why/when do you clarify?

[trinc]

Before LHC I didn't know hair would need clarifying.. I learn every day :)

I switched to ecological, SLS and silicone-free shampoo and conditioner in the beginning of this year. I also started doing heavy oilings, leaving an oil to my head for overnight. at first my hair was much better than before, but as time went on, it kind of became flat and lost volume. It was then when I understood finally I needed clarifying! before that I thought that clarifying is only needed with silicones.

I added baking soda to shampoo and afterwards followed with ACV rinse. and it worked! I gained my volume back!

But now I want to know more - how do you know you need to clarify? do you see that you lose volume and hair becomes flat against the head, and then you decide to clarify? or are there any other signs to watch out? how often do you clarify and how?

[SummerRuby]

My hair is kinky, so you may get different signs, but my scalp is very sensitive, so I clarify when my scalp gets itchy and has a feeling of gunky build-up on it. Since my hair has so much volume (lol), it doesn't get limp, so I just pay attention to my scalp and any signs of build-up on my hair/scalp and clarify as needed. If you want a general rule, I think it's good clarify monthly to bi-monthly. Now, my hair is very different from your hair, so YMMV. HTH.

[ktani]

I do not clarify as such. In the past I have just stopped using anything that has made my hair flatter, drier or not react the way it normally does with my using a shampoo that I know does not build-up and catnip. The product eventually washes out.

In the past my hair would get drier, progressively more difficult to handle, tangle or look dull. Build-up usually happens slowly. Clarifying is a quick fix but it can require more than one shampoo or application of baking soda from reports, and usually results in the hair needing deep conditioning afterward.

Products that build-up are the standard conventional styling products, conditioner waxes, polymers, natural coating and penetrating oils when over used, butters etc. Anything that cannot be easily removed with one shampoo, constitutes a product that can build-up over time.

Some natural oils like sunflower oil (http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/ware/oele/sonnenbl/sonnenbl.htm), flax seed oil (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil) and walnut oil are drying oils, that leave a coating on the hair that hardens when exposed to oxygen. This kind of coating is harder to remove than non-drying oils like coconut oil (http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/ware/oele/kokosoel/kokosoel.htm), olive oil, and mineral oil.

[trinc]

oh, I've used flaxseed oil a lot! that explains!

I'm also amused that hair will go dry when buildup occurs. couldn't have thought of that. my hair was VERY dry.

I bought a deep cleaning shampoo and I guess I'll do another cleaning - as you said ktani that it may take a few ones to get rid of buildup.

[ktani]

oh, I've used flaxseed oil a lot! that explains!

I'm also amused that hair will go dry when buildup occurs. couldn't have thought of that. my hair was VERY dry.

I bought a deep cleaning shampoo and I guess I'll do another cleaning - as you said ktani that it may take a few ones to get rid of buildup.

While oils do not completely seal out moisture (moisture vapour can still penetrate them), when an oil builds-up, less moisture will be able to get into the hair and the result can be dryness.

[In2wishin]

I generally do a clarifying once a month as a matter of course. I use Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea butter clarifying shampoo since it is really rich and adds moisture back while it clarifys.

[ktani]

It really depends on what is being used, how much of it is used, and how often it is being used, with regard to how frequently one can need to clarify.

[Henrietta]

How? With Avon Advance Techniques clarifying shampoo, old version, unavailable in cataloque (light green one).

Why? and how ;) I don't feel any obvious signs of build up. My hair doesn't start to be flat or greasy... As ktani said, build-up happens slowly, probably that's why I cannot tell the difference from day to day. I clarify at the beginning/end of every season, so it;s four times a year. Then I do deep oil treatment. It works better on just clarified hair I think and thanks to this my hair isn't dry. I am almost sure that there are some ingredients in my products that can cause build up, though I am cone free. That's why.

[ktani]

Oils are classified as drying, semi-drying and non-drying by their iodine value (http://www.seatons-uk.co.uk/home.aspx?d=content&s=62&r=109&p=507). Ranges vary in different sources as to the exact classification for semi-drying and drying oils.

One can look up an oil by iodine value or simply Google the name of the oil and drying, semi-drying or non-drying oil.

Castor oil (http://www.aseanfood.info/articles/11016258.pdf) can be a non-drying, semi-drying or drying oil depending on how it is processed and which iodine value range is used to classify it as semi-drying or drying.

Build-up can take different forms. Dryness is only one form. Silicone is far from the only ingredient in a product that can build-up and it depends on the formulation and the silicone properties (http://www.dowcorning.com/content/discover/discoverchem/si-rheology.aspx). "Viscosity has relatively little effect on the chemical properties of a silicone fluid, but it does affect flow behavior and solubility."

The shampoo I use contains dimethiconol. There are different molecular weights, viscosities and types of dimethiconol. I use Sunsilk Lively Blonde Shampoo and it does not build-up. I have used it for years with 0 problems and it has washed out coatings when I have experimented with different products including conditioners, very well over time.

[virgo75]

I clarify when my ends get tangley and snap when detangled. They also can feel rough while the rest of my hair is smooth.
That usually lets me know that I have buildup and my hair is getting dry from it.

I clarify by using a clarifying shampoo(usually V05 cuz it's cheap), then doing an SMT.
As Ktani said, it can take multiple applications to actually get rid of the buildup. Depending on the product I used and how long I used it, it can take a week or 2 of clarifying once or twice each week, followed by regular shampoo and a light conditioner to get my hair back to "normal."

Even when I don't use cones, I can get buildup from a lot of different things - shea butter, castor oil, wheatgerm oil, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose is a nightmare for my hair(probably because it has 2 things that build up on me - wheatgerm oil & shea butter), sunflower oil, walnut oil, glycerine heavy products seem to have the same effect on my hair as well, Garnier Triple Nutrition Conditoner does the same thing Aubrey's does, hemp oil(Nature's Gate Hemp Conditioner), protein heavy products buildup too so I can't use most hair gels even though my hair is curly. That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

Ironically, I don't think I've ever had buildup from cones. :shrug:

[ktani]

What surprises me is that some "clarifying" shampoos also contain natural ingredients that can build-up, limiting the clarifying properties of the product.

Add to that the marketing hype that a product "will not build-up" when it is loaded with waxes or polymers and will build-up and it can be very confusing.

It is about formulation though, so the only way to be sure is to try a product, after carefully reading the label. Results should tell one whether a product is working well for the purpose it is intended.

Shampoos for normal hair with few ingredients can work as well as stronger shampoos called clarifying shampoos, and be more hair friendly.

[McFearless]

What surprises me is that some "clarifying" shampoos also contain natural ingredients that can build-up, limiting the clarifying properties of the product.

Add to that the marketing hype that a product "will not build-up" when it is loaded with waxes or polymers and will build-up and it can be very confusing.

It is about formulation though, so the only way to be sure is to try a product, after carefully reading the label. Results should tell one whether a product is working well for the purpose it is intended.

Shampoos for normal hair with few ingredients can work as well as stronger shampoos called clarifying shampoos, and be more hair friendly.


You are blowing my mind right now with all this info! Its very helpful. Is it possible to remove buildup from coconut or olive oil without SLS?

[ktani]

You are blowing my mind right now with all this info! Its very helpful. Is it possible to remove buildup from coconut or olive oil without SLS?

You are most welcome and the answer is yes. You can do the same with SLES, which is milder. ETA: Some non sulfate shampoos can be harsher than sodium laureth sulfate. Try a non sulfate clarifying shampoos without additives or a non sulfate shampoo for normal hair without additives, and see how your hair feels.

[Deborah]

I never clarify, as my hair does not seem to need it. Probably it's because I don't use anything that builds up on the hair. I keep it really simple.

[McFearless]

You are most welcome and the answer is yes. You can do the same with SLES, which is milder. ETA: Some non sulfate shampoos can be harsher than sodium laureth sulfate. Try a non sulfate clarifying shampoos without additives or a non sulfate shampoo for normal hair without additives, and see how your hair feels.

Will do. Thank you!

[ktani]

Will do. Thank you!

You are most welcome!

[MandyBeth]

Without my cone leave in, don't clarify. I need to chelate at times, but that is another issue on it's own.

[ktani]

Many clarifying shampoos also chelate. Sometimes more chelating is needed. Not all clarifying shampoos chelate. And it depends on what is being chelated and why it is being chelated.

Coconut and argan oils (http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2009/11/part-1-of-3-part-series-on-innovative.html) chelate iron and copper. EDTA will chelate metal salts and is not specific for copper (http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B75C9-49N3806-4&_user=10&_coverDate=02%2F28%2F1983&_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_orig=search&_origin=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1466266175&_rerunOrigin=google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=5d05f0694ce04c1ac9e4d704bb4a0bed&searchtype=a), "Dissolution of native zinc and copper was least with EDTA". A vinegar rinse will not chelate metal salts. It will help remove calcium build-up though. I clean my sink and tub with it, mixed with liquid soap.

[Deelight]

I read all this and think I it would really be helpful to have a degree in chemistry in order to properly take care of my hair!

[ktani]

I read all this and think I it would really be helpful to have a degree in chemistry in order to properly take care of my hair!

That is not necessary, lol. It just helps if one understands how things actually work to be able to cut through all of the marketing hype.

[KittyLost]

I clarify when my hair starts to only last one or two days before washing, if it gets greasy quickly, to rid of any build-up.

[trinc]

Many clarifying shampoos also chelate. Sometimes more chelating is needed. Not all clarifying shampoos chelate. And it depends on what is being chelated and why it is being chelated.

Coconut and argan oils (http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2009/11/part-1-of-3-part-series-on-innovative.html) chelate iron and copper. EDTA will chelate metal salts and is not specific for copper (http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B75C9-49N3806-4&_user=10&_coverDate=02%2F28%2F1983&_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_orig=search&_origin=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1454810390&_rerunOrigin=google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=ee3f9389829a0b143dd01c4dd53fd93c&searchtype=a), "Dissolution of native zinc and copper was least with EDTA". A vinegar rinse will not chelate metal salts. It will help remove calcium build-up though. I clean my sink and tub with it, mixed with liquid soap.

what does "chelate" mean? I didn't find it in dictionary, and English is not my native language.

[ktani]

what does "chelate" mean? I didn't find it in dictionary, and English is not my native language.

I posted a simplified explanation of chelate here, http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/showpost.php?p=968073&postcount=71

[MandyBeth]

I have to eventually chelate due to chlorine. SLS works for a while but doesn't quite get it all out, so got to get the chelating shampoo out. Usually every 4 months till summer then every 6 to 8 weeks. My hair doesn't feel unhappy after.

[ktani]

I have to eventually chelate due to chlorine. SLS works for a while but doesn't quite get it all out, so got to get the chelating shampoo out. Usually every 4 months till summer then every 6 to 8 weeks. My hair doesn't feel unhappy after.

Club soda can also neutralize chlorine, http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/vbjournal.php?do=article&articleid=115.

[MandyBeth]

I've tried club soda. It's ok, but when I do water pt, not much works. Think it's from daily high chlorine amount.

[ktani]

I've tried club soda. It's ok, but when I do water pt, not much works. Think it's from daily high chlorine amount.

What is "water pt"? Please

ETA: If it is "post treatment", you could always follow the club soda with distilled water.

[Chestershire]

Oh, I have a question, and I really hope someone can help me.
I have silicone free everything, but i do use a serum, maybe two times a week
I clarify once a week with a SLS shampoo. Is that too often? Because I'd really like the condition of my hair to be better. I also saw a shampoo that contains only Sodium Coceth Sulfate, which is a semi synthetic sulfate, thus isn't as harsh as SLS. But will it be enough to wash out the silicones, every once a week? I do am planning to clarify it then once a month with the old SLS shampoo.
I really hope someone can help me, it's keeping me up at night. :D

[MandyBeth]

PT is physical therapy. The water there is really potent, high chlorine and warm to hot water which seems to make my hair slurp up more chlorine.

[ktani]

PT is physical therapy. The water there is really potent, high chlorine and warm to hot water which seems to make my hair slurp up more chlorine.

Thank you for the clarification.

Warm to hot water does help open the hair cuticles more, so I get that your hair would absorb more chlorine. If you rinse your hair there, you could use the club soda and take some distilled water with you to rinse it out or wait until you got home to rinse it out.

Club soda is both hair friendly and harmless to hair. Leaving it in for a while should not create a problem. I do not think the amount of citric acid in mariika's recipe would be able to neutralize chlorine as well as the club soda. It is too diluted.

[MandyBeth]

Didn't work before, but I can try it with no cones or waxes on my hair.

[ktani]

Didn't work before, but I can try it with no cones or waxes on my hair.

That may make the difference. Any coating that can build-up prevents things from accessing the hair as well as they can otherwise.

[ktani]

Oh, I have a question, and I really hope someone can help me.
I have silicone free everything, but i do use a serum, maybe two times a week
I clarify once a week with a SLS shampoo. Is that too often? Because I'd really like the condition of my hair to be better. I also saw a shampoo that contains only Sodium Coceth Sulfate, which is a semi synthetic sulfate, thus isn't as harsh as SLS. But will it be enough to wash out the silicones, every once a week? I do am planning to clarify it then once a month with the old SLS shampoo.
I really hope someone can help me, it's keeping me up at night. :D

SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) is milder than SLS and can accomplish the same thing. It depends on how much serum you are using as to how often you need to clarify. See how your hair feels and possibly use less serum.

It depends as well on why you are using silicone. There are other options for shine and frizz control, like a very small amount of mineral oil (http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/showthread.php?t=54861) for shine, which can be easier to remove than silicone (not all silicones build-up), and there is mariika's recipe (http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2010/08/another-cost-effective-innovation-by.html) for great frizz control.

[Chestershire]

I use serum because it makes my hair (look?) much better. Also, I like it to have a little bit of silicones in my hair, I'm not a complete cone-free person, I just want to protect my a hair a little with a minimal amount of cones.
Thanks for responding :)

[ktani]

I use serum because it makes my hair (look?) much better. Also, I like it to have a little bit of silicones in my hair, I'm not a complete cone-free person, I just want to protect my a hair a little with a minimal amount of cones.
Thanks for responding :)

You are most welcome!

With a minimal amount of cones you should not need to clarify that often. It depends on how your hair is reacting. There may be other ingredients in your products that are causing a problem.

[Daniella123]

I oil my hair, shampoo with an herbal shampoo and then acv rinse. no need to clarify if you don't use cones or conditioner

[ktani]

I oil my hair, shampoo with an herbal shampoo and then acv rinse. no need to clarify if you don't use cones or conditioner

True if the herbal shampoo does not build up. More and more shampoos these days have waxy ingredients, oils, butters, and polymers added to them that can build-up. It depends on the shampoo.

[Kristin]

I don't use SLS or clarifying shampoos unless absolutely necessary (like after I henna). I CO most days, but still use a shampoo containing ALS once a week. I tried to go two weeks without shampoo, but my hair started to feel kind of waxy.

When I do use the SLS shampoo it is because my hair feels dry, tangles more than usual, or just clumps together. I use VO5 Kiwi Lime and deep condition afterward.