Oils in hair care - how to choose.

[paulownia]

I decided to write a short compendium about oils and how to choose the best one for hair. The information found on LHC is scattered and incomplete and lacks organisation. Since many of us that are embarking on the journey of growing long hair are sooner or later getting interested in oils, it would be useful to organise basic information about this matter.

There is many benefits in regular oiling and most of us are aware of it. A good oil will enhance shine, combat frizz, improve elasticity and prevent split ends and tangling. Unfortunately, poorly matched one (most common case is coconut oil which is really not suited for everyone) will leave hair stiff and crunchy, or greasy and sticky.

Understanding the composition of different oils, their properties and the link between amount of fatty acids and their saturation and the porosity of our hair is the key to success - finding a right oil for our hair.

Whair is, exactly, hair porosity? In short terms, it's your hair condition. It is affected by the hair outer layer called cuticle.
We distinguish three types of porosity:

1. Low. The cuticle lays flat. This type of hair is usually considered very healthy, shiny and frizz-resistant, prone to build-up. Absorbs moisture slowly and takes long time to dry, most of the time resistant to styling and colouring.

2. Medium. The cuticle is looser, allows just the right amount of moisture to penetrate hair. This type of hair is the easiest to care for, it maintains styles and colour.

3. High. The cuticle is raised open, hair is dry, not very shiny, prone to tangles and matting. Absorbs moisture quickly and frizzes easily, dries also fast.
Hair can have high porosity by it's nature (curls) or it can be result of excessive processing (bleach, heat)

How does this apply to choosing the right oil for our strands?
Depending on their chemical composition oils can be divided -also in 3 - groups.
1. Oils with high amount of saturated fatty acids. Those are most suited for low porosity hair and are considered to penetrate hair.
2. Oils with high amount of monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid, omega 9). Good for medium porosity hair. Semi-penetrating.
3. Oils with high amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids ( linolenic acid omega 6 and alpha-linolenic acid omega 3 ). Suited for high porosity, they do not penetrate hair.

The right thing to do is to establish our hair porosity and then choose a few oils that might suit us and test. It's good to remember, however, that it could be still a hit-and-miss process. Each head of hair is unique. It could have properties of two types of porosity ( between medium and high for example). Sometimes a chosen oil will not work alone but could perform great in a blend.

Listed below are the details for different oils and the percentage of fatty acids they contain.
Saturated
Coconut oil 44 % of lauric acid.
Palm oil 48% of lauric acid
Babassu oil 46% of lauric acid
Monoi oil 50% of lauric acid
Tucuma butter 48% of lauric acid
Shea butter 46% omega 9, 41% stearic acid.
Cupacu butter 43% omega 9, 30% stearic acid
Cacao butter 38% omega 9, 35% stearic acid, 25% palmitic acid
Mango butter 40% stearic acid, 35% palmitic acid

Monounsaturated
Hazelnut oil 80% oleic acid
Camellia oil 80 % oleic acid
Moringa oil 80% oleic acid
Buriti oil 79% oleic acid
Papaya seed oil 72% oleic acid
Plum kernel oil 70% oleic acid
Apricot kernel oil 66% oleic acid
Peach kernel oil 64% oleic acid
Sweet almond oil 63% oleic acid
Macadamia oil 60% oleic acid 20% palmitoleic acid ( omega 7)
Avocado oil 60% oleic acid
Rapeseed oil 57% oleic acid
Olive oil 56% oleic acid
Sesame oil 50% oleic acid
Peanut oil 50% oleic acid
Tamanu oil 50% oleic acid
Neem oil 48% oleic acid
Argan oil 46% oleic acid
Sea buckthorn oil 30% oleic acid 20% palmitoleic acid

Polyunsaturated
Safflower oil 80% linolenic acid
Walnut oil 78% linolenic acid
Passion fruit oil 77% linolenic acid
Grapeseed oil 76% linolenic acid
Evening primrose oil 75% linolenic acid
Poppy seed oil 70% linolenic acid
Sunflower oil 64% linolenic acid
Apple seed oil 63% linolenic acid
Watermelon seed oil 62% linolenic acid
Pumpkin seed oil 60% linolenic acid
Blackberry seed oil 60% linolenic acid
Blackseed oil 57% linolenic acid
Wheat germ oil 55% linolenic acid
Hemp oil 55% linolenic acid
Soybean oil 55% linolenic acid
Tomato seed oil 55% linolenic acid
Cottonseed oil 54% linolenic acid
Cornseed oil 52% linolenic acid
Blackcurrant seed oil 50% linolenic acid
Aronia berry seed oil 39% linolenic acid
Borago officinalis seed oil 38% linolenic acid
Green coffee seed oil 38% linolenic acid

Raspberry seed oil 54% linolenic acid 30% alpha-linolenic acid
Wild blueberry seed oil 40% linolenic acid and 30% alpha-linolenic acid
Cranberry seed oil 35% linolenic acid and 30% alpha-linolenic acid
Musk rose seed oil 43% linolenic acid and 33% alpha-linolenic acid
Elderflower seed oil 38% linolenic acid and 36% alpha-linolenic acid
Strawberry seed oil 38% linolenic acid and 37% alpha-linolenic acid
Black raspberry seed oil 55% linolenic acid and 40% alpha-linolenic acid
Camelina oil 40% oleic acid and 40% alpha-linolenic acid
Chia seed oil 20% linolenic acid and 59% alpha-linolenic acid
Linseed oil 65% alpha-linolenic acid


Sources: http://www.kasianafali.pl/2017/09/podzia-olejow-na-kwasy-tuszczowe.html?m=1

https://www.doz.pl/czytelnia/a14531-Olejowanie_wlosow__wybieramy_odpowiedni_olej_do_st ruktury_i_potrzeby_wlosa

[Ylva]

I have a feeling it might not be quite this simple in practice. Doesn't low porosity hair often disagree with coconut oil? :hmm: I did read that you included that each head of hair is unique, but I find this matter especially with coconut oil quite interesting. :)

[lapushka]

Thanks for that. ^^

I looked at sciency hairblog all the time for my information on oils.

But I'm sure this will help out a lot!

[MusicalSpoons]

I have a feeling it might not be quite this simple in practice. Doesn't low porosity hair often disagree with coconut oil? :hmm: I did read that you included that each head of hair is unique, but I find this matter especially with coconut oil quite interesting. :)

The caveat about coconut oil being one to watch out for is a bit earlier in the article :)


Can I be really picky? The paragraphs without spaces between them are quite hard to read, especially being a first post in the thread with space for an ad next to the text so it's just a long, narrow wall of text. Spaces between the paragraphs would make it a lot more easily readable :o

Really good idea for a thread :thumbsup: this spreadsheet may be of interest to readers, possibly containing some oils that aren't already mentioned. (I don't know who compiled it, I think an old LHC member possibly)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-lDtdpjbJopUEvpk0vjNbDt_mE_prCCCZtOqfRnzIaw/htmlview#

[paulownia]

The caveat about coconut oil being one to watch out for is a bit earlier in the article :)


Can I be really picky? The paragraphs without spaces between them are quite hard to read, especially being a first post in the thread with space for an ad next to the text so it's just a long, narrow wall of text. Spaces between the paragraphs would make it a lot more easily readable :o

Really good idea for a thread :thumbsup: this spreadsheet may be of interest to readers, possibly containing some oils that aren't already mentioned. (I don't know who compiled it, I think an old LHC member possibly)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-lDtdpjbJopUEvpk0vjNbDt_mE_prCCCZtOqfRnzIaw/htmlview#
I edited it. Do you mean it needed bigger spaces between paragraphs?:D
I used spreadsheets from a polish wavy hair care blogger. She does mention that she used different sources to make this compilation.

[SleepyTangles]

Awesome job :thumbsup:.
My personal advice is: do not expect all the oils from the same category to work just as well for your individual needs .
Cocoa butter and mango seed butter, on me, work distinctly better than coconut oil, for example.

[Ylva]

The caveat about coconut oil being one to watch out for is a bit earlier in the article :)

Yes, but I think it would be nice to hear from different porosities how they find it in practice. I don't have so much virgin hair yet that I would definitely be able to say anything, but I tend to avoid butters everywhere. My hair hates them.

[paulownia]

Awesome job :thumbsup:.
My personal advice is: do not expect all the oils from the same category to work just as well for your individual needs .
Cocoa butter and mango seed butter, on me, work distinctly better than coconut oil, for example.
Thanks!;)
That is easily explained if one considers that butters have more of omega 9 and stearic acid while coconut has more lauric acid.
The differences between the oils even belonging to the same group but still having different balance of different fatty acids play also a role here.
I deeply regret that I couldn't organize this information in a spreadsheet. It would be much clearer. Unfortunately I don't have access to computer and Excel program.
My hair was pretty high porous about 10 years ago and hated coconut for sure. My favourite oil back then was walnut.
Now I'm somewhere between low and medium porosity. Coconut works fine, but also almond, sesame, plum kernel and peanut.

[MusicalSpoons]

I edited it. Do you mean it needed bigger spaces between paragraphs?:D
I used spreadsheets from a polish wavy hair care blogger. She does mention that she used different sources to make this compilation.

That's exactly what I meant, and it's much easier to read now, thanks! :D


Ylva yes that's a good point. I think my hair is probably medium porosity and its favourite oil for pre-poo so far is babassu, which according to the categories should be better for low porosity; for dry oiling between washes sweet almond oil seemed to be best (although I suppose that could have changed as I haven't done it for a while due to ROO working much better and just not really needing to oil between washes other than for pre-poo, or for feeling like I'm protecting a braid which is a completely different purpose).

[chestnutlocks]

Thank you for posting this. As a newbie, I learn so much from this board!

[ynne]

I was hoping to find oils that behave similarly to castor oil, but it seems fairly unique in its composition? My hair likes it better than any other oil, I was just hoping to find some easier accessible option.

[lapushka]

I was hoping to find oils that behave similarly to castor oil, but it seems fairly unique in its composition? My hair likes it better than any other oil, I was just hoping to find some easier accessible option.

Maybe Amla oil? The one with the mineral oil composition (was that from Vatika)?

[illicitlizard]

This is a very interesting post, hadn't considered the fatty acid content of oils and relation to porosity!
I tend to avoid oils as my hair is fine and easily weighed down, pretty sure I'm low porosity too...I'm sure as I get more length and more tetchy ends this post will come in handy.
Even if it doesn't make choosing an oil foolproof it's a place to start and it's also the longest list of oils for haircare I've seen.

[SleepyTangles]

I was hoping to find oils that behave similarly to castor oil, but it seems fairly unique in its composition? My hair likes it better than any other oil, I was just hoping to find some easier accessible option.

Never found an oil as dense and sticky as castor oil, sorry!

[ynne]

Maybe Amla oil? The one with the mineral oil composition (was that from Vatika)?
Hm, for the time being I'd like to avoid mineral oil, but I looked it up and the Vatika one is actually available here, so I'll note it down as a future option! :) Thank you for the suggestion!


Never found an oil as dense and sticky as castor oil, sorry!
Ah, thank you for chiming in even if it's with bad news!

[cat11]

May I suggest adding Jojoba oil. Great lightweight oil. Also kukui oil very nice.

[lapushka]

Hm, for the time being I'd like to avoid mineral oil, but I looked it up and the Vatika one is actually available here, so I'll note it down as a future option! :) Thank you for the suggestion!

You're welcome, ynne! :D I by no means know if it is a valid, or good suggestion, but... at least there's options out there!

I used up an entire bottle of "neem" oil by Dr. Hauschka and I loved it. Not thick or dense, but it is a blend of several oils with some neem in it (and no it doesn't smell like it). It has no scent, the one I had (and it was old) but they might have added fragrance... IDK how the current batches of it are. It is pricy, though!

[paulownia]

I was hoping to find oils that behave similarly to castor oil, but it seems fairly unique in its composition? My hair likes it better than any other oil, I was just hoping to find some easier accessible option.

Well, castor oil has a pretty unique composition. Its the only one that contains almost 90% of ricinolenic acid which is uniquely hydroxylated and responsible for extreme viscosity of this oil- almost 100 times the value observed in another fatty materials.
So it will be tricky to find a similar ;)
Is it not easily accessible? I thought its a pretty common and not so expensive oil.

[ynne]

Well, castor oil has a pretty unique composition. Its the only one that contains almost 90% of ricinolenic acid which is uniquely hydroxylated and responsible for extreme viscosity of this oil- almost 100 times the value observed in another fatty materials.
So it will be tricky to find a similar ;)
Is it not easily accessible? I thought its a pretty common and not so expensive oil.

Yeah, that's what my search brought up too, though I don't understand the chemical side of it. I can't quite describe what about it makes it work so well on both wet and dry hair, either. I only tried olive, sesame and macadamia oil, but none of them had even remotely similar effect.
It's not in any drugstore/supermarket I visited, unfortunately. :/ So not really that common here. They are supposed to have a tiny bottle in DM, but so far I didn't see it in the physical stores and that one is fairly overpriced. As for price, many oils and oil blends I found were cheaper in comparison, but it's not the most expensive one either!

[MusicalSpoons]

Yeah, that's what my search brought up too, though I don't understand the chemical side of it. I can't quite describe what about it makes it work so well on both wet and dry hair, either. I only tried olive, sesame and macadamia oil, but none of them had even remotely similar effect.
It's not in any drugstore/supermarket I visited, unfortunately. :/ So not really that common here. They are supposed to have a tiny bottle in DM, but so far I didn't see it in the physical stores and that one is fairly overpriced. As for price, many oils and oil blends I found were cheaper in comparison, but it's not the most expensive one either!

You might possibly find it as a laxative, but anywhere online that sells carrier oils or soapmaking supplies or cosmetic bases are probably the most likely places to find it. Postage costs could bump up the price, of course :/ (I was really fortunate to find a couple of such companies over here that give free postage on everything but that is very unusual).

[ynne]

You might possibly find it as a laxative, but anywhere online that sells carrier oils or soapmaking supplies or cosmetic bases are probably the most likely places to find it. Postage costs could bump up the price, of course :/ (I was really fortunate to find a couple of such companies over here that give free postage on everything but that is very unusual).

Ohh, a soupmaking website is where I might order it next time! It's cheaper there so that is a very good tip, they even have larger amounts. :)
I found it in a few online cosmetic/hair/bio stores, which is where I got my previous one that ran out, it's just that like you say, the shipping is nearly the same cost as the oil itself, so that's why I was hoping to find a local option.
It's really good you were able to find the postage-free option! :)