Originally Posted by
Panth
1) Cones are not the devil. Also, not all cones are the same.
2) When people talk about "sealing" it is not an all or nothing phenomenon - it means it impedes the movement of water in/out, not prevents it completely.
3) Cones do impart many useful qualities, e.g. anti-static, pro-slip, anti-tangle. They can also (temporarily) patch repair damage.
Amodimethicone is often considered one of the better ones. It is not water soluble (I made that mistake too). However, it is often grouped with water-soluble cones as, like them, it resists build-up. Luxepiggy has given you a great description of how this works.
IMO, the crusade against cones is totally unfounded - they do not trash your hair, it's just like any other thing that some people's hair likes them and some people's hair doesn't. They can hide damage, but this is only problematic if it enables you to ignore the fact that you are destroying your hair (i.e. not good if it makes you think daily flat ironing is fine until the day it isn't ... fine if it's hiding the inevitable damage seen on 6+ year old ends and thus making them more resilient and manageable). The only problem with them is the requirement with some (i.e. the non-water-soluble ones) to use sulphate-containing shampoos to prevent build-up, as SLS etc. is harsh and can cause damage when you're talking on the timescale of super-long hair. However, even that problem is removed if you either a) use cones sensibly, b) primarily select water-soluble or non-building-up cones, and c) reduce the harshness of your shampoo (e.g. use sulphates but dilute them, or use sulphate-free but clarify with sulphates occasionally, or use sulphate-free containing cocoamidopropyl betaine, which can remove cones but is much less harsh than SLS/SLES/ALS/ALES).
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