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Thread: The henna/cassia thread

  1. #321
    Member Kaoria's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Nightshade, can I bother you for some advice on a cassia / henna blend? I'm trying to get a Titian red (not orange but not auburn either) so would I go with one full strength henna application or is it possible to get a red tint if I go with say 50/50 henna/cassia and go over it with another say 25/75 blend if the initial effect is too coppery? Basically I'm trying to understand if adding cassia to henna is likely to keep it in the orange part of the colour spectrum or can it still veer into red with progressive applications (which is more attractive to me, I'm trying to keep the colour from going dark so going with a gradual approach feels like I'm retaining some control over the depth of the resulting shade). I hope this makes some sense, I'm starting to confuse myself trying to articulate it. Thanks so much! ETA And oh god ignore my profile pic, my hair has long since moved on from that red.

  2. #322
    Henna Seeress Nightshade's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaoria View Post
    Nightshade, can I bother you for some advice on a cassia / henna blend? I'm trying to get a Titian red (not orange but not auburn either) so would I go with one full strength henna application or is it possible to get a red tint if I go with say 50/50 henna/cassia and go over it with another say 25/75 blend if the initial effect is too coppery? Basically I'm trying to understand if adding cassia to henna is likely to keep it in the orange part of the colour spectrum or can it still veer into red with progressive applications (which is more attractive to me, I'm trying to keep the colour from going dark so going with a gradual approach feels like I'm retaining some control over the depth of the resulting shade). I hope this makes some sense, I'm starting to confuse myself trying to articulate it. Thanks so much! ETA And oh god ignore my profile pic, my hair has long since moved on from that red.
    You're no bother at all And I'm glad you mentioned your profile pic! I was just going to ask about that.

    So, yes to everything you said You can start off with 50/50 (I use 35% henna, 65% cassia and other herbs) and then layer it up as needed. I wouldn't worry too much about overlap and darkening because I only do my roots and I easily get mud on the first 1-3 inches every time I do them. That means I'm overlapping for 3-6 months of growth at a go, but as you can see in my pics the color is uniform all the way down the length

    My suggestion would be to start with something around my ratio, and then if that's too light, either do it again, or do it again with a bump up to 50/50. Once you hit your preferred shade, do roots only from there on out!

  3. #323
    Member Kaoria's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Thanks so much Nightshade, really appreciate it! So full steam ahead with a 35/65 ratio and then let’s see where that gets me! Now if only my cassia shows up, I’ve got my henna released, frozen and ready to go but the cassia is taking its own sweet time in the postal system ��

  4. #324

    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Hi, I hope I am not too pedantic but I would like to ask about a few things about henna/cassia mix. Nightshade kindly gave me her advice to try 35/65 (henna/cassia). I was just wondering about a few things. My hair reaches the middle of my back and is on the thicker side, how much of the powder do I need? The second question is that if I have a few white hair, is this ratio enough to cover them? What I mean is I presume henna covers the white hair but if it is too dilluted it might do nothing to my white hair? The last question is about the whole process of preparation. Is it the same as with henna meaning that I mix both powders, add hot water (does the temperature differ?), whatever (like lemon etc) and let it sit? How long is the optimal time? How long should I let it sit on my hair? This is all basic stuff but I am new to the cassia mix so I am not sure if I can do the same as with henna only. Normally, I would let is sit overnight and then on my hair like 4-6 hours if I remember correctly. I know it's stupid but I want to be sure I am doing it correctly. Thank you!

  5. #325
    Henna Seeress Nightshade's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Faraniel View Post
    Hi, I hope I am not too pedantic but I would like to ask about a few things about henna/cassia mix. Nightshade kindly gave me her advice to try 35/65 (henna/cassia). I was just wondering about a few things. My hair reaches the middle of my back and is on the thicker side, how much of the powder do I need?
    That depends on the thickness of your hair, but I'd think 200g with some leftovers to freeze to touch up your roots.


    Quote Originally Posted by Faraniel View Post
    The second question is that if I have a few white hair, is this ratio enough to cover them? What I mean is I presume henna covers the white hair but if it is too dilluted it might do nothing to my white hair?
    I have white hair and it does cover them They are very light and bright compared to my brown hair, a new-penny copper compared to the darker copper of the rest of my hair. Because herbal colors only add pigment, the base color matters a lot. This means that your whites are always going to take an herbal color as a brighter, more vibrant, and lighter version of the same color applied to darker hair. The comparison I give a lot is like drawing a line with an orange marker across a white piece of paper onto a light brown one. It's the same color being applied, but it's going to show up differently based on what it's applied to.



    Quote Originally Posted by Faraniel View Post
    The last question is about the whole process of preparation. Is it the same as with henna meaning that I mix both powders, add hot water (does the temperature differ?), whatever (like lemon etc) and let it sit? How long is the optimal time? How long should I let it sit on my hair? This is all basic stuff but I am new to the cassia mix so I am not sure if I can do the same as with henna only. Normally, I would let is sit overnight and then on my hair like 4-6 hours if I remember correctly. I know it's stupid but I want to be sure I am doing it correctly. Thank you!
    It's not stupid at all I treat all my hair color mixes the same, from straight henna to the cassia blends, and dye releasing with a hot liquid (no lemon needed), letting it dye release for 4 hours, then applying it for 3-4 hours works well for all of them, including the ones with cassia.

  6. #326
    Member Kaoria's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    So Nightshade what I was planning on doing when my cassia gets here today was to mix the cassia with warm water and then mix it straightaway with my already dye released henna (currently in the freezer). Since I’m not after any colour from the cassia but more of a diluting effect on the henna would you say that could still work? I would allow it to sit for 4 hours but I won’t have 4 hours (I will be already tight on time and today is the only day I can spare the hours needed for henna application).

  7. #327

    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    So, I've been trying to lighten my henna for a while this year in an effort to spend less time on it and make it look more natural/one color.

    Before:



    After:



    It is lighter but I'm feeling pretty uninspired with my hair these days and I think it is worse than before in terms of being a bunch of colors. You can see my light blonde roots growing out--they always make me look like I'm graying or going bald. To counter the demarcation line, and to have lighter red hair, I started leaving my henna on for only ~3 hours strictly on the roots (I make a bunch of tiny buns, cover them in plastic/rubber bands and then apply a more watery henna mixture with a squeeze tip bottle). I don't feel like the color sticks very well this way. But I'm using just henna and room temp chamomile tea and water, like I always have--left to dye release at room temp for at least 12 hours then put in the freezer, then unfrozen and applied. I previously was mixing my henna pretty thick, developing it the same, and doing all-over applications that I left on for 7 hours.

    Besides the grow out being such a different color, I just got tired of having henna in my hair that long (the weight of it with saran wrap always gave me a terrible migraine). The repeated applications of henna over a three year period made it burgundy. It was starting to look *very* unnatural in photos with my skin color, to the point where I felt like I was veering into the "will my employer mind" category. The ends were burgundy with so many applications and the hair about five inches to the roots was an orange/red color, the roots that only had one layer of henna were pretty orange.

    I've lightened the ends with sun-in, which works well but is so gradual that it requires too much hair drying that causes me to lose hair (my pony tail size is already so thin).

    I miss the hair conditioning properties of all over henna--it made my hair thicker and shiny and strong. Just doing the roots for the past eight months has left my hair looking so limp. I have very fine, thin hair that I try so hard to curl and make look like it has body. The henna really helped, as you can see from the first photo (also had just brushed out).

    I guess I don't have a specific question. Just sharing my progress. My goal is to have hair that is a consistent color overall, but it is tough with such fine and colorless hair to begin with.

    Any thoughts about sedr vs cassia for hair thickening? Is sedr worth the expense over cassia?

  8. #328

    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Sorry--I realized I might be in the wrong thread because I don't mix my henna with cassia anymore, but I am trying to lighten up my hair and would be interested in thoughts from women with light blonde hair trying to get a red/coppery tone that isn't overly yellow, who find that cassia works for them. I'm having a hard time getting the color to stick when not keeping it on my head very long.

  9. #329
    Henna Seeress Nightshade's Avatar
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    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaoria View Post
    So Nightshade what I was planning on doing when my cassia gets here today was to mix the cassia with warm water and then mix it straightaway with my already dye released henna (currently in the freezer). Since I’m not after any colour from the cassia but more of a diluting effect on the henna would you say that could still work? I would allow it to sit for 4 hours but I won’t have 4 hours (I will be already tight on time and today is the only day I can spare the hours needed for henna application).
    Sounds like a good plan to me! Since the henna is already dye released, just mix up the cassia with steaming water, blend the muds together, and apply



    Quote Originally Posted by captainjanuary View Post
    Any thoughts about sedr vs cassia for hair thickening? Is sedr worth the expense over cassia?
    The two have totally different conditioning properties. You can read the long version here, but the short version is:

    Sedr- The leaves of this plant have a permeable waxy coating to help retain moisture. It is the fatty acids and secondary alcohols of this epicuticular wax that gives Sedr its conditioning and cleansing benefits. As such, it will wear off over time and needs to be refreshed every 4-8 weeks.

    Senna– The conditioning properties and golden color come from Chrysophanic acid. The tannins and chrysophanic acid in senna also have anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. Needs to be refreshed every 4-8 weeks.

    Henna– There are two steps in the conditioning properties of henna. The first is the lawsone molecule, which binds to the keratin in hair and permanently makes makes hair red-orange, stronger and thicker. Also a desert plant, henna leaves a permeable coating on hair similar to that of Sedr’s. This coating fills in rough spots on the cuticle and helps reduce damage from outside sources such as combing and styling. This permeable coating, however, fades after 4-8 weeks.

    So the Chrysophanic acid of cassia/senna has no thickening properties to speak of. Most of henna's thickening properties are from the plant wax-coating, which fades in time. Sedr also produces a similar desert plant-wax, and I would say it's most similar to henna in regards to thickening.

  10. #330

    Default Re: The henna/cassia thread

    Thank you! Would it be a problem if I leave it sit to release over night? The thing is, I prefer to apply it early because my hair takes time to dry.

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