Help Please-I've Realized Just the Top Layer of Hair is Damaged

[danniro]

Now that I know that it is not in fact my whole head of recently rehabilitated (no cone, no sulfate, no wash every day etc) 2b curls which is damaged, just the very top layer. The top layer has a lot of frizz, is pretty poofy and the curls are either non-existent or poorly formed.
I know that some frizz is normal, but I can tell the difference between the frizz on my top and bottom layers and my bottom layers have a much healthier looking frizz.
Literally, if I scoop up the top layer my “under hair” is smooth, shiny, and hydrated-looking. I have been using samples of Redken Diamond oil and Wella SP Luxe oil has also been recommended but I hesitate because it's a bit expensive and why should it work when no other oil has? Today once my hair was dried I carefully smoothed Moringa Oil from the Body shop on just the very frizzy and poofy parts. It worked for a bit but after that the frizz came back, and my hair was just a bit shinier.
I don’t use silicones or sulfates and am trying to extend my wash days from every other day to every 4ish days. At the moment I've been trying to shampoo only once a week and co-wash when I know my hair is oiily (from trying oil treatments) but then yesterday I discovered PIMPLES on my scalp so I probably should wash my hair....
My hair doesn’t like coconut oil. I have tried argan and jojoba and olive also with no results. I tried sunflower seed oil, and a homemade coconut-shea-almond medley.
I have tried pre-pooing with the above oils. Also have tried overnight treatments, and protein treatments (aphogee and neutral protein filler).
Does anyone else have this problem? Do you know what causes it?
I have a coworker who appears to have 2bish hair, it might be a bit thicker than mine but hers has some frizz but it is very long and shiny and the curls are well formed. She told me she washed her hair every other day, with silicone cconditioners and shampoos with sulfates and doesn't even use leave ins or anything!!!
Part of me wants to try silicones again, but part of me is scared to. I don't know what was holding back my natural curl all this time but could it have been silicones?
Current Hair: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2896/14237441920_bcde68a92c_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nG7Bsy) https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2916/14530727942_494ee4b1a1_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o92Mb7) https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14528342311_fa783411a2_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8Py1x)
1 Year Ago: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/14531726585_4150196b54_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o97U36)

[YamaMaya]

Hmm, well the silicones will hide the damage in your hair while it grows out, but it was the silicones that straightened out your hair. Can I ask what you're using to brush your hair? Also, have you considered a silk pillowcase or sleep cap? It seems what's going on here is mechanical damage. Try looking up the Curly Girl method as well. How is your hair responding to oils and butters? Is it not absorbing them at all? It could be your hair has low porosity, or it could mean you need to clarify. Hair is trial and error until you find a method that works for you, just keep trying :).

[danniro]

I only ever brush my hair with a wooden boar bristle brush when it's oily.
I currently use satin pillowcases. I recently purchased two satiny (probably are artificial material though) headwear thing, a wrap and a bonnet type thing. Have not figured out the best way to wear the wrap/scarf but I was only going to use it for when I put oil in my hair before bed.
So far, oils either make my hair more frizzy (coconut and one other I can't recall) and the other don't appear to help until I use too much then they make my hair stringy, but still very much frizzy.
I have tried a mixture with shea butter but never pure shea butter. Ucuuba butter was recommended to me by someone who analysed my hair, she said it penetrates well. She said my hair is low porosity at the roots, normal porosity in the middle, and some porosity at the ends.
I've done a lot of trial, really only had error :(

[danniro]

I only ever brush my hair with a wooden boar bristle brush when it's oily.
I currently use satin pillowcases. I recently purchased two satiny (probably are artificial material though) headwear thing, a wrap and a bonnet type thing. Have not figured out the best way to wear the wrap/scarf but I was only going to use it for when I put oil in my hair before bed.
So far, oils either make my hair more frizzy (coconut and one other I can't recall) and the other don't appear to help until I use too much then they make my hair stringy, but still very much frizzy.
I have tried a mixture with shea butter but never pure shea butter. Ucuuba butter was recommended to me by someone who analysed my hair, she said it penetrates well. She said my hair is low porosity at the roots, normal porosity in the middle, and some porosity at the ends.
I've done a lot of trial, really only had error :(

I think I named about all the oils I tried in my original post. I've tried them all basically...

[lunalocks]

I am growing out similar damage. For me the biggest culprit was wearing a ponytail while exercising and repeatedly tightening it. I was wearing a soft scrunchie but the damage, over 2 or more years, lets the outer layer of my hair get frazzled. Like you, I would find the under hairs perfect and strong. So no more ponys for me. I wear my hair up. I also am planning on getting a satin or silk sleep cap. I am not a crazy sleeper, but the outer hair certainly rubs against the pillows. So think about what you might be doing to damage the outer hairs and change that. An ounce of prevention...

[YamaMaya]

I only ever brush my hair with a wooden boar bristle brush when it's oily.
I currently use satin pillowcases. I recently purchased two satiny (probably are artificial material though) headwear thing, a wrap and a bonnet type thing. Have not figured out the best way to wear the wrap/scarf but I was only going to use it for when I put oil in my hair before bed.
So far, oils either make my hair more frizzy (coconut and one other I can't recall) and the other don't appear to help until I use too much then they make my hair stringy, but still very much frizzy.
I have tried a mixture with shea butter but never pure shea butter. Ucuuba butter was recommended to me by someone who analysed my hair, she said it penetrates well. She said my hair is low porosity at the roots, normal porosity in the middle, and some porosity at the ends.
I've done a lot of trial, really only had error :(

You could try CO (conditioner only) washing and see if that yeilds better results. The oils are there mainly to hold in moisture, not really add any in. Try doing a stretch test (http://www.hairliciousinc.com/2012/02/test-your-hair-for-damage-hair-strand.html) to see what your hair may be lacking in.

[danniro]

I am growing out similar damage. For me the biggest culprit was wearing a ponytail while exercising and repeatedly tightening it. I was wearing a soft scrunchie but the damage, over 2 or more years, lets the outer layer of my hair get frazzled. Like you, I would find the under hairs perfect and strong. So no more ponys for me. I wear my hair up. I also am planning on getting a satin or silk sleep cap. I am not a crazy sleeper, but the outer hair certainly rubs against the pillows. So think about what you might be doing to damage the outer hairs and change that. An ounce of prevention...

I guess that could be partially it for me too... but it has been a year since I was doing sports and wearing my hair in a pony everyday

[lilin]

I'm having the exact same problem, and I have a very similar hair type to you, it appears. My top layer is quite damaged. Under is perfect. Even if I move my normal part over an inch, that hair's not so bad (which I did).

I've decided to give silk pillowcases and protective night styles a shot. I'm also going to try to move my part every few days so one layer of hair isn't taking all of the damage all the time.

The damage is really quite significant. It's always been like that, but until I decided to really start caring for my hair, I just never noticed.

[pelicano]

I have the exact same problem and always have, unfortunately. It's because the underneath hair isn't exposed to the elements, and from being rubbed on pillows, cushions etc, I'm sure. I have a silk pillow case, which can help a bit, but not a huge amount in my case.

I often load argan oil on just that top layer of hair before a wash, as if I load it on the underneath bits it's far too much.

[two_wheels]

Is it definitely damage and not a different texture? Some people have different textures on the canopy vs underneath, which is difficult to manage and looks a bit like you describe.

[lilin]

Is it definitely damage and not a different texture? Some people have different textures on the canopy vs underneath, which is difficult to manage and looks a bit like you describe.

I'm not sure about the OP, but with mine, I'm pretty sure it is. Lots of short, broken hairs. A lot on my sides, where my glasses used to catch. A lot of them are the length that would break off at the point where I tie a ponytail.

[Marika]

My hair becomes very dry if I try to stretch washes (I wash every other day). And CO washes were disaster (itchy scalp and dry ends)! If I were you, I would probably go back using silicones and see what happens... BTW, Wella SP Luxe Oil has silicones (Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethiconol).

[Johannah]

I think you first need to find out whether this frizz is coming from damage or something else. It could be you just need to clarify because of product build-up. I think this is worth a try.

If that doesn't help, I'd do a wet assessment as well to find out if you're balanced between protein and moisture, since you say you've used some protein in the past and it could be you have an overload. Especially curlies can have problems with this. Link: http://voices.yahoo.com/the-fine-art-protein-moisture-balancing-for-393904.html?cat=69. In my case, I'm having a lot of frizz (especially the upper layer!) because of lack of protein. I notice since I use hydrolyzed keratin, my hair is getting better.

It could be damage as well since the upper layer is more vulnerable (sun damage, maybe more combing or brushing, you sleep on this part). If it's damage, I think you need to do a big S&D session and treat it right.

[ErinLeigh]

My top layer is always most damaged and frizzy from mechanical damage, water from shower hitting it, sun exposure etc.
I used to layer my hair to remove as much of the damage as I could and expose some of my healthy under under hair. The top layer just drove me nuts being so different.

The only thing I can suggest is finding the right products to mask what you can and microtrim it off (if you aren't a cut layers person)
It could be just a different texture but if you had hair analysis then you know.

A good leave in will help. I say give the DiamondOil a chance. I have a similar oil from Pureology and it did seem to work a little different than my straight oils or cones. Just use very little (one drop and rub and warm between palms before smoothing over canopy hair) It is worth a shot.

[leilani]

My friend works for loreal and gave me the diamond oil and it's great.

[Hrtchoco]

Maybe try wear a hat when you are going to be under the sun?

[höpönasu]

Top layer of my hair is also lighter and damaged than under layers. I try to deal with it and not be bothered.:cool:

[CousinItt]

Our hair seems similar. My canopy used to always be rough, dry and brittle, and HATED oils. I used to classify myself as a fine/medium as well, because the canopy was so damaged, the hairs were fatter than the rest, which I thought just a different texture. Nope, it's all fine when it's undamaged.

I discovered my biggest problem was mechanical damage, especially when I used a BBB. After I started using a succession of finger combing, wide-tooth wooden comb, then narrower toothed horn comb/bamboo bristle brush, I have way fewer issues. My hair is silkier than ever.

As for the oil issue-I'm not entirely certain why they work now and didn't before. I suspect it may be because I clarified my hair and stopped using conventional products, so there's nothing blocking the oil absorption anymore, but it's just a theory.

[spidermom]

It's a very common problem. The top layer of hair gets weathered. What I do about mine is wear it in a braided style most of the time because that's the most protective. I use coconut oil on the length the night before washing. And if I know I'm going to be outside for a long time, I wear a hat or set up the patio umbrella to protect from direct sunlight (such as when I'm weeding the garden).

[danniro]

Is it definitely damage and not a different texture? Some people have different textures on the canopy vs underneath, which is difficult to manage and looks a bit like you describe.

When I had a hair analysis done by an Etsy user I specifically labeled a clip of my hair as "problem hair" and she said that hair was more coarse. But could it be coarse from damage?

[danniro]

my hair becomes very dry if i try to stretch washes (i wash every other day). And co washes were disaster (itchy scalp and dry ends)! If i were you, i would probably go back using silicones and see what happens... Btw, wella sp luxe oil has silicones (cyclopentasiloxane & dimethiconol).

nooooooooooo

[danniro]

I used Diamond Oil overnight and then I applied it to my hair before plopping and added more when my hair was dry to the particularly frizzy and poofy spots. My hair was still pretty frizzy though. But it has also been a bit humid here and at my job I have to go into a room which has showers+saunas+a hot tub so it can be pretty humid in there. But still you'd think it'd help some..
On a side note I can't believe what plopping did to my hair! I never really thought it would work that's why I've never tried it but I got beautifully formed spirally curls among my looser curls so I wonder if my hair is still changing...
I'm afraid to clarify my hair, I just imagine it sucking out all the moisture I've worked so hard to put into my hair and it might even dry out my scalp and I've been battling dandruff for a while and it's been a little better lately since I saw a derm.

Even though I was told my problem area was coarser I still feel like it's damage. For example when I was comparing today I noticed the two curls framing my face were much less smooth looking, the strands didn't cling to each other as much I guess.

[danniro]

Also what is S&D? Shampoo and Deep condition?

[danniro]

It just sucks because I feel like I've tried protein and moisture and neither really work.

[Johannah]

Also what is S&D? Shampoo and Deep condition?

S&D means search & destroy. You search through your hair for split ends and white dots and cut them off. In this way you'll gain length without the damage.

[pelicano]

I can't stretch washes really, due to my scalp. But on the odd occasion that I have, my hair gets more dry as I lose moisture. I do a lot of water washing plus conditioner on the ends, with occasional shampoos.

[danniro]

S&D means search & destroy. You search through your hair for split ends and white dots and cut them off. In this way you'll gain length without the damage.

I don't get many split ends. Whenever I look for them they're pretty hard to find and I only find a couple, if any.

[renia22]

My hair becomes very dry if I try to stretch washes (I wash every other day). And CO washes were disaster (itchy scalp and dry ends)! If I were you, I would probably go back using silicones and see what happens... BTW, Wella SP Luxe Oil has silicones (Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethiconol).

I second what Marika suggested. Also I would skip the shea butter, that can build up something awful on certain hair types, especially if it's not being washed out properly. My hair is finer than yours (2a), but I avoid shea like the plague.

[Jonquil]

My hair is almost exactly the same as yours, judging by the pictures. I even have the same type of damage you describe... frizzy, dry hair on top and healthy shiny wavy hair below that. I think it's from rubbing up against everything.
Will be following this thread to see what everyone recommends :)

[LadyCelestina]

I think you are...not overreacting but turning a small thing into something huge. Have you ever seen some of these fun pics along the lines of curly girl problems? Well many of us have a frizzy canopy but perfect underlayer. And from your pics I don't see anything that would make me think "oh her hair is so broken".I see a nice head of shiny waves.

[danniro]

I think you are...not overreacting but turning a small thing into something huge. Have you ever seen some of these fun pics along the lines of curly girl problems? Well many of us have a frizzy canopy but perfect underlayer. And from your pics I don't see anything that would make me think "oh her hair is so broken".I see a nice head of shiny waves.

Haha thanks. The middle picture really masked how much frizz I had that day though...
I'm a little nervous about trying silicone products. I feel it could undo all the work I've put into my hair since going cone and sulfate free in December 13.
Perhaps I'll try using a hydrating mask weekly or so... I think I might try clarifying too. I've never tried it before.

[LadyCelestina]

Haha thanks. The middle picture really masked how much frizz I had that day though...
I'm a little nervous about trying silicone products. I feel it could undo all the work I've put into my hair since going cone and sulfate free in December 13.
Perhaps I'll try using a hydrating mask weekly or so... I think I might try clarifying too. I've never tried it before.
Well frizz happens.There are some people with effortless perfect curls,but most only have those nice frizzless ringlets for a while until they sleep on it,move their head too much,or go on with their life.You can try using a lot of gel if the frizz really bothers you.Or sitting completely still and not touching your hair while drying.

Why is it necessary for you to avoid silicones? I'm sorry I'm a huge cone advocate so I just had to :lol: You can try something like amodimethicone,which supposedly doesn't build up.Also...Have you tried using sulfate free shampoos instead of co-washing if you get scalp pimples? They are gentler and you can always dilute.

[curlylocks85]

My hair does the same thing. When I separate the top from the rest, my hair is smoother and shinier underneath. For the longest time I thought that my top layer was damaged and that I was doing something wong. After I examined my hair, I realized that my top layer of hair was very healthy and had no split ends or damage whatsoever. It was then that I realized the texture of my hair on the top was a little bit different than the texture underneath and that there was nothing wrong with my hair. I also noticed that my mother's hair does the same thing. I asked her about it and she told me it is a genetic thing and everyone in our family has the same thing going on with their hair. Now I accept it as it is and don't look at it as a bad thing. I like to think that my top layer is a protective layer of hair for the rest. I hope this helps. :)

[Firefox7275]

Sun damage? Mechanical damage from the BBB and ponytailing? Do you fiddle with your hair a lot or focus your brushing on the visible canopy? Many curly specialists do not recommend brushing wavy or curly hair, just finger or wide tooth combing when hair is slathered in conditioner.

Work with your hair properties (coarseness, porosity, elasticity) when choosing products and ingredients. Don't underestimate the effects of different techniques, tools and amounts when comparing with others - not only products - your colleague's wash method, towel, water or weather exposure may be very different to yours.

[Cania]

I won't dare guess at the cause, but have you tried Kimberlily's Defrizz Spray (http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/showthread.php?t=277)?

[spidermom]

Clarifying will not dry out your hair. I understand being concerned. I felt the same way before I tried it. All kinds of product residues build up. You can have the most natural hair care routine in the world and still get buildup. It is often the buildup that dries out, not your hair itself.

Years ago I thought that my hair was so dried out that it was beyond help. I'd already clarified and done a deep moisture treatment, but it only helped a little bit. One day I was handling my big python with my hair down, and he released musk all over me. I had to shampoo my hair from scalp to tips four times in a row to get the stink of that musk out of my hair. To my amazement, my hair was silky and shiny after that, not dry at all, and I didn't even do a deep conditioning treatment, just used my regular rinse-out conditioner. Unless snake musk is really good for hair, I think I can conclude that I had a lot more buildup that I had realized.