henna and increasing from there.
    Thank you. So you are suggesting water mixed with what, and no acid? Very interesting, I always heard acid needed. So this would be like 2 tbs of henna with 8 tbs cassia? Thank you so much for any more info you can give
    Last edited by Veganmayhem; September 16th, 2020 at 08:22 PM.

  5. #365
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Veganmayhem View Post
    Thank you. So you are suggesting water mixed with what, and no acid? Very interesting, I always heard acid needed. So this would be like 2 tbs of henna with 8 tbs cassia? Thank you so much for any more info you can give
    Aye a lot of people think henna is drying and then they're dumping loads of acid in it and wondering why XD I do think acids have its place, especially if your color is fading, but for the most part it's one of those things were a lot of the rules for henna in skin art got carried over for hair... and they weren't really tested and really don't apply.

    Yes, I think a 1 part henna to 4 parts cassia ratio is a good place to start

  6. #366
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    So I'm using the Fire Genasi. I had a couple layers on it already at 1 hour, then some light henna glosses, then a full app of fire genasi at 2 hours, then another full app two weeks ago at closer to 3 hours.

    I'm puzzled. My light auburn brown hair (tbh it's closer to dark ashy dirty blond these days) looks like medium brown with a little bit of red/orange? Not sure why it keeps fading and darkening/dulling. It's like it's not actually getting redder. I might start mixing some pure henna in to make it redder next time, but I don't want to go darker. Just redder. My base color should be light enough for what I'm trying to achieve, so idk what is going wrong.

    Could it be the extremely hard water where I live? (Thankfully we are moving soon to a city with soft water, I'm so tired of feeling like a raisin). Or maybe because I was using sulfate shampoo? I was clarifying and it didn't seem to help much. Should I be honey lightening?

    I'm stumped.

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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    I bet Ms. Nightshade will soon give you a more complete answer- but I know from experience that the hard water could definitely be causing some weirdness... Simple fix? Use distilled water from a bottle. ESPECIALLY for the actual mix that will be on your head. Also, if you can at all manage it, you should leave it on overnight, and maybe use a Hot Head(flaxseed stuffed terrycloth cap) or similar, to apply a bit of heat.

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    Member Jane99's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    I started noticing more of a red stain after I started freezing the dye released henna and then thawing. At that same time I also started adding hibiscus powder. I’m guessing the stronger dye came more from the freezing/thawing than the hibiscus. It also took me quite a few applications of biweekly strong henna/cassia glosses to get to the shade that I was happy with. I hope you can find a way to get redder!

  9. #369
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by LadyStardust View Post
    So I'm using the Fire Genasi. I had a couple layers on it already at 1 hour, then some light henna glosses, then a full app of fire genasi at 2 hours, then another full app two weeks ago at closer to 3 hours.

    I'm puzzled. My light auburn brown hair (tbh it's closer to dark ashy dirty blond these days) looks like medium brown with a little bit of red/orange? Not sure why it keeps fading and darkening/dulling. It's like it's not actually getting redder. I might start mixing some pure henna in to make it redder next time, but I don't want to go darker. Just redder. My base color should be light enough for what I'm trying to achieve, so idk what is going wrong.

    Could it be the extremely hard water where I live? (Thankfully we are moving soon to a city with soft water, I'm so tired of feeling like a raisin). Or maybe because I was using sulfate shampoo? I was clarifying and it didn't seem to help much. Should I be honey lightening?

    I'm stumped.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane99 View Post
    I started noticing more of a red stain after I started freezing the dye released henna and then thawing. At that same time I also started adding hibiscus powder. I’m guessing the stronger dye came more from the freezing/thawing than the hibiscus. It also took me quite a few applications of biweekly strong henna/cassia glosses to get to the shade that I was happy with. I hope you can find a way to get redder!
    I do think that minerals in your water could be worth checking out. I use a blend of Vit C and Citric Acid (Alluvial) to get the minerals off my hair. They can turn the Chrysophanic acid in senna greenish, which can really mute the orange-red of henna (because they're opposites on the color wheel).

    So I think that's worth a try.

    Another thing to consider is that it's hard to 'get redder' with a blend like Fire Genasi where the henna in it is already so dilute--it's a blend that was meant to stay orange/copper so more layers tend to just make it a darker version of the same. You're also using veeeeeeeeeeeery little henna between Genasi and your glosses--I understand that your goal is not to get too dark, but henna is like a bit of coffee in the bottom of a white cup--it's pale yellow-brown until you have enough depth of it to get to brown and then black. There is some level of dye saturation that you need to start trending red, and sadly in most cases that also means accepting that you have to go a little darker.

    Getting a true red with herbal colors is hard because henna itself is an orange-red. I have seen people with luck layering on hibiscus treatments to increase the red without going darker, but it's for sure a process.

    tl-dr, I'd try, in order:
    - A treatment like Miracle Water (there's a thread around here about it somewhere) or Alluvial to see what that does to your current color. The great news with this is that it acts retroactively, if this was part of your problem, you'll see quite a bit of brightening without doing anything else.

    - Consider increasing the amount of henna you're using. I know of at least one person who has fading with 51% henna in her blend, but not at 56% Everyone's hair has a different tipping point, so you don't even have to increase the amount of henna a lot, just a smidge more might put you over your hair's threshold for holding onto the color longer.

    - Try doing hibiscus treatments as their own step on top of your henna treatments. If I recall from the cherry cola thread, people were doing a two-step treatment with a bit of henna and then a hibiscus mud treatment because, like a lot of herbal colors, the hibiscus doesn't stay well on its own and likes unoxidized henna to grab onto. In any event, the cherry cola thread might be worth a read to see how people refined using hibiscus to get more red

    I hope that helps!
    Last edited by Nightshade; Yesterday at 02:45 PM.

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