Science help with removing cones and oils

[MamaSwanky]

I've done some research on this topic, but I wonder if anyone else has more experience with this. Today I learned that Cocoamidopropyl Betaine in the first few ingredients means that the shampoo is 'clarifying' enough to remove silicone buildup. Which is a relief because I found 2 SheaMoisture shampoos I want to use to clarify with (Peace Rose Oil Complex Nourish and Silken / Sacha Inchi Oil Omega 3,6,9 Rescue and Repair Clarifying). However, I don't want to make the assumption that the CB will also remove a heavy oiling. That being said, my scalp gets itchy from shampoos that are too stripping.

I'm dipping my toes back into silicones because I've found my ends really like the extra protection. I don't use a ton and I use it only on my ends (nearing TBL), but I think I'll have to clarify at least once a month. I'd like to use the same shampoos to wash out heavy oilings as well because I don't want my product stash to get out of control. What say those with more knowledge?

Thanks for the help!

[Joules]

In terms of oils, there is a bulletproof way to wash them off easily and without stripping our hair: apply conditioner on oily hair. Emulsifiers in a conditioner will help you. Trust me.

In terms of silicones I have a theory and I would like someone to prove it for me :)

I love removing makeup with hydrophilic oils, the kind that contains emulsifiers to be able to dissolve in water, but it's still oil. It is the only king of makeup remover that completely disintegrates any makeup, including waterproof, and makeup is essentially silicones mixed with pigments. So when I have to use something with silicones on my hair (most of the time I'm cone-free), I make sure I do a deep oil treatment afterwards in hopes of oil dissolving cones. I hope my theory is right.

[Ophidian]

Have you tried cowashing oil out? Several here swear by it. If your scalp doesn’t like cowashing you can always do a scalp wash after with your normal shampoo.

[Larki]

Yup, thirding the conditioner recommendation. No shampoo ever removed oil as well as conditioner does for me.

[lapushka]

CB doesn't get out the tough silicones though, like pure "dimethicone" for example. So I would recommend a sulfate wash at least once a month, if only on the lengths where you put the silicones.

And if ever your hair feels "odd" and you don't know why: clarify with the sulfates.

Other than that, you should be fine.

[Ophidian]

Here’s a sciency hairblog article on silicones:
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/riffing-on-silicones.html?m=1
If you look at the study she cites at the end, it does seem to indicate that CB is also able to remove cones, in addition to sulfates. Probably worth more reading as there very well may be exceptions to this, but thought I’d put that out there.

[lapushka]

Here’s a sciency hairblog article on silicones:
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/riffing-on-silicones.html?m=1
If you look at the study she cites at the end, it does seem to indicate that CB is also able to remove cones, in addition to sulfates. Probably worth more reading as there very well may be exceptions to this, but thought I’d put that out there.

This is what it says at the end:

"2) 90% of silicone residue was removed with one shampooing with a silicone-free shampoo. The detergents sodium lauryl or sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl or laureth sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine (possible cocobetaine) are the ones to choose for removing silicone residue."

That "and" confuses me. Because any sulfate shampoo also has CB (and CB) in it. How is this to be interpreted?

[Kaya]

Another vote for straight up CO-washing. Never had any problem washing out a heavy oiling with a generous application of conditioner and a decent amount of time to soak in. :)

For the record, I've never used shampoo to get oil out.

[Ophidian]

Here's a better (more specific) article:
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2016/05/detergents-which-remove-silicones.html

The gist is that there is a huge list of anionic detergents that remove cones alone (stronger sulfates for example), or in combination (milder ones like sodium cocoyl glutamate). There is also a somewhat shorter list of amphoteric detergents (don't ask me what that means :)) that "likely help remove silicones, especially in combination with anionic surfactants but may work alone or with non-ionic detergents also. These detergents tend to make a formula milder." The second list includes CB.

So basically my read is that there are a lot of things that will remove cones, and that either strong sulfates OR milder detergents in combination will usually get the job done. I'm sure there are plenty of variables including the individual's hair and type of silicone. So back to another YMMV answer which usually seems to be the case :flower:, but it does look like sulfates aren't necessarily the only way to deal with cones if someone wants to use the latter but not the former.




This is what it says at the end:

"2) 90% of silicone residue was removed with one shampooing with a silicone-free shampoo. The detergents sodium lauryl or sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl or laureth sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine (possible cocobetaine) are the ones to choose for removing silicone residue."

That "and" confuses me. Because any sulfate shampoo also has CB (and CB) in it. How is this to be interpreted?

[lapushka]

Thanks for linking that article.

Myself, I have always needed a sulfate at some point, even when going sulfate-free. But this was more due to my scalp acting up than anything else.

Still, I'd say keeping a bottle, at least 1, of a sulfate shampoo around the house is smart thing to do, IMMHO. You never know. Just in case.

[Beeboo123]

I vote for washing oils out with conditioner too. Apply conditioner, leave it in for 5 minutes, and rinse with warm water. All the oils will be washed off!

[Ophidian]

Thanks for linking that article.

Myself, I have always needed a sulfate at some point, even when going sulfate-free. But this was more due to my scalp acting up than anything else.

Still, I'd say keeping a bottle, at least 1, of a sulfate shampoo around the house is smart thing to do, IMMHO. You never know. Just in case.

Sure, definitely can’t hurt :flower:.

[MamaSwanky]

Thank you all! This is exactly what I've been looking for. I use my gentle non SLS shampoo 3 out of 4 weekly washes then use my herbal essences clarifying shampoo the last one. I WCC which probably helps keep it from excess drying and no buildup so far!

[lapushka]

Thank you all! This is exactly what I've been looking for. I use my gentle non SLS shampoo 3 out of 4 weekly washes then use my herbal essences clarifying shampoo the last one. I WCC which probably helps keep it from excess drying and no buildup so far!

That sounds like you got a good routine going! :flower:

[Glitch]

Thank you all! This is exactly what I've been looking for. I use my gentle non SLS shampoo 3 out of 4 weekly washes then use my herbal essences clarifying shampoo the last one. I WCC which probably helps keep it from excess drying and no buildup so far!

I do the same thing and it works :) Except I only use the herbal essences shampoo after oilings so it's more frequent (maybe a few times a month).