Vintage styling and tips for healthy hair...

[RavenRose]

So I have been a fan of vintage/rockabilly styles for quite a while. I am not seeing any recent threads that address how to achieve some of these styles with out all the chemical and mechanical treatments.

For me I never use heat styling. So instead of using curling irons I would do a overnight wetset of pin curls or foam rollers. I would always make sure my ends were smoothed under, and sleep with a cap on. It was always very protected.

Because my hair dosn't like to hold a curl without help, I do need tto use a setting lotion. My favorite is actually a homemade flax seed gel with a touch of honey. This lead to softer curls, but was always more manageable and hydrating, where as other setting lotions where drying. Recently I have discovered that coconut oil hepls my hair keep shape of my braids very well, even if putting up dry.

I often prefered 40's style curls because the style was a bit sleeker requiring less volume. If I did want some volume Instead of teasing I would gently work in some dry shampoo into my roots and gently fluff. Also giving hair a half twist and pushing forward added volume.

Generally I misted my hair and repined the curls At night I would have soft bouncy curls on day 1 loose curls on day 2, and with help of dry shampoo waves on day 3.

There are many styles also that are updos that are very fitting with vintage styles. A few face framing wavys, curls or rolls, then the rest can easily be put into a Gibson roll/tuck or buns, add a hair flower or vintage style clip.

My grandma had MBL length hair through the 40's and her mom had classic length hair, and often wore simple buns/braid buns, with waves or rolls near her face. Grandma says it wasn't uncommon for girls to have waist length hair, to get APL/shoulder curls. She said most didn't tease, would go a week without washing, and she often use borax to wash her hair and egg for a condtiomer, and cornstarch for greasiness. Until the mid 50's and perms became a thing, hair was shorter but was still pin up and protected for sleep or house work.

[RavenRose]

Another tip from Grandma!

Head scarves! Everyone had a few, and was a daily practical style, specially those married or with kids. They covered uncurled or messy/dirty hair, but also protected hair from dirt, sub, or mechanical damage.

[Gamma Vector]

Once I started doing historical styles - particularly 19th century/early 20th century styles - I realized what that old bit about "I've just washed my hair and I can't do a thing with it!" meant. Most older styles really do work better on hair that's at least slightly greasy.

For me, I've found that a homemade texturizing spray of sea salt, water, and a few drops of glycerin gives me the grip I need to keep my hair in a gibson girl, victory rolls, etc.

Also, hair rats. I can't talk enough about hair rats. And amish pins. Those are my secrets to gibson girl type updos, every time.

[meteor]

I find Veronica Lake styles the easiest - they only take roller-setting, but they do stretch out a lot on very long hair.
I like everything based on rag curls or roller sets, because it's not really damaging and easy to do.
Also, vintage updos from 50's - 60's are pretty easy, especially with hair donuts: like this one on Grace Kelly (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/f8/92/16/f8921631c675972bcd440253bb7c15b2.jpg), for example.

20's - 30's styles are hard to do on long hair though, because the standard was pretty short hair (usually in pin curls). And Gibson Girl hair (http://anglotopia.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/1024px-Nancy-Astor-590x425.jpg)... hmm, I have no idea how to create that root volume without backcombing or hair rats? :hmm:

[Gamma Vector]

As for gibson girls, you cannot do it without a rat. You could backcomb the ever living hell out of it, but even then, unless you have A LOT of hair, it won't work. You absolutely have to use a rat. Rats were used at the time, and we still need them today. Preferably, you want one that's close to your hair color, so that it doesn't show through any thin spots.

[meteor]

^ You are right, Gamma Vector. :agree: They certainly used hair rats (I think, usually at least 2 elongated big ones per style), made from own hair, collected in those special hair receivers of porcelain that we can still sometimes find in antique shops. :)

I wonder if something circular like this (http://www.intimelyfashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/gibsonupdo2-190x300.jpg) could be perfect for recreating the Gibson Girl look (http://www.intimelyfashion.com/2008/07/21/gibson-girl-updo/) without any damage for those who don't have hair rats? :)

[RavenRose]

Meteor- I to like Veronica lake and Grace Kelly. Right now with my hair almost APL I can do quite a few Ginger Rogers, or more often Lauren Bacall/Gene Tierney type styles.

I found gently working in dry shampoo can make it easier to get root volume- but nowhere near enough for Gibson style!

told me once that after the stockings were to worn out to use they would be used as rag rollers, or stuffed with cotton for rats.

I have been able to do to the slicked back flapper impression with using hair around my face to create finger waves, and some small (tiny) side buns, and hiding the rest of my hair in a bun on top of my under a hat.

http://www.allthingsgirly.biz/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20s-fashion-for-women-9egta63k.jpg

[Gamma Vector]

^ You are right, Gamma Vector. :agree: They certainly used hair rats (I think, usually at least 2 elongated big ones per style), made from own hair, collected in those special hair receivers of porcelain that we can still sometimes find in antique shops. :)

I wonder if something circular like this (http://www.intimelyfashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/gibsonupdo2-190x300.jpg) could be perfect for recreating the Gibson Girl look (http://www.intimelyfashion.com/2008/07/21/gibson-girl-updo/) without any damage for those who don't have hair rats? :)

Yep, that circular thingy gives you volume all the way around. Just pin it on, pull your hair gently up over it, fix a bun on the top and voilà!

I've made rats out of my own hair, but it's honestly a pain. Beauty supply stores often sell mesh hair rats in a few different colors, and I KNOW you can find them for cheap on amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RTUFV6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002RTZXOU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01WS3QN092HYD0NFCYMZ).

You can also make them using old stockings, but they're more difficult to pin in than the mesh ones. I have quite a few mesh rats, and I love them to pieces. Very easy to wash, too.

If you want the feel of a gibson girl style without using rats, the best thing to do is aim for volume at the front and sides forward of the ears, leading back into a big fluffy bun. A little dry shampoo or third-day hair (greasy roots, but not horribly stringy yet) will help a lot. What I do then is make a horizontal part across my head just in front of both ears, and brush that forward. Brush it well so that there are no bumps, and it's all in your face. Then give it a half-twist near your hairline, and start pulling it carefully back upright. Pin the halftwist to the crown of your head with a couple of bobby pins. Your bun will go right below those pins and overlap a bit so as to hide them. Now, you should have a horrid looking wall of hair at your hairline. Take a soft brush and start smoothing it into a better shape. Pin it down on the sides, near your ears, but leave it as loose and fluffy as you can stand to. Then, take the ends, and ponytail them up with the remainder of your hair. Twist the ponytail into a loose, fluffy bun of your choice. I would recommend something secured with pins rather than a fork or stick, because you don't want to pull on the front of the hair at all if you can help it. Anchor the bun to the rear portion of your hair which isn't incorporated in the bump up front.

That method takes some getting used to, but with practice it goes up quite quickly. I used to wear it on a pretty much daily basis. No backcombing, no fussing with rats. It's not as voluminous or sturdy as a gibson girl done with rats, though. But for everyday, it works really well.

[Alexandra.]

If you want the feel of a gibson girl style without using rats, the best thing to do is aim for volume at the front and sides forward of the ears, leading back into a big fluffy bun....

That method takes some getting used to, but with practice it goes up quite quickly. I used to wear it on a pretty much daily basis. No backcombing, no fussing with rats. It's not as voluminous or sturdy as a gibson girl done with rats, though. But for everyday, it works really well.

Any chance of you showing us how you do this with photos?

[valkyrje]

I love pin up/rockabilly hairstyles and the style in general. I've tried more than once to achieve some victory rolls on my fine hair but it's been impossible. Has anyone with fine hair managed to roll those?

[RavenRose]

I have fine thin hair- I found that I must do an overnight wet set using a setting lotion, so I actually have some curl. Also dry shampoo/power at the roots helps not make hair so slippery. Also I find that day 2 hair works best for me- just enough grease to make the powder to stay a bit, but not to greasy for it to slip out. If you are looking for video tutorials Lisa Fremont Street On youtube has fine thin hair.

[valkyrje]

Thanks for the tip! She has some interesting videos and it's probably the only person that makes vintage hair tutorials that I can relate to.

[Veridical Angel]

I'm have a rat I don't use it anymore but I took a jar and kept it in the bathroom and when I combed my hair and my hair fell out, i put it in the jar. I had enough to make a rat with clean hair that matches my hair color. Since thwn, I've lost about half of my hair. Maybe I better start using it again haha

[Gamma Vector]

Any chance of you showing us how you do this with photos?

Actually, I could make a video for it, I think. The only trouble is that I have a sidecut now (the left side of my head is buzzed), so I can't actually do the style properly. But I think I could still show you how to do it on the one side and center part. I'll have to play with it some and see how it goes. :)