Hair is breaking off, help!

[prittykitty]

Recently this last month I notice that when I comb my hair out when it is dry, there is little pieces about 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/8 inches in the sink, on the floor and on the counter top. I can see at least 20 at one time, all different sizes. I know I have damaged hair from past chemical abuse but is this normal now that I quit straightening, blow drying and have been taking much better care of my hair. I am using biolage shampoo and conditioner hydratherpie and a leave in conditioner, Pumpkin Potion. I also use coconut oil after my hair is dry. Could it be the oil that is doing this or is this a normal process that fried hair goes through? My hair feels much thicker in volume and is growing nice but the breaking off part is what is worrying me. Thanks for any help.

Also I have tried other product and keep getting the same results.

Can using oils on some hair cause it to break off.

[Elenna]

This is not normal. It sounds like your hair has grown out enough so that the chemical and heat damage is more evident. How about a trim and some intensive hair care. You have fine and wavy hair which can be very fragile.

[prittykitty]

How long will it continue to break like this? Will it keep breaking until all the damaged part is gone or is there something I can use to make it stop.

[Juneii]

damaged hair is damaged hair there isn't much you can do to make it not damaged. if the length isn't too much I would just suggest cutting off the damage that way the broken ends won't tangle and hurt the healthy new growth. But for the most part the damaged ends will just break off until it's all gone I think.

[Merkaba]

My hair started to break off when I used 2 things- Naked Naturals Shampoo (has ALOT of protein in it) and a salt water based shampoo meant for dreadlocks. Check the amount of protein in your shampoos and conditioners- if they have none try a deep protein treatment, if they have alot try V05 or other shampoos and conditioners with no protein....also putting Coconut oil on dry hair is not as effective at moisturizing as putting on DAMP hair, in my opinion. Try plucking a normal hair and doing the 'strand test'- it's probably too much or not enough protein, or too much or not enough moisture.

[Pear Martini]

My hair started to break off when I used 2 things- Naked Naturals Shampoo (has ALOT of protein in it) and a salt water based shampoo meant for dreadlocks. Check the amount of protein in your shampoos and conditioners- if they have none try a deep protein treatment, if they have alot try V05 or other shampoos and conditioners with no protein....also putting Coconut oil on dry hair is not as effective at moisturizing as putting on DAMP hair, in my opinion. Try plucking a normal hair and doing the 'strand test'- it's probably too much or not enough protein, or too much or not enough moisture.


How is this done?

[jojo]

sounds like protein overload, what id do is give yourself lots of DC with moisture in them, add maybe some honey or do SMT if your hair likes them. Even keeping off poo and just CO will help.

I have had this problem and have fine hair too, daily light oils to my ends and bunning every day will also help but before doing any of this i suggest a micro trim, you cannot heal damaged hair apart from trimming it off. Fine hair needs loads of moisture I have found, protein is OK in small measures.

[rogue_psyche]

I have chemically treated hair, and pre-LHC I used to heat style sporadically. I am now at the point where I have to start gradually micro trimming away the damage, but I was able to grow for more than six months and get from APL+ to very nearly waist.

I would shelve the Biolage shampoo and use it only when you need a clarifying wash. Biolage shampoos use Sodium Laurel Sulfate, which is overly harsh and drying to be used as a daily shampoo for chemically treated hair. If you live near a Trader Joes, their Spa Nourish shampoo is a much gentler, cheaper shampoo. Its the one I've been using for five months or so to very good results. More widely avaliable but more expensive (but still cheaper than Biolage) are shampoo brands like Avalon Organics, Audrey Organics, Burts Bees, which I see both at Whole Foods and at my local Vons.

I'm not sure about your conditioner as have never used it, but it might not be moisturizing enough (especially after your shampoo). Funnily enough, although Biolage's shampoos are drying, they have some of the better conditioners on the market, if buy the right one for your needs. Their conditioning balm is the most popular one around here, because it doesn't have 'cones and is extremely moisturizing. If you want to save money, Sally's carries a good knockoff of this called GVP Conditioning Balm. This is what I use. They also carry a brand called Biotera which are all Biolage knockoffs.

The best article for anyone, especially those growing out chemically treated hair is called "The Fine Art of Protein and Moisture Balance", located here: http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/278612/the_fine_art_of_protein_and_moisture.html?singlepa ge=true&cat=69http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/278612/the_fine_art_of_protein_and_moisture.html?singlepa ge=true&cat=69. Chemical treatments wear at the protein in your hair, but at the same time can be very brittle, and so being in tune with the protein/moisture balance is key in keeping your hair healthy. This article explains how to do this more than I can, and what works for me may not work for you in this case.

Although there's a lot of things to try, don't change too many things at once. When I was figuring out my regimen, I kept a hair journal, and analyzed the condition of my hair every wash and wrote it down for reference. Read the articles in the Article links at the top of this page, they have a ton of good advice and information, especially Nightshade's article on damaged hair and Kirin and Ursula's Newbie articles.

[piratejenny23]

can you see little white dots on your hair strands?

if so, see how far up they go. this is usually where the little bits of hair break off. you may need to cut slightly above the dots to get rid of the damage.

my hair did this after the one and only time i tried henna.i got a sinkful of broken bits every time i brushed my hair. i ended up cutting my nearly-waist length hair to chin length. :wail:

sorry i don't know how to fix this. but, since the breaking happens when you brush, maybe try a different brush and/or detangler before brushing?

[prittykitty]

Thank you for this information. My hair seems to have protein overload and needs a lot of moisture. Also I have been putting oil on my hair when it is dry instead of while it is damp. I was using this shampoo and conditioner called Pumpkin Potion. They quit selling it and I recently started using the Biolage products again just this last month and using the Pumpkin Potion leave in conditioner with it. I think it's time for a change.

[Bellona]

My hair did this when I was 16 due to serious bleach overload. I was dying my almost waist length hair platinum. I had to cut back to APL to get rid of the damage. I was using biolage products at the time, which is weird. Maybe they have something to do with it?

[Spring]

I agree with Jojo, it sounds like a lot of protein. Im sorry if you've already responded to this, I haven't read through all of the comments. I hope it all works out and you find out what's going on :flower:.

[ericthegreat]

I'm sorry you are going thro this prittykitty. Unfortunately, from all the information you have given me, its seems that the condition of your hair is very dry and quite possibly somewhat damaged. If you have stopped coloring, straightening and blowdrying your hair for say at least 6 months and it is still breaking off in spots at the ends, then it is certainly not in a great condition.

You also mentioned that you are using Biolage shampoo. I would stop using that right away, I'm definitely sure this shampoo contains sodium laureth sulfate. Pretty much all commercial shampoos contain strong detergents. If you have dry or damaged hair especially, standard shampoos will only further dry out your hair. I agree with rogue psyche, find a sulfate free, natural shampoo like Audrey Organics, Jason or Giovanni. You can find these kinds of shampoos at a health food store or at Whole Foods.

Also as jojo mentioned, you may also be suffering from protein overload. Coconut oil actually is very high in protein. Its good for hairtypes that actually like protein. But for hairtypes that don't need so much protein, it can actually make hair harder and eventually more brittle. Try switching to a light oil like jojoba. Hairtypes that are sensitive to protein need much more moisture than they need protein. I know you've said you've tried COing before and you've felt that it didn't work too well for you, but I would really recommend that you try COing again. Try COing with V05 conditioners or Suave Natural conditioners, these contain no silicones.

Edit: I also want to add that since your hair is currently breaking at the ends for whichever of the reasons mentioned above, your best way to fight that is to cut off at least a full inch right now. Get a an all over blunt trim. Also, whenever you have free time do your own S&D trimming. Take off any split ends that you see. You need to cut off as much damage as you can find, its really the only way to start growing healthy long hair. :)

[piratejenny23]

Coconut oil actually is very high in protein. Its good for hairtypes that actually like protein. But for hairtypes that don't need so much protein, it can actually make hair harder and eventually more brittle. Try switching to a light oil like jojoba.

i would just like to respectfully add a quick correction, but no oils contain protein; they are all 100% fat. coconut meat and milk contain protein, fiber, carbs, etc, but the oil does not.

coconut oil is, however, one of the best oils at helping the hair retain protein. so i'm not trying to contradict ericthegreat's point--protein-sensitive hair may not react well to coconut oil, but it's not because of any protein in the oil itself.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12715094

[jojo]

I know coconut oil has been the main life saver in stopping my normally very splitty hair from splitting, though not everybody's hair likes coconut oil and I think in my opinion that like poos and condish's hair builds a tolarence to them and after a bit products which previously worked well on hair, actually start to do the opposite.

This being the main reason I swab my condish and poos around, the same could be true in regards to oils. I recently tried olive oil and whereas previously my hair only liked it on the ends, now it really soaked it in all over.

So rather than blaming one product, look at all your products and hair regimes, although you state CO washing was not for you, try it again. Hair needs change all the time, mine included. Another option is soapnuts, my hair really loved these and I didnt need conditioner with these. I must hunt them out and go again with these for a bit!

ETA- read ktani catnip posts too, she has had excellent results with combating splits with this and has the research evidence to back up her claims. I am sure many LHC members have had great results, thank to Ktani's hard work and time spent researching this. I have tried them and it conditioned my hair great, I just got lazy and would rather grab for a bottle of ready made.

[prittykitty]

Thank you everyone.
I went through the list of protein free shampoo and conditioners and went shopping today. I bought and SLS free shampoo that is also protein free by Desert Essence. I am giving up the Biolage shampoo but I am going to continue with the Biolage conditioner a little longer since it is protein free and cone free and see what it does. I bought this leave in conditioner called Yes to Cucumbers. It seemed to have good ingredients in it and good reviews when I went online to research it. I will see how it works. I am also going to give up the coconut oil for a while and use Jojoba oil. I will see if my hair improves. I will say that today I didn't use any coconut oil at all and my hair didn't feel as hard as it was on the ends, but just dry instead.

[prittykitty]

I'm sorry you are going thro this prittykitty. Unfortunately, from all the information you have given me, its seems that the condition of your hair is very dry and quite possibly somewhat damaged. If you have stopped coloring, straightening and blowdrying your hair for say at least 6 months and it is still breaking off in spots at the ends, then it is certainly not in a great condition.

You also mentioned that you are using Biolage shampoo. I would stop using that right away, I'm definitely sure this shampoo contains sodium laureth sulfate. Pretty much all commercial shampoos contain strong detergents. If you have dry or damaged hair especially, standard shampoos will only further dry out your hair. I agree with rogue psyche, find a sulfate free, natural shampoo like Audrey Organics, Jason or Giovanni. You can find these kinds of shampoos at a health food store or at Whole Foods.

Also as jojo mentioned, you may also be suffering from protein overload. Coconut oil actually is very high in protein. Its good for hairtypes that actually like protein. But for hairtypes that don't need so much protein, it can actually make hair harder and eventually more brittle. Try switching to a light oil like jojoba. Hairtypes that are sensitive to protein need much more moisture than they need protein. I know you've said you've tried COing before and you've felt that it didn't work too well for you, but I would really recommend that you try COing again. Try COing with V05 conditioners or Suave Natural conditioners, these contain no silicones.

Edit: I also want to add that since your hair is currently breaking at the ends for whichever of the reasons mentioned above, your best way to fight that is to cut off at least a full inch right now. Get a an all over blunt trim. Also, whenever you have free time do your own S&D trimming. Take off any split ends that you see. You need to cut off as much damage as you can find, its really the only way to start growing healthy long hair. :)
Eric,
Is it ok to use both, a regular conditioner and a leave in conditioner or should I just use one or the other?

[prittykitty]

I know coconut oil has been the main life saver in stopping my normally very splitty hair from splitting, though not everybody's hair likes coconut oil and I think in my opinion that like poos and condish's hair builds a tolarence to them and after a bit products which previously worked well on hair, actually start to do the opposite.

This being the main reason I swab my condish and poos around, the same could be true in regards to oils. I recently tried olive oil and whereas previously my hair only liked it on the ends, now it really soaked it in all over.

So rather than blaming one product, look at all your products and hair regimes, although you state CO washing was not for you, try it again. Hair needs change all the time, mine included. Another option is soapnuts, my hair really loved these and I didnt need conditioner with these. I must hunt them out and go again with these for a bit!

ETA- read ktani catnip posts too, she has had excellent results with combating splits with this and has the research evidence to back up her claims. I am sure many LHC members have had great results, thank to Ktani's hard work and time spent researching this. I have tried them and it conditioned my hair great, I just got lazy and would rather grab for a bottle of ready made.
Is this the regular catnip that is found in the pet section for cats or is there a different kind? I want to try this sometime. Thanks.

[prittykitty]

My hair did this when I was 16 due to serious bleach overload. I was dying my almost waist length hair platinum. I had to cut back to APL to get rid of the damage. I was using biolage products at the time, which is weird. Maybe they have something to do with it?
I was wondering the same thing. I was using a different shampoo and conditioner and recently switched to Biolage because it seems that they are discontinuing the ones I was using. My hair is damaged from chemical straighteners from a few years ago and from a perm that I got last year to try and get a more relaxed and controlled curl in my naturally curly hair. Instead I got an even tighter curl so this last June I had perm solution combed through my hair to smooth out the perm. It worked but fried my hair. I haven't used a chemical on it since and never plan to again.

[jivete]

My hair is prone to breakage too. And it looks like we have very similar hair types. Besides being sensitive to protein, my hair is also sensitive to silicones. They tend to make my hair more brittle for some reason, like they remove any of the stretch. I see you bought SLS free shampoo, I'd recommend CWC if you want to use a harsher clenser or CO the majority of the time and shampoo rarely. Any shampoo tends to be hard on my hair & scalp if used too often.

I've been experiencing a lot more breakage lately too. I haven't dyed or heat styled in nearly 2 years. What I do is frequent S&D and then trim when the ends start to look scraggly. I've also accepted that I might be reaching a length where the damage needs to be slowly cut off before I can grow any longer, which is my plan starting in Feb.

[jojo]

Is this the regular catnip that is found in the pet section for cats or is there a different kind? I want to try this sometime. Thanks. yes just the regular, go check Ktani out. she was very helpful to me and wont mind you IMing her, she has loads of information on catnip, click on her sig for more information:)

[jojo]

My hair is prone to breakage too. And it looks like we have very similar hair types. Besides being sensitive to protein, my hair is also sensitive to silicones. They tend to make my hair more brittle for some reason, like they remove any of the stretch. I see you bought SLS free shampoo, I'd recommend CWC if you want to use a harsher clenser or CO the majority of the time and shampoo rarely. Any shampoo tends to be hard on my hair & scalp if used too often.

I've been experiencing a lot more breakage lately too. I haven't dyed or heat styled in nearly 2 years. What I do is frequent S&D and then trim when the ends start to look scraggly. I've also accepted that I might be reaching a length where the damage needs to be slowly cut off before I can grow any longer, which is my plan starting in Feb.

We are hair twins, identicle hair twins! and I agree our type hair is so prone to breakage, i have learnt this year that moisture is our friend, have you also tried the CHI silk infusion serum? its brilliant!

[heidi w.]

Recently this last month I notice that when I comb my hair out when it is dry, there is little pieces about 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/8 inches in the sink, on the floor and on the counter top. I can see at least 20 at one time, all different sizes. I know I have damaged hair from past chemical abuse but is this normal now that I quit straightening, blow drying and have been taking much better care of my hair. I am using biolage shampoo and conditioner hydratherpie and a leave in conditioner, Pumpkin Potion. I also use coconut oil after my hair is dry. Could it be the oil that is doing this or is this a normal process that fried hair goes through? My hair feels much thicker in volume and is growing nice but the breaking off part is what is worrying me. Thanks for any help.

Also I have tried other product and keep getting the same results.

Can using oils on some hair cause it to break off.

Generally speaking, oil of any kind should not cause hair to break off.

How recently did you use chemical processes?

Do you flat iron?

You report these products:
BIOLAGE SHAMPOO and same lines HYDRATHERAPY (not sure of spelling here)
LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER: PUMPKIN POTION
COCONUT OIL AFTERWARDS

I think what's going on is that you have protein overload. Within product lines, a mated shampoo and conditioner almost always has a bit of protein measured in the use of the suite of products. The Biolage line is VERY GOOD. I personally have used this line for a very long time with great results. I don't, however, use your chosen conditioner--I use CONDITIONING BALM (which according for fine hair types shouldn't use a heavy conditioner, but if I don't, my hair tangles like no tomorrow with anything less -- and I have a technique for putting in that conditioner to ensure it gets to all strands).

I think where you're going wrong is the LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER. I know that when I added a leave-in to my biolage line, I immediately started having breakage and a lot of it. Further, you state that you use other products and the same thing happens -- I assume a number of possibilities there -- still shampooing/conditioning with biolage but tried other leave-ins or other oils -- not sure if you changed everything, including shampoo/conditioner (s/c). But even if you DID change s/c, if it too has enough protein and then your leave-in has protein, it could very likely still be protein overload.

It's known that when there's either extremity -- too much or too little protein -- hair can begin to break off, a lot of it, suddenly and seemingly inexplicably.

I believe that with the s/c Biolage line there is no need to use a leave-in conditioner then. Oiling with coconut oil should be fine after hair is dry, as it seems you do. I suspect the breakage will then cease UNLESS you are flat ironing or some such thing still.

I once used a leave-in and I read the fine print on the bottle and learned that for fine hair types it was recommended that this leave-in actually not be left in, after all! I actually just stopped using it. Problem solved.

I learned all this from my hair guru, Eddie, who is now deceased.

IF you are flat ironing, or are still working out dealing with processed hair, that breakage could be occurring from white dots that are created historically or from flat ironing. This is where hair's cuticle and integrity is entirely burst and broken down, and the hair literally will bend at a 90 degree angle if you touch the tip of the hair (the test to ensure it's not lint). When detangling some of these could then be breaking off. This white dot spot is quite fragile, but it's a bit unusual that white dots break off that easily in this volume.

I'm still voting protein overload and recommend you remove the leave-in conditioner. Further, I suspect this leave-in is from another line of product, another manufacturer. Many many leave-ins have protein, and it's easy to end up in the too much zonage.

I don't know the too much measurement -- that detail, but I do know about protein overload. The sign is a lot of breakage, somewhat suddenly and inexplicably.

Try that and see how it goes. I'd be interested to hear back.
heidi w.

[prittykitty]

Generally speaking, oil of any kind should not cause hair to break off.

How recently did you use chemical processes?

Do you flat iron?

You report these products:
BIOLAGE SHAMPOO and same lines HYDRATHERAPY (not sure of spelling here)
LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER: PUMPKIN POTION
COCONUT OIL AFTERWARDS

I think what's going on is that you have protein overload. Within product lines, a mated shampoo and conditioner almost always has a bit of protein measured in the use of the suite of products. The Biolage line is VERY GOOD. I personally have used this line for a very long time with great results. I don't, however, use your chosen conditioner--I use CONDITIONING BALM (which according for fine hair types shouldn't use a heavy conditioner, but if I don't, my hair tangles like no tomorrow with anything less -- and I have a technique for putting in that conditioner to ensure it gets to all strands).

I think where you're going wrong is the LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER. I know that when I added a leave-in to my biolage line, I immediately started having breakage and a lot of it. Further, you state that you use other products and the same thing happens -- I assume a number of possibilities there -- still shampooing/conditioning with biolage but tried other leave-ins or other oils -- not sure if you changed everything, including shampoo/conditioner (s/c). But even if you DID change s/c, if it too has enough protein and then your leave-in has protein, it could very likely still be protein overload.

It's known that when there's either extremity -- too much or too little protein -- hair can begin to break off, a lot of it, suddenly and seemingly inexplicably.

I believe that with the s/c Biolage line there is no need to use a leave-in conditioner then. Oiling with coconut oil should be fine after hair is dry, as it seems you do. I suspect the breakage will then cease UNLESS you are flat ironing or some such thing still.

I once used a leave-in and I read the fine print on the bottle and learned that for fine hair types it was recommended that this leave-in actually not be left in, after all! I actually just stopped using it. Problem solved.

I learned all this from my hair guru, Eddie, who is now deceased.

IF you are flat ironing, or are still working out dealing with processed hair, that breakage could be occurring from white dots that are created historically or from flat ironing. This is where hair's cuticle and integrity is entirely burst and broken down, and the hair literally will bend at a 90 degree angle if you touch the tip of the hair (the test to ensure it's not lint). When detangling some of these could then be breaking off. This white dot spot is quite fragile, but it's a bit unusual that white dots break off that easily in this volume.

I'm still voting protein overload and recommend you remove the leave-in conditioner. Further, I suspect this leave-in is from another line of product, another manufacturer. Many many leave-ins have protein, and it's easy to end up in the too much zonage.

I don't know the too much measurement -- that detail, but I do know about protein overload. The sign is a lot of breakage, somewhat suddenly and inexplicably.

Try that and see how it goes. I'd be interested to hear back.
heidi w.
Heidi,
I wanted to say that before today, my everyday routine was washing with Biolage shampoo, then conditioning with Biolage conditioning balm, and then when my hair was damp I would add Pumpkin Potion leave in conditioner and when my hair was dry I would add coconut oil and sometimes a little extra. Before using the Biolage products I was only using the Pumpkin products. I switched to Biolage because they are going to discontinue the Pumpkin products. It was after the switch to the Biolage routine that my hair started to break off.

Today I clarified it with a clarifying shampoo and used only the Biolage conditioning balm. When my hair was damp after I took it out of the towel, I combed it out and added Jojoba oil this time instead of coconut oil. My hair felt light today and was easier to comb through and there was no breakage going on, nothing like yesterday. I did get some of the split ends today but I didn't want to trim too much just yet because about a month ago I trimmed my layers to have a style going on while it grows. I want to try and grow the layers out to one length a see how it looks.

Thank you so much for the information you gave. It helped so much. I am so glad that the splitting stopped.

[prittykitty]

I have chemically treated hair, and pre-LHC I used to heat style sporadically. I am now at the point where I have to start gradually micro trimming away the damage, but I was able to grow for more than six months and get from APL+ to very nearly waist.

I would shelve the Biolage shampoo and use it only when you need a clarifying wash. Biolage shampoos use Sodium Laurel Sulfate, which is overly harsh and drying to be used as a daily shampoo for chemically treated hair. If you live near a Trader Joes, their Spa Nourish shampoo is a much gentler, cheaper shampoo. Its the one I've been using for five months or so to very good results. More widely avaliable but more expensive (but still cheaper than Biolage) are shampoo brands like Avalon Organics, Audrey Organics, Burts Bees, which I see both at Whole Foods and at my local Vons.

I'm not sure about your conditioner as have never used it, but it might not be moisturizing enough (especially after your shampoo). Funnily enough, although Biolage's shampoos are drying, they have some of the better conditioners on the market, if buy the right one for your needs. Their conditioning balm is the most popular one around here, because it doesn't have 'cones and is extremely moisturizing. If you want to save money, Sally's carries a good knockoff of this called GVP Conditioning Balm. This is what I use. They also carry a brand called Biotera which are all Biolage knockoffs.

The best article for anyone, especially those growing out chemically treated hair is called "The Fine Art of Protein and Moisture Balance", located here: http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/278612/the_fine_art_of_protein_and_moisture.html?singlepa ge=true&cat=69http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/278612/the_fine_art_of_protein_and_moisture.html?singlepa ge=true&cat=69. Chemical treatments wear at the protein in your hair, but at the same time can be very brittle, and so being in tune with the protein/moisture balance is key in keeping your hair healthy. This article explains how to do this more than I can, and what works for me may not work for you in this case.

Although there's a lot of things to try, don't change too many things at once. When I was figuring out my regimen, I kept a hair journal, and analyzed the condition of my hair every wash and wrote it down for reference. Read the articles in the Article links at the top of this page, they have a ton of good advice and information, especially Nightshade's article on damaged hair and Kirin and Ursula's Newbie articles.
Thank you for this information. It was great and I found my hair problem.

[ktani]

I would be happy to give you information on catnip if you wish. Just pm me or see the blog in my signature, Part 3.

Re Biolage Conditioning Balm, I used the original version years ago before L'Oreal bought the company and changed the formulation somewhat. I do believe though that it is mostly the same. The product builds-up. Any product that builds-up contributes to breakage because the hair is not getting the moisuture it needs. I had breakage and split ends from it from overuse of it at one point.

You clarified your hair. That removed all excess product and now your hair is light and soft again. Try if you like the Biolage shampoo you have been using, to alternate it with perhaps another in the line or a different one completely. You can also try a different conditioner to alternate with the Balm. Clarifying once in a while sounds like it may be necessary, depending on the products you choose.

Product formulations are fairly complex with some products even though the ingredient list may not be long. Chitosan PCA can build-up (it is a film former) and according to this http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=80003&catid=73404, there is more of it in the product (Biolage Conditioning Balm) than the protein they add but neither are the main ingredients.

Protein overload has become a catch phrase when it is really too many films on the hair and not excess protein that is the problem. Clarifying removes them, regardless of the name used to describe them.

Oils can build-up too and form a film, especially if they are not absorbed very much into the hair and coat it instead. Clarifing works well on oil fims also. Drying oils, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil. Semi-drying oils, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semi-drying_oil.

Coconut oil is considered to be a non drying oil, one of several, See R F contamination http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/ware/oele/kokosoel/kokosoel.htm.

Here is just one list of cosmetic film formers used in hair and skin cosmetics, http://www.lica.com.tw/english/index.php/home/functions/film-formers. Here is another, http://www.makingcosmetics.com/inci-list/inci-film-formers.htm, and neither is complete.

[ArienEllariel]

I have a lot of breakage in my hair too, though for different reasons I think. A few months ago I did use a semi-permanent color in my hair- before I learned how bad it is to use the stuff in your hair. In addition, I never really took very good care of my hair and used to sleep with it loose. From my most recent S & D, I've figured out that the majority of my breakage is not on the very ends of my hair (i.e. the hemline) but up to 4 inches above it and mostly in the top layer. This is where my hair was broken off from harsh brushing and/or combing coupled with my usual sleep pattern which results in a rats nest at the back of my head the next morning. I have since corrected this (well, I should say "taken steps to keep it from happening again") by either braiding or bunning my hair before bed, using coconut oil on the ends several times a week, and being gentler during the brushing/combing process. Of course, like other LHCers have mentioned, there isn't anything that you can do but chop off the damage. For me personally, this means letting my hair grow out as much as possible, babying already damaged hair, and eventually trimming off the damage. I prefer the S&D method, although it's hard at the moment to see the broken off hairs at the back of my head.

[heidi w.]

One more thing that I should mention, just to cover all the bases.

There are two types of thyroid health concerns. Hyperthyroid and hypothyroid. In both instances, a common symptom is it shows up first or early in the hair's behavior. However, the behavior for each is not quite the same. Likely for the OP, this is not an issue, but in case the situation persists after checking the leave-in, is that perhaps a doctor's visit to the ob-gyn could be in order for a simple blood screen test to check thyroid levels.

Hyperthyroid shows up with hair breaking off that it begins to thin. It breaks off enough that it's noticeable and the thinning within a relatively brief period of time. I've seen really awful cases where it occurs that hair is ok looking and a mere six weeks later can look pretty raggedy. Others it's a much slower pace. I have a personal friend who's took a lot longer. The other symptom for hyperthyroid might include pretty darn hot a lot of the time, and fairly rapid weight loss. And eyes can bulge a bit too.

Hypothyroid the hair can fall out in chunks, from the root. There are other symptoms as well such as weight gain, a fair amount, too.

Thyroid concerns are still relatively under-diagnoses in women, and even men, as a whole. This can involve the pituitary glands and that sort of thing. While a simple blood screen is the starting point, it can be difficult to get a clear analysis if one's numbers are what is considered borderline. There are others on this site who know a lot more about this than I do. I know enough to throw the possibility out there.

Medication will stabilize things, yet often one has to proceed a bit by trial and error. Hair in this instance isn't like baldness where the hair follicle is dying. Once levels are established and the body has adjusted, the hair will grow back. This can take a year or more, depending on medications.

Thyroid is not to be ignored if one discovers this is an issue.

The OP may find a need to actually clarify, then condition, then can oil, leaving out, as suggested, the leave-in conditioner. The reason clarifying is likely necessary is to have a clean slate, as it were, so that all old product is removed. Because if a hair wash of s/c (Shampoo/Conditioning) is performed, the leave-in may be remaining in trace enough portions to continue hair breaking off.

IF the OP does NOT know how to clarify, please inquire. It's easy enough to select a store-purchased product that includes the word 'clarify' on the name of the product. It's important to condition after any clarifying.

The other option is this lone possibility. I went to the Biolage area this weekend and at first thought Hydroptherapie conditioner was the new name for Conditioning Balm in the Biolage line. (This sometimes happens that manufacturers/brands re-name the same product.) Nope. They're separate conditioners. The Hydrotherapie could be, possibly, too much somehow for the conditioner choice and contributing in some degree to the protein overload, and perhaps switching within this line to Conditioning Balm (which is a bit cheaper, actually) might be a possibility.

So, my suggestion for plan of attack:
CLARIFY
condition with usual conditioner - hydrotherapie
do NOT use a leave-in
Oil as you do.

See how that goes. IF it's still breaking off, then
CLARIFY
condition with Conditioning Balm
do NOT use leave-in
Oil as you do.

See how that goes. Try each one twice, before proceeding.

If you want to check about what's causing the breakage for certain, you could consider, a third step in the process -- There's two ways: clarifying and do your normal s/c without using the leave-in and then this -- but don't do this with the regular Hydrotherapie conditioner, and do first check using just conditioning Balm without leave-in so you have a baseline piece of data on response there (as in, no breakage). Because if breakage occurs again, in this below plan, then you know it's the leave-in, even if switching conditioner choice in this product line. OR you know it could be both, leave-in and conditioner choice (Hydrotherapie, perhaps) that together is creating a combined effect.

CLARIFY
condition with Conditioning Balm
USE leave-in
Oil as you do.

But I'm going with the idea of protein overload caused by the leave-in, particularly in combination with this product line and conditioner choice which should have plenty of protein in them anyway.

FYI - Thyroid concerns can occur in anyone of any age, but has a tendency to occur in women beyond age 40 which is why it's now included in the basic protocols for an annual ob-gyn, a thyroid screen. Thyroid issues can mess with the entire system including mood.

heidi w.

[heidi w.]

I would be happy to give you information on catnip if you wish. Just pm me or see the blog in my signature, Part 3.

Re Biolage Conditioning Balm, I used the original version years ago before L'Oreal bought the company and changed the formulation somewhat. I do believe though that it is mostly the same. The product builds-up. Any product that builds-up contributes to breakage because the hair is not getting the moisuture it needs. I had breakage and split ends from it from overuse of it at one point.

You clarified your hair. That removed all excess product and now your hair is light and soft again. Try if you like the Biolage shampoo you have been using, to alternate it with perhaps another in the line or a different one completely. You can also try a different conditioner to alternate with the Balm. Clarifying once in a while sounds like it may be necessary, depending on the products you choose.

Product formulations are fairly complex with some products even though the ingredient list may not be long. Chitosan PCA can build-up (it is a film former) and according to this http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=80003&catid=73404, there is more of it in the product (Biolage Conditioning Balm) than the protein they add but neither are the main ingredients.

Protein overload has become a catch phrase when it is really too many films on the hair and not excess protein that is the problem. Clarifying removes them, regardless of the name used to describe them.

Oils can build-up too and form a film, especially if they are not absorbed very much into the hair and coat it instead. Clarifing works well on oil fims also. Drying oils, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil. Semi-drying oils, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semi-drying_oil.

Coconut oil is considered to be a non drying oil, one of several, See R F contamination http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/ware/oele/kokosoel/kokosoel.htm.

Here is just one list of cosmetic film formers used in hair and skin cosmetics, http://www.lica.com.tw/english/index.php/home/functions/film-formers. Here is another, http://www.makingcosmetics.com/inci-list/inci-film-formers.htm, and neither is complete.

In my way, I rather agree with most of this. All products & home oils and so on have the ability to build up, which when this occurs, yes, the conditioner one applies is then blocked from effectiveness as this creates a barrier on the hair's surface, the surface of the cuticle.

I want to be clear that I think, based on some superficial of looking into this, that the Hydratherapie conditioning in the Biolage/Matrix line is likely intended for colored hair--not sure though. If your hair isn't colored, you probably shouldn't be using it.

One can have build-up eventually, with Conditioning Balm. However, I use this line religiously, the Hydrating Shampoo and the Conditioning Balm, and haven't clarified in perhaps two years. [My results may not be everyone else's results -- this I realize. And I no longer ACV rinse having found a better way to manage my Seborrhea.) But everyone's hair is different and how they use a product is different. For example, when it comes to conditioning, I find the temperature of the water really begins to matter for uptake. Too tepid it doesn't smear so well and doesn't get absorbed. It rather is more cakey, laying on top of the hair more, and may be a bit more difficult to rinse out. ETA: This may also mean, in too tepid of conditions, depending on oiliness of one's scalp skin & related hair, that shampoo, too, isn't being rinsed out well either.)

As it concerns this business of protein overload and buildup, while I completely understand the dovetail and the nomenclature issue -- and do agree that it's easy to mis-identify, the difference in my book is this: too little or too much protein has a definite signal in hair breaking off, suddenly, inexplicably and a lot of it. Buildup on the other hand does not usually lead to breaking off of hair -- it leads to a tactile feeling that is commonly described as crunchy, or a kind of strange brittleness, yet hair should not be breaking off (ETA: hair will, however, be tangly and difficult to untangle, for example, which could lead to snapping). That doesn't mean it won't ever never happen that buildup causes breakage. It just means that in most cases, buildup doesn't lead to breaking off.

It's easy on an internet site to throw around terms and arise at misunderstandings. There's a lot of stuff out there in internet land, in the media, in salons, in beauty supply stores that mis-information, and it's just hard to figure it all out, practically, if you're not a Scientist USA in the know. I'm not in the know on all things hair -- I'm still learning.

So don't walk away from this discussion and Ktani's relevant points thinking protein overload isn't possible, it's all just buildup--just another outgrowth of buildup. I have reason to believe it's more likely protein issue because of my familiarity with this product line, and the leave-in that's being used as well -- from a yet different product line -- and the description of the hair breaking off a lot and not stopping (because the products haven't been tinkered with -- well maybe they have by now). The reason to clarify is for buildup, yes; but in this instance you want to get everything off the hair and then experiment with one thing at a time to determine for certain which thing is the likely culprit for causing this breakage. If it's protein overload caused by the leave-in, then what will happen after clarifying and not using the leave-in is that the breakage should pretty much cease rather immediately. And yes, that will take care of buildup too -- because a leave-in can build up too. Clarifying removes everything off the hair, from the surface of the cuticles. Once something has dried on to the hair, especially some products, don't wash off so well, particularly after a time, with a regular hair wash of any kind.

ETA: fixed my meaning here for the various scenarios trying to be clear....not sure I succeeded.....
Anyway, yes, in a sense you won't know if it's buildup per se or protein overload once you clarify and the breakage stops, then you're not sure of which product, if any is at issue, or it's buildup. This then, if keeping the same products, including leave-in, and breakage stops after clarifying, then would mean an issue with buildup. BUT IF you remove the leave-in, and breakage stops.....after this clarify...then it could be either/or (buildup or protein, but I'm going with protein).

But if you re-introduce that leave-in and it starts again, you have an answer. That's not buildup then.

If you remove the leave-in and it's still going after a clarifying, then it's not buildup. We have to look at conditioner choice.

IF you then clarify, remove the leave-in still (keep that constant) and CHANGE the conditioner choice to say, the Conditioning Balm, in this line, and it stops, then you have an answer that maybe somehow between leave-in and conditioner choice there was an issue.

If you re-introduce the leave-in keeping the conditioner choice switched, to say, Conditioning Balm, and it begins again, the breakage, then you have an answer. It's not buildup.

And so on. It's like a puzzle.

heidi w.

[heidi w.]

Heidi,
I wanted to say that before today, my everyday routine was washing with Biolage shampoo, then conditioning with Biolage conditioning balm, and then when my hair was damp I would add Pumpkin Potion leave in conditioner and when my hair was dry I would add coconut oil and sometimes a little extra. Before using the Biolage products I was only using the Pumpkin products. I switched to Biolage because they are going to discontinue the Pumpkin products. It was after the switch to the Biolage routine that my hair started to break off.

Today I clarified it with a clarifying shampoo and used only the Biolage conditioning balm. When my hair was damp after I took it out of the towel, I combed it out and added Jojoba oil this time instead of coconut oil. My hair felt light today and was easier to comb through and there was no breakage going on, nothing like yesterday. I did get some of the split ends today but I didn't want to trim too much just yet because about a month ago I trimmed my layers to have a style going on while it grows. I want to try and grow the layers out to one length a see how it looks.

Thank you so much for the information you gave. It helped so much. I am so glad that the splitting stopped.

I didn't see this PrittyKitty! Sorry about that!
It seems that after clarifying you chose not to use your leave-in conditioner.

hmmmm.

Ok, so BEFORE you were using all products in the Pumpkin Line -- I think that's Healthy Sexy product branding?

THEN you kept the leave-in from this line, and switched to the Biolage/Matrix line. OK. Then hair began to break off. Could still be the business of blending amongst lines. As Ktani points out, formulating products within a line gets pretty detailed.

Just to give you a case in point -- as mentioned earlier I was historically a Biolage chick for a good 20 yrs to date (when I initially joined any internet hair site I was already at around classic length). THEN decided (this was about 10 or so years ago now, perhaps a bit more than that because my hair guru was alive at the time, still) to include a leave-in from the L'Anza line. My hair immediately began to break off, lots of it. Within hours of application. I left it on for about 3 days wondering what the heck!?!! THEN got busy and finally read the bottle. Fine hair types were supposed to rinse this stuff out, the leave-in. I hopped back in the shower, clarified, re-did my usual shampoo/conditioner and never again used a leave-in, only oil. My hair guru later explained to me about protein and some about product formulation.

In fact, now my routine is really scaled down -- no more ACV rinses, rarely oil in fact, even with my fave coconut oil because I couldn't find it for the longest time around these parts of the US except by driving an incredible distance which was silly for one lone product. Finally, just the other day found my fave brand of Coconut Oil in a chain store in the organic food aisle.


heidi w.

[TheCatSaidQuack]

I recently discovered that I had the same problem, and was also using biolage (it smelled so good!). Talk about a strange coincidence. Anyways, I would have little hairs, anywhere from a 1/4 of an inch to 2 inches, all over my sink, floor, etc whenever I would comb it (not brush, but a wide tooth comb). I figured it had something to do with previous chemical damage and cut my nearly waist length hair to above bra strap, in attempts to grow it out 'properly'.
Since cutting it and switching to CO (vo5), it's completely stopped - overnight, almost. I also use a bit of jojoba oil on the ends occasionally, and that keeps them looking nice (even more so since the ends are still part of my damaged hair).
HTH!