Article about not using coconut oil or Shea butter

[Flipgirl24]

I came across this article on another forum I'm a part of. It is mainly for African American women but I wondered what you thought about this since many of you use coconut oil and Shea butter.

http://blackdoctor.org/470909/7-reasons-to-stop-using-coconut-oil-and-shea-butter-on-your-hair/

What are your thoughts?

[Eastbound&Down]

Eh, I'm sure for some people those things apply, or overusing either oil could potentially cause issues, but I have never had an issue with coconut oil.

[Kajzh]

The article mainly focuses on haircare habits that we have in the black community that ultimately stem from misinformation.

To most of us black folk, slathering your hair in coconut oil or shea butter moisturizes it. As you know, that's NOT TRUE. Oils can act as occlusive sealants to help retain water, but if you put oil on dry hair, the hydrophobic properties of those substances will make dry hair even dryer!

We also tend to wash our hair every 2-4+ weeks without getting it wet in between washes. So you can see how excessive oiling can be a huge threat to hair on that kind of washing schedule.

I definitely give similar advice to my clients when they consult me for crafting a haircare regimen. If you have kinky hair and don't wash a lot, then you'll want to focus on humectants rather than occlusives.

[Larki]

The article mainly focuses on haircare habits that we have in the black community that ultimately stem from misinformation.

To most of us black folk, slathering your hair in coconut oil or shea butter moisturizes it. As you know, that's NOT TRUE. Oils can act as occlusive sealants to help retain water, but if you put oil on dry hair, the hydrophobic properties of those substances will make dry hair even dryer!

We also tend to wash our hair every 2-4+ weeks without getting it wet in between washes. So you can see how excessive oiling can be a huge threat to hair on that kind of washing schedule.

I definitely give similar advice to my clients when they consult me for crafting a haircare regimen. If you have kinky hair and don't wash a lot, then you'll want to focus on humectants rather than occlusives.

So oil or shea butter on wet hair is okay?

[Kajzh]

So oil or shea butter on wet hair is okay?

It works best on damp hair that has just been clarified or in conjunction with the LOC/LCO method.

[Flipgirl24]

The article mainly focuses on haircare habits that we have in the black community that ultimately stem from misinformation.

To most of us black folk, slathering your hair in coconut oil or shea butter moisturizes it. As you know, that's NOT TRUE. Oils can act as occlusive sealants to help retain water, but if you put oil on dry hair, the hydrophobic properties of those substances will make dry hair even dryer!

We also tend to wash our hair every 2-4+ weeks without getting it wet in between washes. So you can see how excessive oiling can be a huge threat to hair on that kind of washing schedule.

I definitely give similar advice to my clients when they consult me for crafting a haircare regimen. If you have kinky hair and don't wash a lot, then you'll want to focus on humectants rather than occlusives.

Thank you Kaizh! Now it makes sense. But I have the same question as Larki. If hair is wet then would the oils keep the water in the hair?

[gypsycolleen]

The article makes sense. And explains why, when I put oil on dry ends, they still seem dry.
So should we dampen hair before putting oil on it? Or forego oil all together?

[Robot Ninja]

I was under the impression that co-washing was really good for removing oils. Or did I read some bad information somewhere?

And this part:

You got coconut oil everywhere…it’s on your shirt, in your eye (and it’s burning!), on your man. In fact, you could caress your hands through your hair and still use it to moisturize your entire body. It isn’t necessary for your favorite shirt, eyes or man to suffer through your coconut oil abuse.

made me giggle.

[Kajzh]

Flipgirl24, g*psycolleen, see my comment above. It works best in conjunction with LOC/LCO, but simply putting it over damp hair can help.


I was under the impression that co-washing was really good for removing oils. Or did I read some bad information somewhere?


That's bad information. Co-washing doesn't remove much buildup, and if you co-wash, you need to clarify on some sort of interval schedule to remove buildup.

[spidermom]

I think it's opinion, not science. For example, in the strictest sense of definition, moisture DOES NOT = water. Moisture is anything that relieves dryness, such as emollients (lotions, creams). Oils most definitely relieve dryness. As a matter of fact, if - for an example that most anybody can verify for themselves immediately - the lips are dry, oil is going to relieve that dryness better than water will. As for hair, YMMV.

[Kajzh]

Moisture might not transitively equal water, but hydration does — "hydr-" being Greek for "water." If you want hydrated hair, you'll have to attract water molecules to the cortex and encourage them to stay.

In my opinion, emollients don't usually serve the same functions between hair and skin.

[animetor7]

The article mainly focuses on haircare habits that we have in the black community that ultimately stem from misinformation.

To most of us black folk, slathering your hair in coconut oil or shea butter moisturizes it. As you know, that's NOT TRUE. Oils can act as occlusive sealants to help retain water, but if you put oil on dry hair, the hydrophobic properties of those substances will make dry hair even dryer!

We also tend to wash our hair every 2-4+ weeks without getting it wet in between washes. So you can see how excessive oiling can be a huge threat to hair on that kind of washing schedule.

I definitely give similar advice to my clients when they consult me for crafting a haircare regimen. If you have kinky hair and don't wash a lot, then you'll want to focus on humectants rather than occlusives.

The hydrophobic properties of water are neither here nor there in terms of water from the air and oils. Also not all oils are effective occlusive, the ones that are include mineral oil, olive oil, and other "heavier" oils that have molecules to large to penetrate the hair shaft. Others like coconut or jojoba oil do penetrate the hair shaft and help to moisturize the hair. As for hydration vs moisture. Yes emollients won't hydrate, but water doesn't stay in hair well anyway, so when people say their hair is dry, moisture, and therefore an emollient is going to help more than water will. The purpose of dampening ends before piling is to help penetrative emollients penetrate better, not to lock hydration in. The oil molecules are too much larger than water molecules to prevent evaporation. That said it's important to experiment to find what works and different hair will have different levels of porosity which affects which oils will penetrate your hair in particular.

[Kajzh]

It's true; I don't consider coconut oil a particularly occlusive substance, whereas jojoba tends to be very much so due to its status as a wax ester. Especially given hair porosities, some people will find that penetrating oils such as coconut and babassu will work when applied to dry hair. But others will need to use "layering" techniques, e.g., LOC and LCO, to see benefits from it. As you said, everyone is different and will need to experiment, because there is no one piece of advice that fits all.

[Nymphe]

The main problem I see with this article is the confusion between moisture and hydration (water-filled) - a moisturizer helps keep hair hydrated longer. The problem the overuse of these oils causes is locking water out, especially coconut oil since it can penetrate and act like a protein treatment gone bad (hard hair). What I mean by overuse is not clarifying the hair enough, just piling it on without removing the old build-up so water can hydrated the strands. That is what the article was trying to address. Some people are switching to others oils because they are having trouble with these two making their hair hard and tangly.

For me, my hair actually became more hydrated when I discovered oil rinsing with castor and hempseed oils, and years later dropped conditioner altogether. I have the pics to prove it as well.

[EbonyCurls]

For some reason misting my hair with water after oiling, brushing, and braiding (bedtime), gives me soft hair in the morning. Even though I am applying the oil first, it seems maybe water can still get absorbed if it's done at the same time...before the oil can bond or absorb into the hair??? (I'm not scientist so just guessing). I always had difficulty applying and spreading oil on damp hair, so this was my compromise.

And interesting thing about water evaporating from hair every 4-7 days , Kajzh. I tried to go with one per week washes, but my hair would be SO DRY by the 4th or 5th day, amongst other things as well. Washing twice a week (or every 3rd or 4th day) seems to keep my hair supply without having to add any more moisture except a light oiling and misting in between.

[Flipgirl24]

It works best on damp hair that has just been clarified or in conjunction with the LOC/LCO method.

So then if I clarify once a month then I should oil my hair once a month? Is there any point in doing it, let's say every time I wash? (Probably 2 to 3 times a week)

[Flipgirl24]

The hydrophobic properties of water are neither here nor there in terms of water from the air and oils. Also not all oils are effective occlusive, the ones that are include mineral oil, olive oil, and other "heavier" oils that have molecules to large to penetrate the hair shaft. Others like coconut or jojoba oil do penetrate the hair shaft and help to moisturize the hair. As for hydration vs moisture. Yes emollients won't hydrate, but water doesn't stay in hair well anyway, so when people say their hair is dry, moisture, and therefore an emollient is going to help more than water will. The purpose of dampening ends before piling is to help penetrative emollients penetrate better, not to lock hydration in. The oil molecules are too much larger than water molecules to prevent evaporation. That said it's important to experiment to find what works and different hair will have different levels of porosity which affects which oils will penetrate your hair in particular.
Interesting. Thanks for this!

[calmyogi]

For some reason misting my hair with water after oiling, brushing, and braiding (bedtime), gives me soft hair in the morning. Even though I am applying the oil first, it seems maybe water can still get absorbed if it's done at the same time...before the oil can bond or absorb into the hair??? (I'm not scientist so just guessing). I always had difficulty applying and spreading oil on damp hair, so this was my compromise.

And interesting thing about water evaporating from hair every 4-7 days , Kajzh. I tried to go with one per week washes, but my hair would be SO DRY by the 4th or 5th day, amongst other things as well. Washing twice a week (or every 3rd or 4th day) seems to keep my hair supply without having to add any more moisture except a light oiling and misting in between.

I have also noticed that stretching washes can cause my hair to be dryer as well. More so in the winter, I think when the atmosphere is dry. In the summer it's humid so when I'm outdoors my skin and hair stay nice and moisturized. I assume if I lived somewhere That was dryer year round I would experience the same thing.

[lapushka]

So then if I clarify once a month then I should oil my hair once a month? Is there any point in doing it, let's say every time I wash? (Probably 2 to 3 times a week)

I use it each time I wash, but I weekly wash, and wash with sulfates, so it clarifies to some extent weekly. I use the LOC/LCO method (link is in signature if you're interested) and it works well.

[Kajzh]

The main problem I see with this article is the confusion between moisture and hydration (water-filled) - a moisturizer helps keep hair hydrated longer. The problem the overuse of these oils causes is locking water out, especially coconut oil since it can penetrate and act like a protein treatment gone bad (hard hair). What I mean by overuse is not clarifying the hair enough, just piling it on without removing the old build-up so water can hydrated the strands. That is what the article was trying to address. Some people are switching to others oils because they are having trouble with these two making their hair hard and tangly.

For me, my hair actually became more hydrated when I discovered oil rinsing with castor and hempseed oils, and years later dropped conditioner altogether. I have the pics to prove it as well.

I agree. The explanations in the article are targeted toward .... culturally popular bad habits we have specifically in the Afro-textured hair community. But if you know what you're doing, are on a good schedule, and don't go overboard, you can definitely be more successful if you include butters and oils in your regimen. So while some of the critique in the article is 100% true, I still don't think it logically leads to the conclusion that you shouldn't use them at ALL.

[Entangled]

It definitely was different than the advice I'd give to someone else with my skin and hair. I wash every other day, so I like coconut oil and how it may reduce hydral fatigue.

[animetor7]

So then if I clarify once a month then I should oil my hair once a month? Is there any point in doing it, let's say every time I wash? (Probably 2 to 3 times a week)

I only clarify once a month to once every three months and I use coconut oil almost every day. The trick is to find out which oils work for you and to not overdo it. I oil every day, but only a tiny amount, and a little heavier before wash day, that way the oil is absorbing and not just sitting on top of my hair. It's also important to learn how to recognize buildup. For me, buildup leads to hair that gets lank and greasy much faster than it normally does, as well as some unusual dryness on my ends. But other experience more tangles, or extreme dryness. A good rule of thumb in my experience is to try clarifying if your hair is acting differently in a any negative way. If the odd hair behavior goes away, then that means you've found out how your hair acts when it needs to be clarified, if it doesn't go away, you'll need to troubleshoot more. I hope this helps!! :)

[Flipgirl24]

I only clarify once a month to once every three months and I use coconut oil almost every day. The trick is to find out which oils work for you and to not overdo it. I oil every day, but only a tiny amount, and a little heavier before wash day, that way the oil is absorbing and not just sitting on top of my hair. It's also important to learn how to recognize buildup. For me, buildup leads to hair that gets lank and greasy much faster than it normally does, as well as some unusual dryness on my ends. But other experience more tangles, or extreme dryness. A good rule of thumb in my experience is to try clarifying if your hair is acting differently in a any negative way. If the odd hair behavior goes away, then that means you've found out how your hair acts when it needs to be clarified, if it doesn't go away, you'll need to troubleshoot more. I hope this helps!! :)

Yes you have helped me a great deal! Thank you so much!

[Flipgirl24]

I use it each time I wash, but I weekly wash, and wash with sulfates, so it clarifies to some extent weekly. I use the LOC/LCO method (link is in signature if you're interested) and it works well.

Thank you lapushka!