Henna, cassia, amla recipe advice

[Antrax23]

Hi everyone,
I am planning to do a second henna:cassia application in a few weeks to get a bit more color and this time I want to add amla for my waves and the color. Last time I used a 40:60 henna:cassia mix with coconut milk and I would like to do something similar, last time I needed 200g total of powder + around half a can of coconut milk to cover my hole hair.
I've never used amla, so I have a few questions: how much amla should I use? should I mix it straight with the henna and cassia or mix it separately? does it need to dye release?

Thank you :)

[Nightshade]

Amla, despite posts to the contrary, really doesn't do much against the wave-weakening properties of henna. In the places where it helps, it's very short term. It does, however affect the color :)

Generally, you'll want an amount of amla equal to 1/3 the amount of henna. Since your cassia is just diluting the henna, for the most part, I would carve it out of there to make a place for the amla.

Using lazy math and rounding:

40g henna
15g amla
45g cassia

For 200g, just double the above amounts.

The henna and cassia powders together, dye release that with water. After the henna cassia mud has released dye, blend in the amla and coconut milk until you hit your desired consistency. The fat in coconut milk will inhibit dye release, so I don't recommend it with the initial release of henna and cassia. :)

[Antrax23]

Thank you Nightshade! I’m planning to prepare the mix and freeze it until I have time to do it. Does Amla freeze well?

[Nightshade]

Yes it does! :) But since you're freezing your henna, I'd recommend mixing in the amla after you thaw it. Frozen henna can change in consistency and it's a good opportunity to fine-tune it before applying it.

[LexI bright]

Amla, despite posts to the contrary, really doesn't do much against the wave-weakening properties of henna. In the places where it helps, it's very short term.

Bummer! Does amla help restore waves when used as a stand alone treatment after henna?

[Nightshade]

Bummer! Does amla help restore waves when used as a stand alone treatment after henna?

It can help for some people (didn't do a thing for me), but it's going to be short term. The wave-loosening of henna is a structural change to the hair (I'm guessing it has something to do with the lawsone binding to the keratin and making the hair shape more circular vs oval), and alma can't undo that.

[Antrax23]

Is the color change of amla permanent then?

[Nightshade]

Is the color change of amla permanent then?

If you mix it in with henna, yes, the resulting change in the color you get (amla generally cools down henna a bit) is permanent. Using amla on its own provides little to no color change and is not permanent.

[LexI bright]

It can help for some people (didn't do a thing for me), but it's going to be short term. The wave-loosening of henna is a structural change to the hair (I'm guessing it has something to do with the lawsone binding to the keratin and making the hair shape more circular vs oval), and alma can't undo that.

I think also the henna adds weight to hair. I notice it because my hair is super fine and lightweight. But the henna makes it feel heavier. So my theory is with multiple coats of henna, the hair gets heavier pulling out the wave. I know when I hennaed back in 2013, I did 5 or 6 full head applications. My hair was too heavy for my follicles and was coming out at the roots.

[Nightshade]

I think also the henna adds weight to hair. I notice it because my hair is super fine and lightweight. But the henna makes it feel heavier. So my theory is with multiple coats of henna, the hair gets heavier pulling out the wave. I know when I hennaed back in 2013, I did 5 or 6 full head applications. My hair was too heavy for my follicles and was coming out at the roots.

That makes sense :) If you have lawsone binding to your hair, it isn't like those molecules stop being affected by gravity once they do so.

[Antrax23]

Anyone knows what the actual oxidation reaction of the molecule is once it binds to the hair? (nerd here)

[Nightshade]

I don't, but I do know the method by which it binds is Michael Addition.

I did turn this (http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/dye-release.pdf)up, which has molecular information.

[Antrax23]

THank you! That’s very nice information to have