PDA

View Full Version : Shea butter: two kinds



Idun
June 12th, 2010, 03:53 AM
Did you know there are two kinds of shea butter derived from two different varieties of the tree? Apparently the eastern kind (Vitellaria nilotica) is produced only in Uganda and Sudan and is softer, melts at a lower temperature, has a higher absorbtion rate and smells less strongly than the western kind (Vitellaria Paradoxa), that is produced in Ghana among others.

Did any of you try both varieties, and did you experience the claimed superiority of eastern shea butter?

(I did not find a thread about this, but if there is one already, please let me know :))

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 04:45 AM
Did you know there are two kinds of shea butter derived from two different varieties of the tree? Apparently the eastern kind (Vitellaria nilotica) is produced only in Uganda and Sudan and is softer, melts at a lower temperature, has a higher absorbtion rate and smells less strongly than the western kind (Vitellaria Paradoxa), that is produced in Ghana among others.

Did any of you try both varieties, and did you experience the claimed superiority of eastern shea butter?

(I did not find a thread about this, but if there is one already, please let me know :))
I've tried both and I prefer the shea nilotica. It smells like vanilla (although I'm quite sure this is because it's been macerated with vanilla) and is softer than the western kind. The main difference between the two seems to be the higher content of oleic acid and lower content of stearic acid in the nilotica.
The nilotica is lighter on my skin and feels less waxy than the western shea. I like both kinds, but for different reasons.

Idun
June 12th, 2010, 05:31 AM
Thank you Gulbahar! I just ordered some shea nilotica to use both on skin and hair. I have never tried pure shea before, so that was perhaps a good choice.

I read the shea paradoxa contains more vitamin A and is better if you want to use it on scars. Perhaps this variety is also better for protecting skin (and hair?) during winter?

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 05:44 AM
Thank you Gulbahar! I just ordered some shea nilotica to use both on skin and hair. I have never tried pure shea before, so that was perhaps a good choice.

I read the shea paradoxa contains more vitamin A and is better if you want to use it on scars. Perhaps this variety is also better for protecting skin (and hair?) during winter?
The western shea contains more vitamin E than the nilotica. I don't know about vitamin A. For protection I definitely find the western kind much better because it leaves more of a film on my skin. Generally speaking the western type is my winter shea and the nilotica is my summer shea. ;)

Silver & Gold
June 12th, 2010, 07:13 AM
I would love to hear from all of you the brands of shea butter you purchase. I've only tried one brand and it doesn't state what kind of shea butter they use.

Thanks!

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 07:47 AM
I would love to hear from all of you the brands of shea butter you purchase. I've only tried one brand and it doesn't state what kind of shea butter they use.

Thanks!
I don't buy "brands", I just buy the raw material because I make my own (and my mother's) cosmetics and soaps.
If your brand doesn't state the exact kind it most certainly is the western shea - the nilotica is more expensive.

Silver & Gold
June 12th, 2010, 07:55 AM
I don't buy "brands", I just buy the raw material because I make my own (and my mother's) cosmetics and soaps.
If your brand doesn't state the exact kind it most certainly is the western shea - the nilotica is more expensive.

What is your source for buying the raw shea butter? I guess I worded my inquiry incorrectly. I was wondering where people purchased their unrefined shea butter. I wasn't looking for a brand so much as a source.

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 08:48 AM
What is your source for buying the raw shea butter? I guess I worded my inquiry incorrectly. I was wondering where people purchased their unrefined shea butter. I wasn't looking for a brand so much as a source.
I think Garden of Wisdom would be a good place to buy both kinds of shea. But as I live in Europe I obviously use other shops and don't know much about the US sellers. I'm sure there are plenty more.

ButterCream
June 12th, 2010, 08:56 AM
I am going to try this shea thingy, and I will be ordering from Coastals scents!
They are using Fair Trade shea, so I want to support that.

I have ordered micas and brushes from there, and I am super happy with them.
And they ship quick too, it only take a wheek and a half to get my stuff shipped to Norway:D

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 09:00 AM
I am going to try this shea thingy, and I will be ordering from Coastals scents!
They are using Fair Trade shea, so I want to support that.

Fair Trade is definitely a good thing, but Coastal scents has only the western variant.

Idun
June 12th, 2010, 09:42 AM
I orderd from Garden of Wisdom (http://www.gardenofwisdom.com/home.html)based in US. I wanted to get some hydrolyzed keratin aswell, that´s why I went there. Afterwords I found this company, Fresholi (http://www.fresholi.co.uk/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1) in UK. There are probably many others.

Idun
June 12th, 2010, 09:47 AM
The western shea contains more vitamin E than the nilotica. I don't know about vitamin A. For protection I definitely find the western kind much better because it leaves more of a film on my skin. Generally speaking the western type is my winter shea and the nilotica is my summer shea. ;)

Thanks. That makes sense. According to several websites shea butter is "a natural vitamin A cream" in addition to having a lot of vitamin E. Also they state that western shea has more sterols. It is however somewhat difficult to find reliable info, as most websites promote their own products...

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 10:38 AM
Thanks. That makes sense. According to several websites shea butter is "a natural vitamin A cream" in addition to having a lot of vitamin E. Also they state that western shea has more sterols. It is however somewhat difficult to find reliable info, as most websites promote their own products...
On this (non-commercial) website (http://www.olionatura.de/_oele/index.php?id=22&menue=p-t) you can find a very thorough description, comparing both types of shea butter - only it's in German. But I'm sure you can understand the basics, especially the technical terms.

kwaniesiam
June 12th, 2010, 10:42 AM
I orderd from Garden of Wisdom (http://www.gardenofwisdom.com/home.html)based in US. I wanted to get some hydrolyzed keratin aswell, that´s why I went there. Afterwords I found this company, Fresholi (http://www.fresholi.co.uk/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1) in UK. There are probably many others.

Thanks for the link! I just ordered 4 oz. of both East and West shea butter. I'll be doing a write up comparing them when they both arrive :)

Silver & Gold
June 12th, 2010, 10:49 AM
I think Garden of Wisdom would be a good place to buy both kinds of shea. But as I live in Europe I obviously use other shops and don't know much about the US sellers. I'm sure there are plenty more.


Thanks for the help. Online ordering can be a bit of a hit and miss thing. It's nice to know of a company that somebody has already had a good experience with.

Idun
June 12th, 2010, 12:56 PM
On this (non-commercial) website (http://www.olionatura.de/_oele/index.php?id=22&menue=p-t) you can find a very thorough description, comparing both types of shea butter - only it's in German. But I'm sure you can understand the basics, especially the technical terms.

Thanks! :blossom: They sure didn´t say much about vitamin A :). But they do mention it briefly at the bottom, listing core ingredients.

if I understand it correctly they say one of the differences between the two varieties is that because of the much higher content of tocopherols (Vit. E) in West African shea it has a shelf life of appr. 24 months, whereas East African Shea might go rancid after 12. - Better not order large quantities then!

I´m not sure if I got that part about contamination. They say because of traditional production methods the "native" butters can have a lot of contamination? - And that this is a known problem with cupacu butter? (incidently, I ordered some cupacu too to try on skin :))

Gulbahar, would you agree EA shea (Nilotica) would be a better choice for a nourishing and softening hair treatment (and for the scalp perhaps?), while WA shea (Paradoxa) might be the best choice for say a protective leave-in? :stirpot:

(The article referenced another page in english, The Vitellaria database (http://www.prokarite.org/vitellaria-dbase-EN/index-EN.html).)

Gulbahar
June 12th, 2010, 01:06 PM
I´m not sure if I got that part about contamination. They say because of traditional production methods the "native" butters can have a lot of contamination? - And that this is a known problem with cupacu butter? (incidently, I ordered some cupacu too to try on skin :))
Yes, apparently this is a huge problem especially with organic/fair trade products because of the very traditional production methods. They use water to extract the butter - and every tiny bit of water that stays in the butter after the process is finished can cause the product to get mouldy.

Gulbahar, would you agree EA shea (Nilotica) would be a better choice for a nourishing and softening hair treatment (and for the scalp perhaps?), while WA shea (Paradoxa) might be the best choice for say a protective leave-in? :stirpot:I haven't tried nilotica on hair yet, but I guess you are right.

bugeyedmonster2
June 12th, 2010, 09:05 PM
Thanks for the link! I just ordered 4 oz. of both East and West shea butter. I'll be doing a write up comparing them when they both arrive :)


Thanks for doing the write up! (Even though you haven't done it yet.) I would be interested in hearing the differences.

(^_^)/
BEM

jackie75
June 12th, 2010, 09:30 PM
Interesting. I didn't know there where two different kinds. I got unrefined Ghana Shea butter a while ago, & I was really turned off by the latex/rubber band smell. :( Even though I mixed it with coconut oil & EO's, it was just terrible.

Idun
June 13th, 2010, 02:09 AM
Thanks for the link! I just ordered 4 oz. of both East and West shea butter. I'll be doing a write up comparing them when they both arrive :)

Yes, that will be interesting! Looking forward to it!

I think I will try WA shea from Sheabutter Cottage (http://www.akuawood.co.uk/) for comparison. I have seen it recommended elsewhere on this forum. - And the shop is in the UK.

akevita2002
June 13th, 2010, 03:21 AM
Hmmm...After I got my shea butter and wasn't pleased very much with the effects, I did some research and came to this video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9XzMd2AJu8 where the lady explains that shea butter is the ivory colored one and african butter is the yellowish one. I think she also sais from where they are extracted, I can't recall and now I can't watch the video. Of course, what I purchased was yellow, so it's not shea butter actually.

Are these the 2 types of 'shea butter', or there is african butter and 2 types of shea butter?

Idun
June 13th, 2010, 03:35 AM
I know there is something called Kpangan butter (http://www.agbangakarite.com/whole_kpangan.php) that is sometimes sold as "golden shea butter".

ETA: I think that is what she is talking about in the video. It is not shea at all, but a different butter from a different tree.

ETA: more info on Kpangan butter (http://www.agbangakarite.com/info_goldenshea.php) from the same site.

ETA:
Kpangnan Butter (http://www.edensong.com/skin-care-ingredient-glossary.htm)
Although often referred to as golden shea, it is quite different. A unique characteristic of kpangnan is the unexpected high fraction of stigmasterol, which is an unsaturated plant sterol usually found in plant fats like calabar bean, soybean oil, rape seed and cocoa butter. Stigmasterol is used as a starting material in the manufacture of synthetic progesterone but has other interesting properties as well. Some research shows stigmasterol can lower the risk of certain cancers, including ovarian cancer. Extracts of stigmasterol have also been found to be effective topical anti-inflammatory agents. Kpangnan is a bright, clear yellow with a smooth feel and adds silkiness to creams and lotions.

ETA: What is the difference between shea butter & kpangnan (http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/1984385)?

ktani
June 13th, 2010, 06:20 AM
Here is more information on Pentadesma butyracea Sab "Common names English: butter; butter tree; tallow; tallow tree; candle tree; candle butter tree; black mango tree. Air-dried seeds carry 32–42% of solid fat which can be extracted by pounding and cooking. It varies from pale to dark brown, is almost tasteless and has a pleasant smell. It is edible and resembles to some extent shea butter (Vitellaria paradoxa Gaertn., Sapotaceae), and has the advantage of being free from any bitter latex, and it does not turn rancid. It is used for cooking and is made into unguent for skin and hair; .... Composition is: 53.6% oleic acid, 45.2% stearic acid, 1.2% palmitic acid, with an assortment of ammo acids."
http://www.aluka.org/action/showMetadata?doi=10.5555/AL.AP.UPWTA.2_837&pgs=&cookieSet=1

Interesting shea butter website on the 2 varieties
"... two main varieties of Shea Nut called Vitellaria Paradoxa and Vitellaria Nilotica. Vitellaria Paradoxa is produced in West Africa where as Vitellaria Nilotica is produced only in Northern Uganda and Southern Sudan. Unfortunately these areas (Northern Uganda and Southern Sudan), both are currently states of civil unrest and so generally this variety is not available in the market. ... Shea butter Uganda has some significant advantages over the common variety [ The West African Shea Butter (Vitellaria Paradoxa)] in composition and applications like SHEA BUTTER UGANDA is very soft in texture and it melts very smoothly on the body of human being where as the other variety west African shea butter, has to be rubbed with hand to create frictional heat, and melt it first, before applying on the body."
http://www.sheabutteruganda.com/aboutsheabutter.htm

"Application Of Shea Butter Uganda
... best recommendation is to apply a day before shampooing your hair. Apply shea butter on to the scalp and massage it nicely for 5 to 10 minutes only. Wrap your hair in warm towel for 10 to 15 minutes and wash them with soap or shampoos with warm water. If you shampoo your hair next day you get the best results. Now dry your hair and after 10 to 15 minutes again apply shea butter on to the hair to bring brightness and life to it. Hair will be very soft and silky. Application of shea butter on to the scalp also reduces dandruff and enhances natural, healthy growth."
http://www.sheabutteruganda.com/application.htm

This is from 2002
"Market and Technical Survey: Shea Nuts
Supply
Shea nut supply far outstrips demand. Over 600,000 MTs of the dominant variety, Vitellaria paradoxa, is produced in West Africa ... Most is used as a cooking oil or as a butter for the skin and hair locally. The other variety, Vitellaria nilotica, has a superior quality which is preferred by the cosmetics firms (see excerpts from a shea nut technical report produced by Fintrac in Annex A). Unfortunately this variety is primarily grown and processed in northern Uganda and southern Sudan, both currently states of civil unrest, and so it is generally unavailable on the market."
http://www.unctad.org/infocomm/francais/karite/Docs/world3.pdf

From 2010
"PHYSICO-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF SHEA BUTTER (Vitellaria paradoxa C.F. Gaertn.) OIL FROM THE SHEA DISTRICTS OF UGANDA
The eastern sub species Vitellaria paradoxa sp. nilotica occurs in Ethiopia, Southern Sudan and Uganda ..."
http://www.ajfand.net/Issue31/PDFs/Okullo3340.pdf

virgo75
June 13th, 2010, 07:18 AM
Interesting. I didn't know there where two different kinds. I got unrefined Ghana Shea butter a while ago, & I was really turned off by the latex/rubber band smell. :( Even though I mixed it with coconut oil & EO's, it was just terrible.


I've bought shea butter(both yellow and off white) repeatedly hoping for some miracle, but the smell is just..... :shake:

I guess it is kind of rubber band(y), but there's also some sort of orange smell in a way? Either way penetrates through any other scent it's paired with and makes me sick. Thankfully, it doesn't seem to do much for me so I guess I can stop trying now.

Edited to add: I think the scent of shea butter is part of the reason why I can't use AO Honeysuckle Rose. Even though it's highly fragranced, all I can smell is shea butter and it makes me feel dizzy and sick. :(

ktani
June 13th, 2010, 07:23 AM
I've bought shea butter(both yellow and off white) repeatedly hoping for some miracle, but the smell is just..... :shake:

I guess it is kind of rubber band(y), but there's also some sort of orange smell in a way? Either way penetrates through any other scent it's paired with and makes me sick. Thankfully, it doesn't seem to do much for me so I guess I can stop trying now.

Edited to add: I think the scent of shea butter is part of the reason why I can't use AO Honeysuckle Rose. Even though it's highly fragranced, all I can smell is shea butter and it makes me feel dizzy and sick. :(

That is both the interesting and frustrating thing with plants/trees/herbs. There are always varieties and different species, common name confusion and differences in characteristics and constituents to some degree or a large degree. Search under the latin name of a species, to get a truer picture of what one is about.

melikai
June 13th, 2010, 04:01 PM
Interesting! I didn't know there were two different kinds of shea butter. I purchased some a while back which said it was unrefined, but was confused because it was very pale coloured and softer than the unrefined shea butter I'd been used to. Now I know that it's the Nilotica one! :)

Idun
June 14th, 2010, 02:32 AM
Thank you for all the info ktani! :blossom:

I´m looking forward to trying shea, but I am worried about the smell. Beeing really sensitive to smells I hope I won´t hate it too much! I hate using coconut oil for this reason. Glad I ordered the kind that is supposed to have less odour.

It seems from what I read that paradoxa shea is more varied in quality than the nilotica. There is a larger production and many different suppliers, and the properties of the shea varies a lot after which region it´s produced.

Kind of funny and interesting piece that talks about contamination and the trade (it´s from 2005 though): Shea Butter - What-all is the big deal? (http://www.tnj.com/archives/2005/march_april2005/africa_focus.php)

Idun
June 14th, 2010, 02:36 AM
Interesting! I didn't know there were two different kinds of shea butter. I purchased some a while back which said it was unrefined, but was confused because it was very pale coloured and softer than the unrefined shea butter I'd been used to. Now I know that it's the Nilotica one! :)

Did you notice any other differences between the two types, I mean other than the texture and colour?

Gulbahar
June 14th, 2010, 03:01 AM
Interesting! I didn't know there were two different kinds of shea butter. I purchased some a while back which said it was unrefined, but was confused because it was very pale coloured and softer than the unrefined shea butter I'd been used to. Now I know that it's the Nilotica one! :)
I wouldn't be too sure about that. Shea nilotica is much more expensive than the other one and it would be bad marketing not to point out that a product contains this unusual, exotic type of shea.
The colour and texture even within the western shea varies quite a bit. From almost white to greyish to yellowish - everything possible depending on the region and the way of extracting the butter.

rach
June 14th, 2010, 03:46 AM
Didn't know there were two types. I find in my mix the melting points can be annoying at times but i find it alone too heavy to put on alone.

my favorite mix is -
2 part Aubrey Organic HoneySuckle Rose conditioner
1 part shea butter
1 part coconut oil (which give the mixture some movement)

Which makes a light cream mixture after i put it in the food blender.

which was inspired from the foxes shea butter thread which i appear to be failing to find on the search tool :ponder:
my hair absorbs it butifully and makes it really silky feeling and i live on this mixture :crush:

Alone shea butter is also great for the skin too :D

Idun
June 14th, 2010, 04:10 AM
which was inspired from the foxes shea butter thread which i appear to be failing to find on the search tool :ponder:

It´s in the sticky thread on top of the page ;)

Fox's Shea Butter Conditioning Cream (http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/showthread.php?t=4586)

rach
June 14th, 2010, 04:14 AM
It´s in the sticky thread on top of the page ;)

:smooch: Thankyou

virgo75
June 14th, 2010, 05:40 AM
Did you notice any other differences between the two types, I mean other than the texture and colour?


I know you didn't ask me, but I figured I'd share my own experience until they respond. :)

The yellow one was harder and I had to melt it down to mix it. It had a less pungent odor and sat on top of hair and skin like a hard oil(almost hard wax) for the most part. I couldn't use it straight and had to mix it with evoo to make it easier to use. Even then it mostly just made my skin oily.

The off white one was much softer and I was able to soften it further by mixing it in the tub I bought it in with a butter knife. I stabbed it to make holes then smooshed the knife around in it. With this consistancy I was able to make it creamier and it had what most people are used to as a "butter" consistancy. I could use it directly on hair and skin and it seemed to sink in better. It worked better at making both my skin and hair softer and left a healthy sheen on both. But the scent was much stronger and it lasted all day. Sometimes until I washed it off.

If I remember correctly, the small container of yellow butter costed more than the larger container of off white butter. I was able to buy them both locally - I live in a major city with a lot of immigrants.

Hope that helps. :flower:

melikai
June 15th, 2010, 05:37 PM
Did you notice any other differences between the two types, I mean other than the texture and colour?

The smell of the Vitellaria Paradoxa was a bit stronger, and it stays much more solid than the Nilotica - all the same things that you read, but I didn't really think the smell of the Paradoxa shea was offensively pungent or anything.

The Nilotica one is nice as it's easier to spread and seems lighter, but you could melt the paradoxa to make it more spreadable.


I wouldn't be too sure about that. Shea nilotica is much more expensive than the other one and it would be bad marketing not to point out that a product contains this unusual, exotic type of shea.
The colour and texture even within the western shea varies quite a bit. From almost white to greyish to yellowish - everything possible depending on the region and the way of extracting the butter.

Yeah, except that after I found this out I went to the website where I ordered it from and it says in the details "Vitellaria nilotica". :) Serbian companies are full of bad marketing! :p

Gulbahar
June 16th, 2010, 01:07 AM
Yeah, except that after I found this out I went to the website where I ordered it from and it says in the details "Vitellaria nilotica". :) Serbian companies are full of bad marketing! :p
Hey, that's great then! :D

Idun
June 17th, 2010, 09:58 AM
I know you didn't ask me, but I figured I'd share my own experience until they respond. :)

The yellow one was harder and I had to melt it down to mix it. It had a less pungent odor and sat on top of hair and skin like a hard oil(almost hard wax) for the most part. I couldn't use it straight and had to mix it with evoo to make it easier to use. Even then it mostly just made my skin oily.

The off white one was much softer and I was able to soften it further by mixing it in the tub I bought it in with a butter knife. I stabbed it to make holes then smooshed the knife around in it. With this consistancy I was able to make it creamier and it had what most people are used to as a "butter" consistancy. I could use it directly on hair and skin and it seemed to sink in better. It worked better at making both my skin and hair softer and left a healthy sheen on both. But the scent was much stronger and it lasted all day. Sometimes until I washed it off.

If I remember correctly, the small container of yellow butter costed more than the larger container of off white butter. I was able to buy them both locally - I live in a major city with a lot of immigrants.

Hope that helps. :flower:

Thank you for answering! It would have been more helpful though if you knew what types of butter "the yellow one" and "the off white one" was. :) It seems a bit odd that the nilotica should smell stronger, don´t you think?

Idun
June 17th, 2010, 10:01 AM
The smell of the Vitellaria Paradoxa was a bit stronger, and it stays much more solid than the Nilotica - all the same things that you read, but I didn't really think the smell of the Paradoxa shea was offensively pungent or anything.

The Nilotica one is nice as it's easier to spread and seems lighter, but you could melt the paradoxa to make it more spreadable.

Thank you melikai! Do you use the butters on hair or skin, or both?

virgo75
June 17th, 2010, 03:20 PM
Thank you for answering! It would have been more helpful though if you knew what types of butter "the yellow one" and "the off white one" was. :) It seems a bit odd that the nilotica should smell stronger, don´t you think?


You're right. :o
I'm sorry, I don't know where they were from as I bought them locally and removed them from their original containers which may have had that information.

I don't know which one is supposed to smell stronger? I just know that the beige/off white one has a stronger scent and the yellow one was less scented but harder. I also don't know which one is supposed to be 'superior' except that the East African is more difficult to get(and more expensive) because of war & violence in the area. I wouldn't be surprised if the East vs. West African Shea Butter prices was just marketing. Not that it's not really harder to obtain, but that it's worth paying twice as much for. Many people will pay more $$ for something that is more elusive and supposed to be better. I would definitely rather pay for unrefined butter vs. refined butter - but I think all natural butters have their benefits so I'm not as concerned about which area it's from and if it's nilotica or the other one.

I can't say which one was from where, but the off white one worked better for me wherever it was from. :shrug:


Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

kwaniesiam
June 19th, 2010, 12:28 PM
My Garden of Wisdom order arrived today. The Eastern shea butter arrived as a liquid, it had all melted since it is so hot out here today. The Western butter was softened but still solid, so I can already tell there is a definite difference between them. I have them both in the fridge right now and will be doing an in depth write up comparing them once I've tried them both out on skin and hair.

kwaniesiam
June 19th, 2010, 02:20 PM
Shea butter comparison:

Vitellaria Paradoxa (West) : Slightly grainy texture, color a very pale yellow. I’ve had other western shea butters before that varied from nearly white to a dark grainy tan. Scent is very rich and nutty. Stronger than the scent of the Eastern butter, but I love the smell of shea butter so take that in to consideration when purchasing. Definitely a firmer texture and harder to melt. It almost has a waxy feel to it and seems to sit on the skin much longer rather than being absorbed.

I would not recommend putting this straight on hair unless you live in a very warm climate or are blending it with other oils that have a lower melting point as this would probably just sit solidly on your hair feeling waxy. It does however feel nice being massaged in to the scalp. This is also great for rough, dry, or cracked skin. DBF has very rough hands from working at FedEx moving boxes all night and western shea butter has worked wonderfully for him in the past. I also use it on my feet at night as a moisturizing treatment by wrapping my feet in plastic wrap and then putting on socks over the butter.

Note: See my album for how much hair I actually have, so ymmv when using this on your own hair ;)

Nilotica (East) : Arrived melted. Put in the fridge for a few hours, it took a very long time to solidify again and remained in a very soft state that resembled chicken fat or emu oil before hardening fully. Has a much lighter, different scent than the western butter. Scent also reminds me of emu oil. Not as rich and nutty, I prefer the natural scent of the west better personally. Definitely have a silkier, softer texture and a far lower melting point. Not at all grainy though that could have been contributed to it being fully liquidized and having to re-harden it. Absorbed very quickly on skin and left feeling very moisturized and soft. This is excellent skin butter; I think I will be using it very much in the summer and fall, as it doesn’t leave that waxy feeling that the west butter does and does not linger, also very spreadable. I have very dry skin, if you’re of a more oily nature this may be too much for you. Too oily for my hair except for maybe a deep oiling. My hair does feel very soft and seems to absorb it decently. I think when I actually have longer hair I will like using this.

East butter has a darker color than my west shea butter that lightened when it fully solidified. East is much more yellow than the west variety. They’re both fairly similar in color but completely different in texture. So far I like both, they just have different uses and properties. I will most likely be using the soft eastern butter in the warmer months when I don’t quite need as much skin protection and the west butter in the winter months when my skin and hair get very dry. I may try melting down the western butter to get rid of the grainy texture or blend some of it with coconut oil to lower its melting point.

Edit: After a few hours I'm noticing that my East shea butter is a thick liquid at room temperature. I hope it is just because it is very warm out because it's far too runny to really be considered a butter.

Idun
June 20th, 2010, 03:58 AM
I don't know which one is supposed to smell stronger? I just know that the beige/off white one has a stronger scent and the yellow one was less scented but harder. I also don't know which one is supposed to be 'superior' except that the East African is more difficult to get(and more expensive) because of war & violence in the area. I wouldn't be surprised if the East vs. West African Shea Butter prices was just marketing. Not that it's not really harder to obtain, but that it's worth paying twice as much for. Many people will pay more $$ for something that is more elusive and supposed to be better. I would definitely rather pay for unrefined butter vs. refined butter - but I think all natural butters have their benefits so I'm not as concerned about which area it's from and if it's nilotica or the other one.

Like you say virgo75, it is likely that the difference in price is caused, to a large extent, by factors other than the quality! And they must ofcourse find a way to justify that in marketing. Still, according to the discriptions the two butter have different properties and it is nice to know what they are from people´s real experiences. I kind of like to know what I buy :).

Idun
June 20th, 2010, 04:32 AM
Thank you so much for your comparison kwaniesiam! :blossom:


Shea butter comparison:

Vitellaria Paradoxa (West) : Slightly grainy texture, color a very pale yellow. I’ve had other western shea butters before that varied from nearly white to a dark grainy tan. Scent is very rich and nutty. Stronger than the scent of the Eastern butter, but I love the smell of shea butter so take that in to consideration when purchasing. Definitely a firmer texture and harder to melt. It almost has a waxy feel to it and seems to sit on the skin much longer rather than being absorbed.

I would not recommend putting this straight on hair unless you live in a very warm climate or are blending it with other oils that have a lower melting point as this would probably just sit solidly on your hair feeling waxy. It does however feel nice being massaged in to the scalp. This is also great for rough, dry, or cracked skin. DBF has very rough hands from working at FedEx moving boxes all night and western shea butter has worked wonderfully for him in the past. I also use it on my feet at night as a moisturizing treatment by wrapping my feet in plastic wrap and then putting on socks over the butter.

Note: See my album for how much hair I actually have, so ymmv when using this on your own hair ;)

I was thinking perhaps the Paradoxa might be good to protect the ends of the hair in winter because of the waxyness? Hmm. Maybe one should still blend them with other oils. Great tip about the feet! My daughter has problem feet, an I am definitely going to try using shea!

Btw, I noticed the Paradoxa was back-ordered from Garden of Wisdom right after you bought it! So I have to get it from somewhere else.


Nilotica (East) : Arrived melted. Put in the fridge for a few hours, it took a very long time to solidify again and remained in a very soft state that resembled chicken fat or emu oil before hardening fully. Has a much lighter, different scent than the western butter. Scent also reminds me of emu oil. Not as rich and nutty, I prefer the natural scent of the west better personally. Definitely have a silkier, softer texture and a far lower melting point. Not at all grainy though that could have been contributed to it being fully liquidized and having to re-harden it. Absorbed very quickly on skin and left feeling very moisturized and soft. This is excellent skin butter; I think I will be using it very much in the summer and fall, as it doesn’t leave that waxy feeling that the west butter does and does not linger, also very spreadable. I have very dry skin, if you’re of a more oily nature this may be too much for you. Too oily for my hair except for maybe a deep oiling. My hair does feel very soft and seems to absorb it decently. I think when I actually have longer hair I will like using this.

East butter has a darker color than my west shea butter that lightened when it fully solidified. East is much more yellow than the west variety. They’re both fairly similar in color but completely different in texture. So far I like both, they just have different uses and properties. I will most likely be using the soft eastern butter in the warmer months when I don’t quite need as much skin protection and the west butter in the winter months when my skin and hair get very dry. I may try melting down the western butter to get rid of the grainy texture or blend some of it with coconut oil to lower its melting point.

Edit: After a few hours I'm noticing that my East shea butter is a thick liquid at room temperature. I hope it is just because it is very warm out because it's far too runny to really be considered a butter.

I don´t have a problem with heat where I live (currently 9 C/48.2 F), so I guess the Nilotica won´t be fluid when it arrives here ;). For some reason I thought the Nilotica would be more white than the Paradoxa? But then, like you say, the colour of the Paradoxa can vary a lot. Maybe the Nilotica varies too?

I´m glad to hear you like it on skin. We clearly fall into the dry-skin category in my family :). I´m so looking forward to try this, - both on skin and hair!

Idun
June 20th, 2010, 04:40 AM
kwaniesiam, after looking in your album I can see how it might be a little difficult for you to judge the effect of shea butter in hair, at this time...:)

Lilelfen1
December 11th, 2013, 07:25 AM
I know only that pure shea is white to ivory. The yellow is actually called African butter, which is not technically shea. Also, some suppliers mix shea with palm oil, which makes it yellow, or colour their shea yellow. Hope this helps :)

Aggie
January 1st, 2018, 01:48 PM
Subbing to read later.