Speculative Cultural Anthropology

[misstwist]

That may not be exactly what this is, but I like the way it sounds. :D

Anyhoo, I have a theory.

So this layered look that is so popular, the one with all the layers visible on the outside that flick up and generally start around chin length or a little longer. . .I think that became popular as a cut in salon chairs because many long-haired celebrities are wearing hair extensions.

That is, because their own hair is shorter, adding extensions makes a hairstyle that has that short layer then the longer length. And a few layers are added in between the two levels to make the whole thing look more intentional.

Thus a way of dealing with a problem of extensions becomes a hair fashion trend.

Agree? Disagree? Further theories about this or other hairstyles and/or trends?

I think we need to open a virtual bottle of wine and maybe make a cosmo or two and thoroughly discuss this.

Talk amongst yourselves while I find the corkscrew. :p

[ravenreed]

I don't pay enough attention to celebrities to know if this is a valid theory or not, but it certainly sounds possible.

[eezepeeze]

I agree! I think the retro fashion trend lately has made long wavy hair more desirable as trendsetters in Hollywood seek a more feminine ideal. To that end, they have gotten extensions, something the average woman does not have at her disposal. So, to emulate Hollywood, the average woman lets her hair grow a little longer and gets the flippy layers cut in, or keeps it shorter with the chin length flippy layers.

Fashions are definitely more feminine right now, more in keeping with the late 40s and early 50s. And, oddly enough, with the early 80s. Fashion is so cyclical and it also follows the economy. It's been shown that the better the economy is doing, the higher the hemlines of skirts go, and the worse it's doing the longer they get. You can see this in the shift from the shorter styles of the 20s flappers moving to the longer styles of the 30s. You can also see it in today's maxi dresses. I've often wondered if the same holds true for hair.

If we examine the 20th century, we can see that hairstyles got progressively shorter until the Great Depression, when they moved back down to the shoulders or beyond. Then, through the 50s they got shorter again, only to get longer in the 60s-early 80's. In the 90s and 00s, bobs were quite popular, as well as asymettrical cuts (ala Kate Gosselin). It seems in the 2010s longer styles are prevailing so far. I can't think of a major trendsetting star that has hair shorter than shoulder length.

What does everyone else have to say? I love this topic! Can you tell I was a sociology major? :-)

[Bene]

If the hairstyle you're describing is the same one I'm thinking about, I think it became popular back in the day with Farrah Fawcett in Charlie's Angels I think. Late 70's, long before the recent hair extension boom in current trends. I just think the hairstyle a comeback.

[princessp]

I don't pay much attention to stars either, but it sounds like a plausible theory-- I'll buy it!

[Roseate]

If the hairstyle you're describing is the same one I'm thinking about, I think it became popular back in the day with Farrah Fawcett in Charlie's Angels I think. Late 70's, long before the recent hair extension boom in current trends. I just think the hairstyle a comeback.

That's what I was thinking; the first heavily-layered shag haircuts were definitely a 70's style. So I don't think the style was exactly invented to accommodate extensions, but they could be making a comeback in part because they are so easy to add extensions to.

[misstwist]

See, I thought about the Farrah Fawcett winged hair, but that was much more of a long shag. I'm just talking about these long layers. Maybe describing them as flicking up was the wrong way to talk about them.

As to 40s and 50s fashions coming back because they are more feminine I'm not entirely sure I would describe 1940s fashions as feminine, though 1950 fashions in the form of Dior's New Look and those it influenced were a conscious return to traditional femininity.

I think the hair certainly was, even as the government was promoting cutting your hair for safety in war work, but the clothes were "manly."

Women were moving out into "men's work" and rationing affected how much fabric could be used in new clothes. Clothes tended to the tailored and practical with military uniform influence and shoulder pads.

Many of the same cultural influences were present in the 1980s. Women were moving increasingly into the workplace in professional jobs beyond nurse or teacher or secretary. Dress for Success did literally tell women that they had to dress like men to be taken seriously as professionals.

I think 1980s fashion trends recalled the 1940s because that was also a time when women encroached on "men's work."


So, can I get you a martini or a g&t or will you be sticking with the cosmo?

[BeccaAngel]

i only look at celebrity hair for details, like damaged, healthy, coloured, long, short or whatever. i dont follow what they do by trying to have hair like theirs but i look at it.

[Toadstool]

Do you mean the neo-mullets that are popular these days? If so, then I think your theory is great!

[Igor]

Many of the same cultural influences were present in the 1980s. Women were moving increasingly into the workplace in professional jobs beyond nurse or teacher or secretary. Dress for Success did literally tell women that they had to dress like men to be taken seriously as professionals.


I strongly disagree on this. I also find it offensive that people have the idea that men are suppressing women and dictating how they’re supposed to look in the workplace.
Ask any man how he likes that he absolutely has to be cleanly shaven, wearing shirt and a tie and freshly pressed dark pants to be taken seriously in the workplace?
Its not about men pressuring women into dressing like men. Its about looking clean, professional and successful. That goes for both sexes. So does the “dress for success” rules.

[dropinthebucket]

Many of the same cultural influences were present in the 1980s. Women were moving increasingly into the workplace in professional jobs beyond nurse or teacher or secretary. Dress for Success did literally tell women that they had to dress like men to be taken seriously as professionals.


LOL - I immediately thought of that scene in Working Girl where Tess asks her friend to cut her long, blonde hair so she'll look "more professional." The friend grabs a pair of scissors and just whacks it off straight at jaw length. The next scene, Tess (Melanie Griffiths), now sporting elaborate, short curled hair, walks into a bar to meet a client. They never fill in how we get from the friend's clearly horrific cutting job to the polished, professional Tess who meets (Harrison Ford - forget his character's name) in the bar. :D

[Roseate]

LOL - I immediately thought of that scene in Working Girl where Tess asks her friend to cut her long, blonde hair so she'll look "more professional." The friend grabs a pair of scissors and just whacks it off straight at jaw length. The next scene, Tess (Melanie Griffiths), now sporting elaborate, short curled hair, walks into a bar to meet a client. They never fill in how we get from the friend's clearly horrific cutting job to the polished, professional Tess who meets (Harrison Ford - forget his character's name) in the bar. :D

I love this movie-haircut trick! I recently saw "I am Love" with Tilda Swinton, and in one scene she's hacking off her hair with no mirror in a remote area in the hills, in the next scene she's sporting a sharp A-line cut. Does Vidal Sassoon live in the next villa? :D

[eezepeeze]

In the 40s, during the war, women's fashions were more streamliined and "manly", not only because women were entering the workforce, but also because of fabric rationing. After the war, in the late 40s, the lines softened and the look became much less severe. Think Donna Reed in "It's a Wonderful Life".

It's true that professional women in the 80s were encouraged to wear suits similar to men's to seem more professional, but since the OP focused on Hollywood and extensions, I guess my mind went more toward casual fashion outside of the workplace. Watching re-runs of game shows from that time shows softer lines in the clothing the contestants wore. Shoulders were drooped (opposite of the padded powersuit in the workplace), skirts were flowy, and blouses were, well, blousy.

What all this has to do with the state of extensions in today's popular hairstyles, I'm not quite sure, but fashion history, the effect it has on pop culture and the way it portrays a society's values at a given time are fascinating.

[sarahbrownie]

To each generation their own. I want to say in my generation that the layering "Rachael" cut was all the rage back in the 90s. Everyone had that cut and I still see it all the time. It's a classic. Besides, it is very complementary to the face with all those framing layers.

[orbiting]

I strongly disagree on this. I also find it offensive that people have the idea that men are suppressing women and dictating how they’re supposed to look in the workplace.
Ask any man how he likes that he absolutely has to be cleanly shaven, wearing shirt and a tie and freshly pressed dark pants to be taken seriously in the workplace?
Its not about men pressuring women into dressing like men. Its about looking clean, professional and successful. That goes for both sexes. So does the “dress for success” rules.

Um. Actually? They do. Have you not heard of the Glass Ceiling?

Also - Take a look at 80's women's "Business" fashions. Large squared off shoulders (formed with shoulder pads), more women wearing slacks, and the big floppy "bow tie" look are all women's fashions which purposely emulate men. Also, as women moved into the professional work place, shorter hair cuts became more fashionable. While a buzz cut on a woman was never acceptable (and still isn't), shorter hair styles were seen as more professional -- haven't we all on this very board complained about how women are seen as more "adult" and "professional" with short hair?

The whole concept of "looking clean" is a smoke screen to hide sexist rules behind the idea of looking professional. Even as low as retail, women are dressed in traditional men's fashions (khakis and polo shirt, tucked in, with a belt, anyone?). Furthermore, more often, women in the work place are held to a much higher standard than men when it comes to looks. There have been studies upon studies that "attractive" women move up faster in the work place. Often, these "attractive women" wear extremely masculine styles, with an added "feminine" edge (a pin stripe suit, with a short skirt).

Also -- A man does not need to be "clean shaven" in the work place in order to be considered presentable.

Anecdotally - In "business casual" work places, I find the women have to dress a lot more business, and a lot less casual, while the men are allowed to dress very casual.

[Igor]

Um. Actually? They do. Have you not heard of the Glass Ceiling?
Of course. But presenting this term like a fact doesn’t make it one.


Also - Take a look at 80's women's "Business" fashions. Large squared off shoulders (formed with shoulder pads), more women wearing slacks, and the big floppy "bow tie" look are all women's fashions which purposely emulate men. Also, as women moved into the professional work place, shorter hair cuts became more fashionable. While a buzz cut on a woman was never acceptable (and still isn't), shorter hair styles were seen as more professional -- haven't we all on this very board complained about how women are seen as more "adult" and "professional" with short hair?
Following that logic that women need to dress exactly like men, no woman should have been hired or promoted for work anywhere since the 80s then?
What came first? The shoulder pad in the regular 80s fashion or the shoulder pads in 80s business fashion?
Is the common fashion, where women supposedly dress for fun on their time off also a result of male sexism then? Because all these have been trends and fashion outside the workplace too.


The whole concept of "looking clean" is a smoke screen to hide sexist rules behind the idea of looking professional. Even as low as retail, women are dressed in traditional men's fashions (khakis and polo shirt, tucked in, with a belt, anyone?). Furthermore, more often, women in the work place are held to a much higher standard than men when it comes to looks. There have been studies upon studies that "attractive" women move up faster in the work place. Often, these "attractive women" wear extremely masculine styles, with an added "feminine" edge (a pin stripe suit, with a short skirt).
That is some very strong statements about how small minded, repressing and shallow men are according to you. Have it ever occurred to you that women also hold women up to standards? Or is everything you dress or wear because men suppress you?


Also -- A man does not need to be "clean shaven" in the work place in order to be considered presentable.
And we have all, on this board or not, heard men complain that they are not being seen as “mature” or professional when they are not clean shaven and have short hair.


Anecdotally - In "business casual" work places, I find the women have to dress a lot more business, and a lot less casual, while the men are allowed to dress very casual.
And if you look around, just on this forum, you will find a lot of stories of men being judged on their looks. And very harshly so. They are called metalheads, being avoided, being assumed employed or rapists, asked what cult they belong to, given lengthy Bible lectures etc etc just for something like their hair.

How many times women have complained about men not noticing the way they dress or if they did something to their hair? The standard male doesn’t notice these things. Women can be true suppressers with harsh cattiness and snide remarks and holding other women down. Then we can all blame that Y-chromosome and the glass ceiling.

[orbiting]

Is the common fashion, where women supposedly dress for fun on their time off also a result of male sexism then? Because all these have been trends and fashion outside the workplace too.
You mean, short skirts, cleavage and middriff baring shirts and high heels? Yes, those are all fashions created by men.

While I'm wildly happy for you, that you have managed to never, ever be the victim of sexism, I find it completely abhorrent of you to act like it doesn't even exist. And even worse, to point the finger at women. I also find it hilarious of you to champion men in one sentence, then basically say they're oblivious idiots in the next.

Maybe they do things differently where you're from, but here in the United States, women are subject to vast amounts of sexism, even today. The Old Boys Club still exists, and is alive and thriving. Women are paid vastly lower wages than men, and are held to much higher standards across the board.

Anyway - I'm done. I quite frankly refuse to argue with someone who can't or won't admit that sexism is real, exists and is still in place today...

[Igor]

Anyway - I'm done. I quite frankly refuse to argue with someone who can't or won't admit that sexism is real, exists and is still in place today...

Alright then, I wont have to waste more time trying to pry a “But…?” into the concrete of your adamant statements that everything and anything is men’s fault :shrug:

[orbiting]

That's right. I'm an evil horrible feminist who hates men. RAWRRRRR!!!

Uh. No. Actually, I'm not... But I think it's fallacy to say that sexism doesn't exist...

[Igor]

That's right. I'm an evil horrible feminist who hates men. RAWRRRRR!!!

Uh. No. Actually, I'm not... But I think it's fallacy to say that sexism doesn't exist...

Which I didn’t.

[Bene]

That's right. I'm an evil horrible feminist who hates men. RAWRRRRR!!!

Uh. No. Actually, I'm not... But I think it's fallacy to say that sexism doesn't exist...


I don't think Igor was saying that sexism doesn't exist. I think she was pointing out that it's silly to automatically assume it's about sexism. There are other factors that go into the decisions women make about personal appearance.


For example. The short skirt thing. A lot of men were actually opposed to that. WOMEN made the decision to go shorter. It could be that they did so to try to attract men, but there was no symposium held by men to determine that skirts should go shorter.

[Igor]

I don't think Igor was saying that sexism doesn't exist. I think she was pointing out that it's silly to automatically assume it's about sexism. There are other factors that go into the decisions women make about personal appearance.


For example. The short skirt thing. A lot of men were actually opposed to that. WOMEN made the decision to go shorter. It could be that they did so to try to attract men, but there was no symposium held by men to determine that skirts should go shorter.

Thank you kindly Bene :flowers: I really don’t think I can express any clearer by now that I think its unfair to blame all problems women have and all the choices we make on men being evil suppressors

[sibiryachka]

I find myself wondering a lot about the correlation between economic/social conditions and hairstyles. I honestly can't tell whether it's just that I see long hair everywhere now, or whether it truly is having a "fashion moment" these days. It certainly seems to me that more people are rocking BSL-or-longer hair, both IRL and on TV.
I also notice way more longhairs in places like WalMart and our local flea market. This has led me to speculate that, the less disposable income people have, the less money they can spend at salons, so letting the hair grow out could be at least in part a money-saving strategy.
The point raised above about longer hair coming back into fashion during the Depression in the 1930s makes me think I may be onto something.

[MsBubbles]

I completely agree with the OPs flicky-spirally-ends theory! At least these days you wouldn't have to heat-style your ends into submission (sizzle, burn, pop), you could throw in some extensions for the night.

I'd like to propose the theory (well I've already proposed it here before) that the ombre look is a backlash trend to the perfect Rachel highlights of the 90s and 2000s. It's the 'I don't highlight my hair' look. The 'these roots are so grown-out it has to be real' look.

[Unofficial_Rose]

Um. Actually? They do. Have you not heard of the Glass Ceiling?

Also - Take a look at 80's women's "Business" fashions. Large squared off shoulders (formed with shoulder pads), more women wearing slacks, and the big floppy "bow tie" look are all women's fashions which purposely emulate men. Also, as women moved into the professional work place, shorter hair cuts became more fashionable. While a buzz cut on a woman was never acceptable (and still isn't), shorter hair styles were seen as more professional -- haven't we all on this very board complained about how women are seen as more "adult" and "professional" with short hair?

The whole concept of "looking clean" is a smoke screen to hide sexist rules behind the idea of looking professional. Even as low as retail, women are dressed in traditional men's fashions (khakis and polo shirt, tucked in, with a belt, anyone?). Furthermore, more often, women in the work place are held to a much higher standard than men when it comes to looks. There have been studies upon studies that "attractive" women move up faster in the work place. Often, these "attractive women" wear extremely masculine styles, with an added "feminine" edge (a pin stripe suit, with a short skirt).



I worked as an accountant in the 80's, and I have to agree with what you've said here. If you couldn't actually be a man, it was better to look and behave as much like one as possible. A FOF who worked in a law firm in the 80's and had long, curly red hair was also advised to cut it short. Oh, how I remember those skirt suits :(

Nowadays I work in IT for digital media co's - everyone wears jeans and tshirts - men and women. The men outnumber the women 4 to 1 and the women tend to have to be better-looking than the men, on the whole. I would also feel uncomfortable dressing too girly in such an environment, because yes, you would not be taken seriously. If I do a contract in the financial industry, the 80's rules seem to apply, except we wear smart trousers and jacket instead of skirt suits. That's just my experience though, and I'm in the UK.

But this is a side issue from the thread! Being middle-aged, I can remember layered hairstyles before extensions were invented. :)

[Sinisiew]

Thank you kindly Bene :flowers: I really don’t think I can express any clearer by now that I think its unfair to blame all problems women have and all the choices we make on men being evil suppressors

I agree. Categorizing "men" as a homogen group is no less sexist than categorizing "women" in the same way. There's a vast difference between saying that "men" oppress women, and saying that we have a cultural norm that dictates that men and women belong to different categories, not just physically but emotionally and functionally.
That's the problem with gender specific norms, they are stifling no matter which sex you belong to.