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View Full Version : What are the exact benefits of oiling?



GetMeToWaist
August 16th, 2014, 09:10 AM
So i read somewhere on here that oiling doesnt moisturise your hair, and sometimes it can dry it out and reduce moisture. What are the exact benefits then? And for coconut oil especially. Thank you :blossom:

Wosie
August 16th, 2014, 09:46 AM
Oils seal. If you first put something moisturizing on your hair and then apply oil, the moisture should be sealed and somewhat locked in. Some oils (e.g. coconut oil and olive oil) penetrate the hair to some extent and help to make them less porous.

(Please tell me if I've understood things wrong, people! But that's what I've learned, essentially.)

Madora
August 16th, 2014, 09:51 AM
Here is some information that might be of interest:
http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2013/09/advantages-of-coconut-and-argan-oils.html


http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.ca/2011/12/understanding-drying-capacity-of-oils.html

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Caraid♫
August 16th, 2014, 10:03 AM
I always thought that oil did moisterize hair, in that it keeps hair from drying out, kind of like how people oil wood to keep it from drying out. Don't cite me on that though because I don't actually know the science behind it, that's just always what I had thought. But based on what I notice in my own hair, I would say that it's moisterizing because when I oil, my hair has softer ends, less brittle feeling hair, and extra shininess (I use coconut oil, a non-drying oil according to the article Madora linked to :) )
If you havn't tried coconut oil, I recommend trying it out and seeing if it has benefits for your hair!

meteor
August 16th, 2014, 10:03 AM
Primarily these:
- increasing hair elasticity: the hair is better prepared to resist mechanical damage of grooming and handling hair, daily wear and tear;
- reducing hair porosity: damaged/porous hair has raised/chipped hair cuticle that should be temporarily patch-repaired, this is important when you are exposing hair to harsh chemicals, like bleach, lye, or even regular detergents.
- "moisturizing" hair as in providing emollience, lubrication and occlusion ("sealing moisture"): this helps hair keep its moisture balance and not frizz up/dry out in very humid and very dry environments.

I highly recommend reading this article on making hair oils work for you: http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.ca/2014/03/oil-pre-shampoo-or-pre-wash.html

There are many ways of making oils work for you:
- pre-poo oiling (a few hours before wash, ideally): choose penetrating oils like coconut, avocado, olive, etc
- leave-in oils (a couple drops): choose light oils, like mineral oil
- adding oils to conditioners / hair treatments
- adding oils to shampoo
- using oils before any exposure to aggressive environment for hair: before swimming, before bleaching, etc

Johannah
August 16th, 2014, 10:04 AM
Oils seal. If you first put something moisturizing on your hair and then apply oil, the moisture should be sealed and somewhat locked in. Some oils (e.g. coconut oil and olive oil) penetrate the hair to some extent and help to make them less porous.

(Please tell me if I've understood things wrong, people! But that's what I've learned, essentially.)

Yes, this.

Interesting articles that explain everything into detail:
Number 1. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/02/part-1-water-is-perhaps-not-moisturiser.html)
Number 2. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/02/part-2-necessity-of-oils.html)
Number 3. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/02/readers-questions-moisture-issue-so-far.html)
Number 4. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2009/07/reader-questions-coconut-oil-before.html)

spidermom
August 16th, 2014, 10:06 AM
I always thought that oil did moisterize hair, in that it keeps hair from drying out, kind of like how people oil wood to keep it from drying out. Don't cite me on that though because I don't actually know the science behind it, that's just always what I had thought. But based on what I notice in my own hair, I would say that it's moisterizing because when I oil, my hair has softer ends, less brittle feeling hair, and extra shininess (I use coconut oil, a non-drying oil according to the article Madora linked to :) )
If you havn't tried coconut oil, I recommend trying it out and seeing if it has benefits for your hair!

You are right. Penetrating oils, like coconut, replace essential fatty acids that are part of the hair's structure as it emerges from the follicle but are lost as hair grows and gets weathered.

meteor
August 16th, 2014, 10:17 AM
Yes, this.

Interesting articles that explain everything into detail:
Number 1. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/02/part-1-water-is-perhaps-not-moisturiser.html)
Number 2. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/02/part-2-necessity-of-oils.html)
Number 3. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/02/readers-questions-moisture-issue-so-far.html)
Number 4. (http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2009/07/reader-questions-coconut-oil-before.html)

Excellent articles, Johannah! :thumbsup: I love the Natural Haven Bloom Blog and highly recommend it for casual reading. I wanted to add some of them to my post, but was afraid of causing "information overload". :)

Back to OP's original question on specifically coconut oil: there is old, much-cited research that showed that hair pre-treated overnight with coconut oil suffered significantly less protein loss during normal washing. The thing is, washing tends to somewhat deplete hair protein (keratin), possibly due to wet handling, exposure to detergents, swelling and de-swelling of hair cuticle (hygral fatigue). A penetrative oil like coconut creates a protective film and also binds to hair protein, protecting it in aggressive environments.

The stiffness that can happen with application of coconut oil is probably due to OVER-oiling, using too much (believe me, it's very easy to overdo) or due to coconut oil solidifying in cooler temperatures.

Firefox7275
August 20th, 2014, 04:14 PM
Oils do not moisturise (add or increase water), they are anhydrous and oil and water do not mix.

http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc1999/cc050n06/p00327-p00339.pdf
http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc2003/cc054n02/p00175-p00192.pdf

meteor
August 20th, 2014, 04:42 PM
Oils do not moisturise (add or increase water), they are anhydrous and oil and water do not mix.
If you believe that "moisturizing = humectant" then you are absolutely right. But I always thought that "moisturizing" is broader than just humectant.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears to me that in dermatology and related fields, "moisturizing" agents are the ones that are either humectant (attracting/holding onto water) or occlusive (preventing water evaporation and trans-epidermal water loss) or a combination of both. While oils aren't humectant, they are certainly occlusive, they form a film that helps skin and hair retain moisture, so in that way they are moisturizing.

Firefox7275
August 20th, 2014, 04:55 PM
If you believe that "moisturizing = humectant" then you are absolutely right. But I always thought that "moisturizing" is broader than just humectant.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears to me that in dermatology and related fields, "moisturizing" agents are the ones that are either humectant (attracting/holding onto water) or occlusive (preventing water evaporation and trans-epidermal water loss) or a combination of both. While oils aren't humectant, they are certainly occlusive, they form a film that helps skin and hair retain moisture, so in that way they are moisturizing.

Exactly so. Moisture = water, moisturising = adding or increasing water. In skincare an occlusive can be said to be 'moisturising' at a stretch, because blood and lymph supplies water and the occlusive stops it evaporating as fast as usual. If more water is supplied than leaves then the occlusive is technically moisturising the skin in that it is increasing the water content.

Hair has no such water supply, it has the water it started with or water that is added by a product or water that is attracted from the air. If applied to damp or wet hair an occusive may slow the rate at which water is lost/ hair dries but ultimately the hair IS still drying out. If a penetrating oil is applied to dry hair then it will reduce porosity and ultimately reduce the amount of water the hair is capable of holding. That definitely is not moisturising.

Of course humectants can also dehydrate skin or hair in the wrong dew points/ humidity, so it is not quite as simple as saying they are always moisturising.

TLDR dead hair is not living skin.

spidermom
August 20th, 2014, 05:22 PM
From Wikipedia: Moisturizers or emollients (/ɨˈmɒliənts/) are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable. They increase the skin's hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc., may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.

Respectfully, moisture does not = water. Moisture is anything that relieves dryness, which can be water, yes, but can also be essential fatty acids (lotions, creams ...). Hydration = water; perhaps that is where the confusion comes from.

meteor
August 20th, 2014, 05:30 PM
Exactly so. Moisture = water, moisturising = adding or increasing water. In skincare an occlusive can be said to be 'moisturising' at a stretch, because blood and lymph supplies water and the occlusive stops it evaporating as fast as usual. If more water is supplied than leaves then the occlusive is technically moisturising the skin in that it is increasing the water content.

Hair has no such water supply, it has the water it started with or water that is added by a product or water that is attracted from the air. If applied to damp or wet hair an occusive may slow the rate at which water is lost/ hair dries but ultimately the hair IS still drying out. If a penetrating oil is applied to dry hair then it will reduce porosity and ultimately reduce the amount of water the hair is capable of holding. That definitely is not moisturising.
Thanks a lot, Firefox! :flowers:
Just to clarify: lets say, it's super-dry air in cold winter + heater or arid desert environment... and anti-humectants like oils do a MUCH better job keeping my hair moist and emollient than humectants like glycerine/aloe/honey, that still means that oils aren't really moisturizing?

I guess that's why I am not a huge fan of the word "moisturizing" :)... Incidentally, I thought that anything that reduces porosity and patch-repairs/temporarily restore's hair's structural integrity is what helps hair hold onto moisture better - so hydrolyzed proteins (mild humectant) and ceramides and 18-MEA would be moisturizing, from that perspective...

meteor
August 20th, 2014, 05:33 PM
From Wikipedia: Moisturizers or emollients (/ɨˈmɒliənts/) are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable. They increase the skin's hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc., may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.

Respectfully, moisture does not = water. Moisture is anything that relieves dryness, which can be water, yes, but can also be essential fatty acids (lotions, creams ...). Hydration = water; perhaps that is where the confusion comes from.

Yes, that's what I've also always assumed. :)

I thought: "moisturizing" is not necessarily equal to "hydrating".
"Hydrating = humectant + water"
But "moisturizing/emollient" = "humectant and/or occlusive" (that's what I see on dermatology websites, at least)

But I could be wrong, of course! :flower:

spidermom
August 20th, 2014, 05:39 PM
Yes, that's what I've also always assumed. :)

I thought: "moisturizing" is not necessarily equal to "hydrating".
"Hydrating = humectant + water"
But "moisturizing/emollient" = "humectant and/or occlusive" (that's what I see on dermatology websites, at least)

But I could be wrong, of course! :flower:

You are not wrong. The concept of moisture includes, but is not limited to, water.

Firefox7275
August 21st, 2014, 06:51 AM
From Wikipedia: Moisturizers or emollients (/ɨˈmɒliənts/) are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable. They increase the skin's hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc., may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.

Respectfully, moisture does not = water. Moisture is anything that relieves dryness, which can be water, yes, but can also be essential fatty acids (lotions, creams ...). Hydration = water; perhaps that is where the confusion comes from.

There is no confusion in my mind.

MoisturisER is not the same word as either moisture or moisturising, merely the same root. A moisturisER is usually used to refer to a product not a single ingredient of family of ingredients. An emollient can be an ingredient or an emulsion type product (term more used in pharmacy). Moisture invariably means water just as moist means damp. Hydrating means much the same as moisturising yes, that is the nature of the English language.

I trained in hospital pharmacy including learning some formulation and making up emollient creams. Never once seen essential fatty acids (lipids) or whole oils referred to as moisture.

aenflex
August 21st, 2014, 12:05 PM
I use coconut oil religiously after experimenting with camellia, grape seed, sweet almond and some other oils. Coconut oil is my go to for what I consider to be moisturization. I will choose to refrain from the technical argument above, and just go with my own personal experience. Coconut oil conditions my hair, really helps it go from dry, fly-away, weathered-ends to soft, shiny hair with increased manageability. I use it both sparingly as a leave in and liberally as a treatment.
Also use Argan oil on occasion, when I want more of a 'seal'. Coconut seems to absorb quite quickly. I believe its molecules are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, whereas many other oils sit on top.
Occasionally I need to clarify, be it from the oils or the cones in my conditioner, and when I do I use Neutrogena shampoo. It's rare, tho. Once, maybe twice per month. I certainly recommend oiling.

eta:sp