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sunnydays
June 29th, 2011, 08:07 AM
Do you always used 40vol with 12% bleach or can you have 3% bleach with 40vol, how does it work? And what job does that actual developer do?

Missa
June 29th, 2011, 08:14 AM
Hello,

Well my first question is what are you trying to achieve with the bleach? What your starting colour and how many shades lighter do you need to go? What kind of condition is your hair in?

There are 2 kinds of bleach. One cannot touch your scalp and one is scalp friendly. Developers mix with the bleach to open the cuticle of your hair so the bleach can get in and remove the colour molecules.

10 volume Developer will only allow colour to be deposited and is used for semi permanent colour
20 volume Developer will allow you to go 2 shades darker or lighter
30 volume 3 shades darker or lighter
40 volume 4 shades darker or lighter

If you only want to go a shade or 2 lighter you can do a bleach bath. This is where you mix your bleach and developer and then add shampoo and lather you hair with it.

Remember bleach will continue to work after 40 minutes on your hair unlike colour which has an end time so make sure you do a strand test

Hope this helps

kittymallow
June 29th, 2011, 10:51 AM
OH my.. as a hairdresser i NEVER EVER use 12% on ANYBODY! you just get a more yellow hairtone and more damaged hair by using a higher %/vol in bleach. if you use 3% or 6% you can sit a bit longer, have healthier hair, AND get a whiter/clearer blonde. i cant even imagine what would have happened to my norwegian fine hair if i as much as touched it with 12% :O

it is actually better for the hair to bleach 2 times with 3 % than one time with 12%.. seriously why is the 12% even invented! sorry that was my opinion and what i learned at the hairdressing school:)

sunnydays
June 29th, 2011, 11:12 AM
I am not trying to do anything I am trying to work out what my hair dresser did, she used 40vol bleach i remember her saying, which yes i did get a yellowish tone and some that were pure white was not nice at all.

Thanks for the responses above but still can you use a 3% bleach with 40vol? or does 40vol always go with 12%?

PrincessBlondie
June 29th, 2011, 11:32 AM
OH my.. as a hairdresser i NEVER EVER use 12% on ANYBODY! you just get a more yellow hairtone and more damaged hair by using a higher %/vol in bleach. if you use 3% or 6% you can sit a bit longer, have healthier hair, AND get a whiter/clearer blonde. i cant even imagine what would have happened to my norwegian fine hair if i as much as touched it with 12% :O

it is actually better for the hair to bleach 2 times with 3 % than one time with 12%.. seriously why is the 12% even invented! sorry that was my opinion and what i learned at the hairdressing school:)

Totally agree with your post! I think its old school of thought that use 12% (40 vol) with bleach. It pulls too many yellow/golden tones.

I am level 5 (orange undertone) naturally, and I get alot less orange/yellow when hairdresser uses 6% (20 vol) and soft bleach (Paul Mitchell Lighten up for scalp apps-not full bleach). But my hairdresser this time left it on for 60 mins, rather than the usual 40 mins. Hence my "damaged" stretchy hair at the roots section. I always just get my roots done....

oktobergoud
June 29th, 2011, 11:39 AM
Do you always used 40vol with 12% bleach or can you have 3% bleach with 40vol, how does it work? And what job does that actual developer do?

I think what you mean is the percentage of peroxide? 40 vol = 12% 30 vol = 9% 20 vol = 6% and 10 vol = 3%!

When I bleached my hair (platinum!) I always used 9%, but definitely not more! It depends on how light your hair is and what you want to achieve, but the lower the vol, the better, of course (when it comes to damage!) :)
And I heard it's better to use a low vol and leave it on longer than using, for instance, 40 vol and leave it on for just a short amount of time!
Also, the vol = the developer, what it does? Lifting! Bleach is just.. bleach, there's no stronger bleach or anything, bleach is just bleach. It's the developer that will make it stronger and thus lift better. Of course bleach does lift as well, but only when mixed with developer :)

kittymallow
June 29th, 2011, 12:57 PM
I am not trying to do anything I am trying to work out what my hair dresser did, she used 40vol bleach i remember her saying, which yes i did get a yellowish tone and some that were pure white was not nice at all.

Thanks for the responses above but still can you use a 3% bleach with 40vol? or does 40vol always go with 12%?

the bleach has no vol. the bleach (powder) is only what you blend the developer/peroxide with and it is the developer/peroxide that has a vol/%
so peroxide 40vol = peroxide 12%

usally when a hairdresser blends her bleach she uses 1:2 measurement. so she takes one part bleach powder and two parts peroxide.
I use a little more bleach powder and the mix gets a bit thicker, but that way i can lighten more wit a low %. so if i have a customer that easy becomes a little yellow i do this.
one part blue bleaching powder
1,5 part 6% /20 vol peroxide.

hope you understan me:)

kittymallow
June 29th, 2011, 01:00 PM
I think what you mean is the percentage of peroxide? 40 vol = 12% 30 vol = 9% 20 vol = 6% and 10 vol = 3%!

When I bleached my hair (platinum!) I always used 9%, but definitely not more! It depends on how light your hair is and what you want to achieve, but the lower the vol, the better, of course (when it comes to damage!) :)
And I heard it's better to use a low vol and leave it on longer than using, for instance, 40 vol and leave it on for just a short amount of time!
Also, the vol = the developer, what it does? Lifting! Bleach is just.. bleach, there's no stronger bleach or anything, bleach is just bleach. It's the developer that will make it stronger and thus lift better. Of course bleach does lift as well, but only when mixed with developer :)

actually te leach powder lightsup pretty much just blended with water/shampo. or if i get bleach dust on my clothing the spots turns after the next wash ;P so if i have gotten a nasty stainedcolor on my blonde air i just mix up some bleach powder in some shampoo and leaves it on my hair fr 5 minutes, and voila, nice blonde hair again:)

sunnydays
June 30th, 2011, 10:01 AM
the bleach has no vol. the bleach (powder) is only what you blend the developer/peroxide with and it is the developer/peroxide that has a vol/%
so peroxide 40vol = peroxide 12%

usally when a hairdresser blends her bleach she uses 1:2 measurement. so she takes one part bleach powder and two parts peroxide.
I use a little more bleach powder and the mix gets a bit thicker, but that way i can lighten more wit a low %. so if i have a customer that easy becomes a little yellow i do this.
one part blue bleaching powder
1,5 part 6% /20 vol peroxide.

hope you understan me:)

My hair is about a medium brown withblonde highlight underneath which are starting to show through the brown now :) which i like makes it look quite natural and sun kissed, if i wanted to go blonde, would say getting gradual highlights using 30vol lift it? As I found 40vol was horrible, really dried my hair out and made it like white, not what i wanted

kittymallow
June 30th, 2011, 03:28 PM
My hair is about a medium brown withblonde highlight underneath which are starting to show through the brown now :) which i like makes it look quite natural and sun kissed, if i wanted to go blonde, would say getting gradual highlights using 30vol lift it? As I found 40vol was horrible, really dried my hair out and made it like white, not what i wanted


i would rather used 20vol, and sit a little bit longer, and tone the colour with some purple/silver shampoo if there is any yellow left:) muc nicer for your hair:)

oktobergoud
June 30th, 2011, 04:51 PM
actually te leach powder lightsup pretty much just blended with water/shampo. or if i get bleach dust on my clothing the spots turns after the next wash ;P so if i have gotten a nasty stainedcolor on my blonde air i just mix up some bleach powder in some shampoo and leaves it on my hair fr 5 minutes, and voila, nice blonde hair again:)

Oooh really? I guess it won't be that strong though? I do sometimes use the soap cap technique but that's still with some peroxide :)
I never had spots from the powder (combined with water) though, but I have heard it from other people before, about it mixed with water... maybe I'll try it out soon!

sunnydays
July 1st, 2011, 02:59 AM
i would rather used 20vol, and sit a little bit longer, and tone the colour with some purple/silver shampoo if there is any yellow left:) muc nicer for your hair:)

They used 20vol before and it went ORANGE, but saying that my hair was nearly black, was absolutly awful, I looked like a witch and so pale even though I have olive skin, it completly drowned me of any colour