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View Full Version : 18th century pomade and powder



Brethil
June 19th, 2019, 11:58 AM
I recently watched some of American Duchess's promotional videos for 18th century hairstyles and products from their new book The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty. Of course, instead of pre-ordering their book like a sensible woman, I grabbed a can of cooking lard and a tub of cornstarch and started greasing up my hair.

Thoughts: Super messy. I mostly powdered my hair in the bathtub, and it still got everywhere. Not too messy after the powder was applied. It did rub off when on my pillowcase and when I pulled my t-shirt over my head. The look was great- not pure white, but very like this lady's (https://www.anticstore.art/70581P). The texturizing was great too. I have fine, slippery hair, and it was fun to be able to just stick a couple pins it and not have it slide down in five seconds. It didn't feel greasy except the spots that needed more cornstarch, nor did it clump like greasy hair. It did feel weird to the touch-a bit gritty and stiff. The volume was amazing. It felt like my buns were easily twice the volume as normal. Heavy though. Washing out- I'm on my second washing. The first got all the powder out, but by no means all of the grease. I may have to pick up a clarifying shampoo if this time doesn't work.

I forgot to take any photos at all.


Have any of you experimented with pomade and powder? What did you think?

Any of you tried animal fats on your hair? The American Duchess video mentions that they behave differently on the hair with powder than vegetable or petroleum oils since they're more similar to our own oils. I don't have enough experience with heavily oiling my hair to be able to compare.

queencarrion
June 19th, 2019, 02:28 PM
OMG, that sounds like a really intriguing book! You are really intrepid to try out greasing and powdering, I'd be so nervous about the grittiness :P
I've never powdered my hair or anything, but I used to enjoy the effects of old-school henna+placenta hair masks that you used to be able to pick up at the drug store. I also used to use a "cholesterol" commercial hair mask that actually worked super well, although obviously it was SUPER heavy. These have sort of fallen out of style and are hard to find or maybe even discontinued in favor of plant based masks and simple oils like coconut and sweet almond, and I generally think the plant-based versions have a similar effect and have the benefit of being cruelty free.

lapushka
June 19th, 2019, 03:51 PM
This actually reminds me a lot of this (she duplicates an 18th century hairbook's advice):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuplmblXNPs

If you looked any bit like her... I just... I wouldn't. ;)

Why put your hair through that amount of stress and manipulation?

Brethil
June 20th, 2019, 12:14 AM
Sort of like that, only I used lard instead of a modern commercial pomade. Lard is much closer to what a 18th century woman would have used. But I didn't curl my hair, since I don't use heat on my hair. Nor did I tease it. A bit more like this lady' (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxwMQdERWxY) than loepsie's hair, if you ignore the cushion.

I figured the only things I was applying to my hair were fat and cornstarch, both of which are common hair products and not harmful. And they don't seem to have done any damage. Actually, my ends were a bit dry, but they're now quite shiny and sleek, even though I forgot to put in my leave in conditioner. Hmm. I might have to try lard as a pre--wash deep conditioning treatment.

I did loose more hair than normal, but I think a large part of that was because I ended brushing it way more than normal (or necessary. I tried 'brushing the powder out', since I read about it somewhere. It did kind of work, except at the roots. But it took a lot of brushing.)

lapushka
June 20th, 2019, 06:00 AM
TBH, I would stop with this. You say you lost more hair than normal; that tells you something. That tells you it's not good for your hair. It is not good for your hair, period.

I would try modern techniques, and modern products.

Or, are you doing this for period re-enactment? Why are you doing this, if I may ask? Because it's not everyday you hear about someone putting lard in their hair. :)

Pacific
June 20th, 2019, 06:18 AM
At the German Board Langhaarnetzwerk there's a thread about lard. Many use it as pre wash and some also as leave in.

As mentioned, the cholesterol masks are hard to find and lard works similar.

Entangled
June 20th, 2019, 12:16 PM
It’s so exciting to me to hear people trying this out! This type of hair care is so unusual now. I have no experience but would love to see pictures should you try it out again.

Ylva
June 20th, 2019, 02:23 PM
I have no experience but would love to see pictures should you try it out again.

This is what I came to say as well.

I know it is unusual, but that's no reason not to do something. Hair health isn't always everything, something else could bring greater joy to an individual. Heck, I permed and backcombed my hair for years because I loved the 80s. I was getting picked on for it so much, but I had to be true to myself. :D So, OP, if you simply like this kind of hair stuff, go for it.

lapushka
June 20th, 2019, 02:32 PM
At the German Board Langhaarnetzwerk there's a thread about lard. Many use it as pre wash and some also as leave in.

As mentioned, the cholesterol masks are hard to find and lard works similar.

Oooh, but your drain though? No? Or am I just not seeing the benefits?

Isn't cholesterol (the ones in the jars marketed as such for hair purposes) more like a true conditioner?

Brethil
June 23rd, 2019, 11:28 AM
Part of the fun of having this much hair is doing wacky and slightly ill-advised things to it on occasion. This turned out way better than the time I used coconut milk as a pre-wash.

The look is definitely more appropriate for a costume than everyday wear. I would totally wear it for Halloween though. I did wear it out of the house to go to the store- it doesn't look bad, just rather extraordinary.

I wasn't planning on doing again until I had a reason to, but Loepsie has a new video out showing a hairstyle from the book, and I want to try it out! And there's a couple things I want to do differently from the last time. And it's the first day of a three day weekend for me. Hmm. Maybe you'll see some pictures in a bit.

lapushka
June 23rd, 2019, 03:24 PM
Apparently there's a book out. Might be nice to order!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgFAnc2AOJc

Brethil
June 23rd, 2019, 05:43 PM
I know about the book, but I can't see spending the money right now. It looks amazing though. Maybe after I get a new job... 20 bucks ain't bad, and it looks like a lot of fun.

Brethil
July 18th, 2019, 04:28 PM
I did it again! And took pictures this time!

This is before, hair brushed out:
https://imgur.com/ExlWPHe
And hair full of lard:
https://imgur.com/l9CweIL
Powdered hair loose:
https://imgur.com/IBb4nhr
Braided and pancaked to the extreme, since I wanted to play with the volume and hold this stuff gives compared to my fine, slippery normal hair. It's a bit messy, but I love how massive it is:
https://imgur.com/BR0CxtQ
I haven't done any updos yet, but I'm planning to keep this stuff in for at least three days and doing several things with it. Just haven't decided what. Maybe something based off the coiffure banane that Loepsie did a few weeks ago.

Please let me know whether the pictures work; it's my first time doing them.

lapushka
July 18th, 2019, 04:43 PM
I did it again! And took pictures this time!

This is before, hair brushed out:
https://imgur.com/ExlWPHe
And hair full of lard:
https://imgur.com/l9CweIL
Powdered hair loose:
https://imgur.com/IBb4nhr
Braided and pancaked to the extreme, since I wanted to play with the volume and hold this stuff gives compared to my fine, slippery normal hair. It's a bit messy, but I love how massive it is:
https://imgur.com/BR0CxtQ
I haven't done any updos yet, but I'm planning to keep this stuff in for at least three days and doing several things with it. Just haven't decided what. Maybe something based off the coiffure banane that Loepsie did a few weeks ago.

Please let me know whether the pictures work; it's my first time doing them.

I converted them to URLs and that seems to work!

Groovy Granny
July 18th, 2019, 05:04 PM
I did it again! And took pictures this time!

This is before, hair brushed out:
https://imgur.com/ExlWPHe
And hair full of lard:
https://imgur.com/l9CweIL
Powdered hair loose:
https://imgur.com/IBb4nhr
Braided and pancaked to the extreme, since I wanted to play with the volume and hold this stuff gives compared to my fine, slippery normal hair. It's a bit messy, but I love how massive it is:
https://imgur.com/BR0CxtQ
I haven't done any updos yet, but I'm planning to keep this stuff in for at least three days and doing several things with it. Just haven't decided what. Maybe something based off the coiffure banane that Loepsie did a few weeks ago.

Please let me know whether the pictures work; it's my first time doing them.

You have gorgeous hair :love:

TBH...I am glad we are not in that time.....looking at the video...the curling wand, teasing (ouch), grease and powder (yuck)....:tmi:

They must have kept that style in for a week ...or 2...or a month :hmm:

It has me scratching my scalp and thinking about a shampoo :lol:

Pretty to look at though :eye: :lol:

Brethil
July 18th, 2019, 05:04 PM
Thanks Lapushka! Do you know what I did wrong the first time? I used the 'Insert Image' button on the reply box.

Ylva
July 18th, 2019, 06:49 PM
Awesome photos!


They must have kept that style in for a week ...or 2...or a month :hmm:

I think several months. :D

Ylva
July 18th, 2019, 06:50 PM
Thanks Lapushka! Do you know what I did wrong the first time? I used the 'Insert Image' button on the reply box.

You didn't copy the image URL but the page URL. You need to paste the image URL. Copy it by right-clicking the photo and choosing to copy its URL.

Groovy Granny
July 18th, 2019, 08:26 PM
Awesome photos!



I think several months. :D
I can't even imagine :puke:

cheepcheep
July 19th, 2019, 06:48 AM
This actually reminds me a lot of this (she duplicates an 18th century hairbook's advice):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuplmblXNPs

If you looked any bit like her... I just... I wouldn't. ;)

Why put your hair through that amount of stress and manipulation?

Oh man, I was fine with this video until the backcombing started... But from then on it was like watching a horror movie :bigeyes: WHY WOULD YOU DO THAAAAAT?? :wail:


I did it again! And took pictures this time!

This is before, hair brushed out:
https://imgur.com/ExlWPHe
And hair full of lard:
https://imgur.com/l9CweIL
Powdered hair loose:
https://imgur.com/IBb4nhr
Braided and pancaked to the extreme, since I wanted to play with the volume and hold this stuff gives compared to my fine, slippery normal hair. It's a bit messy, but I love how massive it is:
https://imgur.com/BR0CxtQ
I haven't done any updos yet, but I'm planning to keep this stuff in for at least three days and doing several things with it. Just haven't decided what. Maybe something based off the coiffure banane that Loepsie did a few weeks ago.

Please let me know whether the pictures work; it's my first time doing them.

Wow Brethil you have amazing hair! I actually think it looks really cool powdered, sort of tribal somehow?? Just, please don't backcomb like in the video, you'll give me nightmares!

lapushka
July 19th, 2019, 07:37 AM
Thanks Lapushka! Do you know what I did wrong the first time? I used the 'Insert Image' button on the reply box.

Don't use that button. Just go to imgur, pick the BBCode, and paste that into a message. That's it!

Brethil
July 19th, 2019, 10:31 AM
Thanks everybody for the compliments! And thanks Lapushka and Ylva for the picture advice!

Don't quote me on this, cause I don't remember my source, but I believe that we don't have any shampoo recipes surviving from that era. Pomades, yes, powders, yes, tons of other cosmetics and things, yes, so they figure people didn't have specific shampoo back then.

Plocacosmos (https://archive.org/details/b28755674/page/246), a 1782 hairdressing manual, says that the hairstyle, with daily touchups, is good for "two or three months, or as long as the lady chuses, or till the hair gets strait and clotted, and matted with dirty powder; then it is absolutely necessary to comb it out." Which, ouch! The idea of combing out two months of teasing and powder is painful. And definitely gross.

I am not backcombing! Or curling. Just the bits that are reasonably hair-friendly. I figure I am basically oiling and dry shampooing my hair, though both to the extreme. I was very careful brushing it through this time, and lost about my normal amount of hair to the brush.

It's surprisingly fluffy and flowing. I expected it to be stiff and unbrushable, but it's not.

SwanFeathers
October 1st, 2020, 01:48 PM
Reviving this thread with my own experiment. I cooked up some pomatum with clean animal fat, clove oil, and beeswax, and mixed my own starch powder of corn starch, cinnamon and cloves. I started by making sure my hair was clean of any conditioners or cones, and waiting until the next day to be sure my hair was dry. Then, following the instruction of living history resources as to technique, I applied the pomatum until my hair looked freshly towel dried. I allowed this to soak in for about 10min, then began adding the starch powder with a fluffy makeup brush. I fluffed and powdered until there were no damp spots left, then combed through and lightly powdered again just to be sure I didn't miss anywhere.
I did this on a small section of my hair in case it was difficult to remove, but I needn't have bothered, it came out with regular shampoo.
https://i.postimg.cc/C51ShgPH/20201001-133205-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CBWW7WVz)

https://i.postimg.cc/76Xqr6VZ/20201001-134043-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/wytCh9ZC)

https://i.postimg.cc/T27TkK1k/20201001-140117.jpg (https://postimg.cc/F1Stzsjc)

https://i.postimg.cc/MHFxXFgk/20201001-140319.jpg (https://postimg.cc/sG7bNwVK)

https://i.postimg.cc/13NRVy9v/20201001-140709-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/QFhZRGK7)

https://i.postimg.cc/9F0QVGs5/20201001-140803-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/vcRst6Q3)

Results: I like it, it is very easy to comb (as good as my silicone serum!) And the animal fat in the pomatum conditions my hair better than oils or deep treatments have ever done. it really seems to help with the dryness of my climate. My hair is soft and cooperative, like after a mayonnaise treatment, not greasy or crunchy, and this is one of the most textured areas on my head where it loves to tangle! I will probably continue to experiment and practice, as I plan to get back into living history when the world figures out how to function again, but for now I'd say I'm a fan. Oh, and yes it washed out just fine, which is more than I can say for coconut oil.


A brief note: Another time is another culture, and we mustn't rush to judge prior periods for the methods they knew and used. People of the past practiced as much hygiene and self care as they could, as infection and desease were much more terrifying than we think of now. The clove oil and other spices are pest repellants we use even today, while the gentle combing out and reapplication of pomatum and powder gets rid of debris, oils and dead skin and loose hairs. (Much like the scritching and preening of sebum only) Nobody had rodents in their hair, and like today, it was the wretchedly poor who suffered most from louse and other parasites because their living conditions were so bad, not because of the style of their hair. I hope anyone curious gives it a try and let this be another option in your hair toolbox :)
You can get premade period products on etsy from LittleBits if you aren't up for a science experiment in your kitchen, they also have a youtube channel under the name of LBCC historical.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/120493879/natural-haircare-18th-century-clove?ref=shop_home_active_15&crt=1

shelomit
October 1st, 2020, 04:30 PM
Interesting experiment! My dad puts tallow in his beard. Never tried anything with powder, though!

Brethil
October 1st, 2020, 06:34 PM
Oh, yay, someone else who tries weird stuff! Your pomade and powder are a lot fancy than mine-I just used straight lard and cornstarch. Next time I'm definitely making pumpkin spice powder.

I'm glad it turned out so well for you. How long did you leave it in? Which animal fats did you use?

I would not say my hair was easy to comb while it was powdered. Not impossible, but not as easy as normal either. I wonder if that is a difference in the products or in our hair?

I like the idea of letting the pomade soak in before applying the power.

0xalis
October 1st, 2020, 08:52 PM
Welp, you learn something new every day :laugh:

TatsuOni
October 2nd, 2020, 05:07 AM
Thanks for sharing SwanFeathers! It was very interesting to read about your test! :)

SwanFeathers
October 2nd, 2020, 07:41 AM
Oh, yay, someone else who tries weird stuff! Your pomade and powder are a lot fancy than mine-I just used straight lard and cornstarch. Next time I'm definitely making pumpkin spice powder.

I'm glad it turned out so well for you. How long did you leave it in? Which animal fats did you use?

I would not say my hair was easy to comb while it was powdered. Not impossible, but not as easy as normal either. I wonder if that is a difference in the products or in our hair?

I like the idea of letting the pomade soak in before applying the power.

yes, come to the dark side of pumpkin spice! lol seriously though my house smells amazing.
I used a better quality pork lard (what my husband calls hippy lard from a fancy grocery store lol), with unfiltered/unrefined beeswax from my beekeeping neighbor. some of the recipes from the period call for "virgin wax" which some interpret as clean white wax, and some interpret as fresh wax that hasn't been processed, and since I happened to have access to unrefined wax I decided to use that. I think the residual honey in the wax has an extra conditioning factor, but more tests with filtered wax would be needed to know for sure. If I could get it locally, I would have added some mutton tallow, but for my area ordering it online is just too expensive. I left it in until my next wash day (5 days,) I didn't keep it separated from the rest of the hair after the first day, and just brushed it into my bun like normal. I should have taken another photo of it before I washed, because you could barely see the powder by the third day so it looked more like dry shampoo.

Brethil
October 2nd, 2020, 05:38 PM
yes, come to the dark side of pumpkin spice! lol seriously though my house smells amazing.
I used a better quality pork lard (what my husband calls hippy lard from a fancy grocery store lol), with unfiltered/unrefined beeswax from my beekeeping neighbor. some of the recipes from the period call for "virgin wax" which some interpret as clean white wax, and some interpret as fresh wax that hasn't been processed, and since I happened to have access to unrefined wax I decided to use that. I think the residual honey in the wax has an extra conditioning factor, but more tests with filtered wax would be needed to know for sure. If I could get it locally, I would have added some mutton tallow, but for my area ordering it online is just too expensive. I left it in until my next wash day (5 days,) I didn't keep it separated from the rest of the hair after the first day, and just brushed it into my bun like normal. I should have taken another photo of it before I washed, because you could barely see the powder by the third day so it looked more like dry shampoo.

When I do this again, I'm going to try to make proper pomatum as well. I too have a beekeeping neighbor! And I figure one of the local halal butchers probably sells mutton or goat, so I should be able to get some fat. I tried at one before the last time I powdered my hair, and boy did the lady give me a funny look when I asked for sheep fat! (They didn't have any so I just went with straight lard again.)

While I am in no hurry to do the whole pomade and powder thing again, (it's a lot of effort and quite a mess to do, and I don't want to wear it to work so I'd have to wash it out again after the weekend) I do plan on experimenting with animal fat some more as just a hair treatment. The American Duchess people say it behaves differently on the hair than any of the vegetable fats, which makes sense.

Where did you apply your powder? I did the first time in the bathtub, which was still a mess, and the second time outside, which was much wiser.

SwanFeathers
October 6th, 2020, 11:01 AM
Where did you apply your powder? I did the first time in the bathtub, which was still a mess, and the second time outside, which was much wiser.

Unfortunately I just stood in my bathroom,(BIG mistake!) but once I'd started there was no use in moving. I used the shower next when I decided to go ahead and do my whole head, and that was better. I'll post photos once the experiment ends on 10/23/20 when I hit the 3wk mark.