Questions on Build Up, Protein, and Moisture

[griffinthecat]

I’ve been reading the forums, and I have some questions that I’m sure have been mentioned a bazillion times. The search function isn’t working too well for me, so I thought I’d ask. I also tried to google it, but all I found were tons of articles for hair that is on the opposite side of the hair spectrum. I didn’t know if the same advice would work.

My hair has gone through some trauma this last year and half. I had the natural color lifted multiple times; some low lights, then dyed back to my natural color (twice). I loved the lifted color, but not the upkeep. I’m noticing that something seems off and I’d love some help figuring it out. It’s not quite a shiny as it used to be, and the very ends seem a bit unruly. It’s still super slippery, but not as glossy. I use the Paul Mitchell Awapuhi line (Shampoo, Cream Rinse and Keratin treatment) every day. I just started CWC this last week.

How do I tell if it’s from too much build up? I did a few vinegar rinses prior to washing to try and break stuff up, but not sure if that’s the culprit.
I know I am using protein every day. How can I tell if I have overdosed on protein?
I don’t know about my hair moisture levels. The websites all suggest stretching tests, but that seems damaging. I think there is some give on hair tangles when I am finger combing through. How can I tell if I need a moisture treatment?

What does my poor hair need?

[nobeltonya]

Maybe you should try using moisturizing products without protein, just to see if maybe you've had too much. My hair totally rebels when I use anything with protein, mineral oil, etc. Also, try clarifying by adding a small amount of baking soda to your shampoo when you wash [I do this about once a week and it's awesome :D]. But I only tried the vinegar rinse once and didn't like it.. but if it works for you, do it. :D I just started using the OGX line, particularly the Sea Mineral Moisture shampoo and conditioner, and I LOVE it! :D I just wish I could find a matching leave-in [I've used Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Intensely Smooth leave-in cream for about 3.5 years now, and it still works with this s/c]. :disco:

[divinedobbie]

Maybe you should try using moisturizing products without protein, just to see if maybe you've had too much. My hair totally rebels when I use anything with protein, mineral oil, etc. Also, try clarifying by adding a small amount of baking soda to your shampoo when you wash [I do this about once a week and it's awesome :D]. But I only tried the vinegar rinse once and didn't like it.. but if it works for you, do it. :D I just started using the OGX line, particularly the Sea Mineral Moisture shampoo and conditioner, and I LOVE it! :D I just wish I could find a matching leave-in [I've used Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Intensely Smooth leave-in cream for about 3.5 years now, and it still works with this s/c]. :disco:

Is there a correlation between these :hmm: Or does your hair just happen to not like both of these?

[Panth]

To find out if it's product build up, simply wash with a clarifying shampoo (it will say "clarifying" on the label - this is basically a shampoo with a higher concentration of surfactants and no coating/moisturising ingredients in it - you do need to buy by the label, though, because ingredients lists do not give actual concentrations, only order of concentration).

If it's mineral build up (possible if you have hard water), wash with a chelating/swimmer's shampoo (these are different and are formulated with a high concentration of chelating agents (e.g. EDTA) that will remove the minerals - be they limescale, iron (e.g. from certain well water), chorine (from swimming pools - not a mineral, but still removed the same way).

Vinegar rinses (contrary to the pervasive myth) do not either clarify or chelate. Used at the correct dilution (~1 tsp to ~1 large cup water) they will a) revert your scalp to its optimal acidic pH (which is good for scalp health and can help discourage, though not cure, fungal infections), b) help to flatten the cuticle of your hair down, increasing shine and c) help discourage/slow mineral build up (however, it's not strong enough to actually remove build up and increasing the strength will make the vinegar start to do damage).

That all said, it's quite possible that the problem with your hair is not build up (or not just build up) but rather that you've just done too much for it and it finally has reached the straw that breaks the camel's back. Do you heat style? Use extensions? Back-comb or do other damaging styling techniques? The bleach alone will do a lot of damage (which is cumulative and irreversible). Likewise, if you used either a demi-permanent or a permanent dye to get it back to your natural colour, that is going to have added damage, too, as both of those dye types use developer which is ... more bleach. I suggest you have a read of Nightshade's advice for rehabilitating damaged hair (http://web.archive.org/web/20120125071723/http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/vbjournal.php?do=article&articleid=79) but also realise that the damage you've done is irreversible and the only real cure is scissors. (You can, of course, cut out the damage slowly - no need for a big chop unless you want to.)

[lapushka]

I'd try and start with a clarifying wash (regular sulfate, no silicone shampoo will do). Then try a regular conditioner (no protein) after. I'd keep that as my constant, and now and then switch it up with the protein stuff. Vinegar rinses don't clarify.

[meteor]

To find out if it's product build up, simply wash with a clarifying shampoo (it will say "clarifying" on the label - this is basically a shampoo with a higher concentration of surfactants and no coating/moisturising ingredients in it - you do need to buy by the label, though, because ingredients lists do not give actual concentrations, only order of concentration).

If it's mineral build up (possible if you have hard water), wash with a chelating/swimmer's shampoo (these are different and are formulated with a high concentration of chelating agents (e.g. EDTA) that will remove the minerals - be they limescale, iron (e.g. from certain well water), chorine (from swimming pools - not a mineral, but still removed the same way).

Vinegar rinses (contrary to the pervasive myth) do not either clarify or chelate. Used at the correct dilution (~1 tsp to ~1 large cup water) they will a) revert your scalp to its optimal acidic pH (which is good for scalp health and can help discourage, though not cure, fungal infections), b) help to flatten the cuticle of your hair down, increasing shine and c) help discourage/slow mineral build up (however, it's not strong enough to actually remove build up and increasing the strength will make the vinegar start to do damage).

That all said, it's quite possible that the problem with your hair is not build up (or not just build up) but rather that you've just done too much for it and it finally has reached the straw that breaks the camel's back. Do you heat style? Use extensions? Back-comb or do other damaging styling techniques? The bleach alone will do a lot of damage (which is cumulative and irreversible). Likewise, if you used either a demi-permanent or a permanent dye to get it back to your natural colour, that is going to have added damage, too, as both of those dye types use developer which is ... more bleach. I suggest you have a read of Nightshade's advice for rehabilitating damaged hair (http://web.archive.org/web/20120125071723/http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/vbjournal.php?do=article&articleid=79) but also realise that the damage you've done is irreversible and the only real cure is scissors. (You can, of course, cut out the damage slowly - no need for a big chop unless you want to.)

^ I agree absolutely! :agree: And I love that article by Nightshade! :)

I just wanted to add that it's very possible for bleached or otherwise damaged hair to need both hydrolyzed proteins (because the hair cuticle is compromised and needs additional "scaffolding structure") and moisture (because damaged hair is porous and loses moisture faster, a bit like a "sponge" so to speak). Virgin hair, on the other hand, may do well on cleansing alone! Damaged hair needs a lot more TLC and more ingredients penetrate damaged hair and should be used in conditioners. (See a list of ingredients that penetrate damaged vs. virgin hair here: http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2012/10/deep-conditioning-what-ingredients-in.html.) But if hair feels consistently coated, tangly, brittle, it's a very good idea to start by clarifying and, if that doesn't work, chelating. Always follow clarifying/chelating with an intense conditioning, to avoid stripped feeling and add slip.

Also, Science-y Hair Blog has a nice chart for troubleshooting haircare routine issues (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AkdyreClg3g/U4t6hyGNLaI/AAAAAAAAA7c/2M1nKYsRe-k/s1600/hair_hierarchy.jpg) that might be of help - http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.ca/2014/06/creating-hair-care-routine-and.html.
HTH! :flower: