HELP! My hair is REALLY dry and I can't figure out the culprit.

[FallingDarkness]

So. Here's what has been going on.
Stretching my washes has been working for me. My hair was soooo soft because of it. I'd wash with a sulfate free shampoo, and finish with Aussie's 3mm deep conditioner. Grapeseed oil on my ends, then double English braids. My hair is up 100% of the time now. I haven't spent that much time in the sun.
I started the CWC method last Friday, starting with Organix Coconut Milk conditioner, then my normal routine. And it was sooo soft. But then on day 4, wash day, my hair was really dry for some reason. I don't understand. It was greasy and dry, which seems oxymoronic. So I did just a CO with Aussie's 3mm and my hair is still really, really dry.
I had used my claw clip to hold my LWBs for the last two weeks-ish daily, if that could have caused the dryness? I really don't know what I did wrong, or what I need to do to fix this. Should I change my routine? If so, any suggestions as to what I should change it to?
I'm planning on doing a hot oil treatment Friday night, but I'm afraid that it's not going to fix my problem.
Advice is MUCH appreciated.

[spidermom]

It's probably buildup. Do a clarifying wash. I use a clarifying shampoo for this about every other month or two.

[FallingDarkness]

Ooh okay! Where can I purchase said clarifying shampoo? What brand should I buy? What do you use? And can I do my oil treatment prior to it?

[jeanniet]

3mm has cones, so my guess would be buildup as well. You can use a cone-free sulfate shampoo. I use Neutrogena's Anti-Residue whenever I do an infrequent clarifying wash and it works great, but you don't have to use something labeled as clarifying.

[FallingDarkness]

Should I wash the length, or just the scalp, per usual?
I will definitely make a trip to the store tonight and pick some of that up! :)

[Nadine <3]

When clarifying, wash the the length to get the build up off.

[Aderyn]

Suave also has a "daily clarifying shampoo" and V05 has one as well, if I remember correctly. Stores around here don't sell Neutrogena Anti-Residue, so there are a few more options for you if you can't find it. As noted above, the label of clarifying isn't necessary, just try to avoid a coney shampoo

Wouldn't be surprised if it was the cones causing the buildup. I've also heard mixed reviews about Organix coconut milk conditioner and how that can be a bit drying. Not too sure about using grapeseed oil on hair, but that might be building up a bit, too.

Doing an oil treatment prior to clarifying can't hurt, though I wonder how effective that would be.

[florenonite]

If you have hard water, you may also want to consider chelating, to get rid of any potential mineral build-up. A lot of clarifying shampoos will also have chelating ingredients (and vice versa); just pick up one that's got some sulfates as well as one or more of the following: citric acid, disodium EDTA, and/or tetrasodium EDTA. I like Herbal Essences Fresh Balance.

[FallingDarkness]

Hmm. Okay. So should I try to switch to cone-free conditioners? Or just clarify more often?
I'm almost out of grapeseed oil so I'll probably just use coconut oil on the ends after I shower.
How do you tell if your water is 'hard' or not?

[florenonite]

Hmm. Okay. So should I try to switch to cone-free conditioners? Or just clarify more often?

It's up to you, really. Some people choose to go cone-free to avoid the hassle; others find their hair doesn't behave without cones. You can try cone-free and see how it works :shrug:


How do you tell if your water is 'hard' or not?

Well, I know my water's hard(ish) because I need more dish soap, more shampoo, more laundry detergent, etc. than I did in another town ;) If you get a soap scum build-up around your tub, that's usually a sign you've got hard water.

[FallingDarkness]

Any cone-free conditioners that you'd recommend?

[lapushka]

It's probably buildup. Do a clarifying wash. I use a clarifying shampoo for this about every other month or two.

That was basically my first thought as well. Sulfate free - all the time, and then a very coney product such as Aussie...

[queenovnight]

Clarifying can dry out your hair, so I would recommend only doing it once a month or when your hair feels 'built up.' Also, have your tried using VO5? It's a lightweight conditioner, and for me.. it's just perfection in a bottle. They also have a good clarifying shampoo.

- Welp! My post is a little late Lol. But yeah v05 is a great cone-free conditioner.

And hard water test:
http://www.wikihow.com/Determine-if-You-Have-Hard-Water


(http://www.wikihow.com/Determine-if-You-Have-Hard-Water)

[FallingDarkness]

I have not tried using VO5!! Maybe I'll purchase that too. I'm still working on finding a routine that REALLY works for me, so experimenting is optimal.

[florenonite]

Any cone-free conditioners that you'd recommend?

If you're in the UK, I'm pretty sure Boots' own-brand conditioners are cone-free (they definitely were 5 years ago). Don't know about anywhere else, I'm afraid, though a lot of US members seem to like VO5.

ETA: I see you're using a sulfate-free shampoo. Because these shampoos tend not to be good at getting cones out, any conditioner meant to be paired with a sulfate shampoo shouldn't have cones, either.

[FallingDarkness]

So in short I should either start using a cone-free conditioner, or drop the sulfate-free shampoo?

[florenonite]

So in short I should either start using a cone-free conditioner, or drop the sulfate-free shampoo?

Pretty much, yeah. I *think* you can continue using the sulfate-free shampoo with cones, but you will have to clarify more often than you would with a sulfate shampoo. That may or may not be acceptable to you.

[FallingDarkness]

If I have to clarify more often, I'll probably dry out my hair.
I'm practically out of my sulfate-free shampoo, so I'll make that switch pretty soon. Aussie's works for me for the most part, so I think I'm going to keep it around. Plus it's really inexpensive :P
I'll give VO5 a go as well, and see if it works better than Aussie. If so, I'll ditch Aussie as well!
You guys are so helpful; thanks so much,

[Kherome]

If I have to clarify more often, I'll probably dry out my hair.
I'm practically out of my sulfate-free shampoo, so I'll make that switch pretty soon. Aussie's works for me for the most part, so I think I'm going to keep it around. Plus it's really inexpensive :P I'll give VO5 a go as well, and see if it works better than Aussie. If so, I'll ditch Aussie as well!
You guys are so helpful; thanks so much,
I am not anti-cone, but 3mm is a really, really heavily coned conditioner. I would not use that as a frequent product as it'll likely end up sealing moisture OUT of your hair as well as causing a lot of build up. I agree you'll need to chelate first. Then I would WCC with the first C being non-coney at least.

ETA: 3mm and other heavy coney conditioners often "work" because they are good at hiding dryness and damage. So be careful that you aren't covering up dryness with cones and just don't realize it.

[FallingDarkness]

Oh! Well I had no idea that 3mm could have been potentially just locking moisture out of my hair and hiding its dryness. This problem will be solved immediately. Obviously I still have lots to learn about hair care... LOL

Do I need to buy a different shampoo for chelating?

[Jonquil]

I'm so glad you started this thread. I have the same issue with dryness and now I know what the likely culprits are!

Apple cider vinegar rinses are really good for chelating and I find that they make my hair really soft and shiny, so that could be something to try. Plus it's really inexpensive to do.

[FallingDarkness]

I actually do have apple cider vinegar in my pantry! Yay thank you parents who go out and buy apple cider vinegar that we never use!
I'm glad I started this thread too. I'm learning a lot. A LOT. *scowls at the 'likely culprits'* :P

Okay, so 3 major questions regarding apple cider vinegar rinses. One, do I have to ration the vinegar with water? Two, do I rinse after I wash/condition my hair? And three, do I rinse out the vinegar or do I leave it in?

ALSO Do I need to clarify the wash after I chelate? Next wash day is Saturday, wash day after that would be Wednesday.

[meteor]

Okay, so 3 major questions regarding apple cider vinegar rinses. One, do I have to ration the vinegar with water? Two, do I rinse after I wash/condition my hair? And three, do I rinse out the vinegar or do I leave it in?

ALSO Do I need to clarify the wash after I chelate? Next wash day is Saturday, wash day after that would be Wednesday.

Always dilute vinegar pretty heavily (a common dilution is 1 tbsp of vinegar per 1 cup of water, but it varies depending on your water and hair), as it's way too acidic on its own. Also, ACV is very safe to use for dark-haired people, but not for blondes/blonettes who want to avoid red tint. So blondes should use diluted white vinegar or diluted lemon juice instead, as ACV tends to give that temporary red tint. You can rinse out, but you don't have to. Test what works better for you.
I wouldn't go as far as call acidic rinses "chelating", they just help counteract mineral build-up a bit. But chelating shampoos are what will remove old build-up effectively. They are often labelled "swimmers' shampoos", because swimmers are exposed to extremely drying chlorinated pool water.
I wouldn't clarify after chelating, I'd rather do that in one step (shampoos can be clarifying + chelating in one) to avoid drying out hair, as I dislike shampooing my length too much.

[FallingDarkness]

EW! I don't want a red tint! BARF. Not saying that red hair/red tints isn't pretty, but I just don't want my hair to be red. I don't have any white vinegar, but we have plenty of lemon juice. Still the same dilute ration for lemon juice, I suppose?
So I should chelate on Saturday, and NOT clarify anytime soon? Or should I clarify, condition, then use a lemon juice rinse?

[meteor]

Yes, same dilutions for vinegar and lemon rinse. You don't have to be precise. Many of us eyeball it.

If your clarifying shampoo is separate from chelating shampoo, I'd start with clarifying, as it's less drastic solution IMHO (just a simple SLS wash). Maybe that will be all you need. If your hair is not getting much better after clarifying, then I'd go for a chelating shampoo.
By the way, I like to do a heavy pre-poo oiling before clarifying, and follow up with a heavy moisturizing conditioner (humectants + oils), as I always get silky hair after, but that's just my personal preference, and lots of people only clarify and condition with great results.

Acidic rinses go either after shampoo or after conditioner. Either rinsed out or not. I like it both ways, but you'll need to experiment.
Best of luck! :D

[ErinLeigh]

I think maybe some buildup. The reason I think it is the cone heavy conditioner plus the grapeseed oil. I notice my hair can dry out over time if I overdo the grapeseed. The combination could slowly be preventing some moisture from getting in. Since hair gets washed every 4th day, if there is buildup then it might not have much moisture left in by wash day. I know it sounds strange but my hair actually gets drier over time when I stretch washes unless my moisture balance is already good. If my hair is on the dry side (most times for me), not getting it wet with a wash actually makes it worse for me. I don't advise to wash more or anything, just pointing out how this could happen with the combination of all things.

Wouldn't hurt to clarify/chelate, follow with a good cone free deep conditioner, then seal damp hair with something like jojoba oil to help hold in some moisture. After that hair may feel fine back on original routine until its time to clarify again. All hair is different but that is what helps me bounce back from really dry spells.

Hope your you find a solution. Dry hair is no fun at all.

[Kherome]

Oh! Well I had no idea that 3mm could have been potentially just locking moisture out of my hair and hiding its dryness. This problem will be solved immediately. Obviously I still have lots to learn about hair care... LOL

Do I need to buy a different shampoo for chelating?

Clarifying doesn't usually do much for heavy build up IME. I know plenty of people who SLS wash and use cones who still struggle with build up, despite the SLS wash. Because I sometimes use cones and because we have some hard water, I just bought a giant bottle of L'anza chelating shampoo and once a month or so I use it. (L'anza is a very gentle but effective chelator unlike harsh stuff like Joico.) Definitely do not clarify if you chelate because chelating is clarifying, just better.

3mm and other very heavily coned conditioners can quite easily seal moisture out of the hair, which is unfortunate. Cones are not bad. They just need to be used the right way. The general public usually doesn't get the info on what the "right way" is though. You don't have to get rid of the 3mm if you don't want to. Just use it with care.

ETA: Just be aware you may (or may not) find that after you chelate that you don't love your hair. Sometimes when you unveil what your hair really looks like under all the build up you'll find it has been damaged by being dry for so long. Don't lose heart and go back to burying it under cones if you do find that. Keep up with making sure the moisture gets in there first, and it'll get better.

[lapushka]

3mm and other very heavily coned conditioners can quite easily seal moisture out of the hair, which is unfortunate. Cones are not bad. They just need to be used the right way. The general public usually doesn't get the info on what the "right way" is though. You don't have to get rid of the 3mm if you don't want to. Just use it with care.

Exactly. Cones aren't bad, you just have to know how to use them!

OP, you've been given lots of options. Just proceed with care from now on. Make one change in your routine, stick to it a while, and see what that does. Don't go nuts trying everything all-at-once, because that can ruin things and you won't know what messed up your routine.

[FallingDarkness]

Yeah, I've gotten an overdose of information. I think I'm going to clarify tomorrow, and see where that leaves me. If after clarifying my hair is left unchanged, I'll wait two washes and then chelate. I'll use less of 3mm, but keep my sulfate-free shampoo.
Hopefully this fixes my hair!
Thank you all for your expertise and advice.

[Kherome]

Just remember if you're keeping the 3mm, you're going to have to wash with SLS shampoo probably once every two weeks at a minimum.

[florenonite]

How do you feel about the sulfate-free shampoo? Is your scalp happier? If your scalp is improved by the sulfate-free shampoo, AND you're only using the 3MM on the length, then you don't need to clarify at the scalp, but just the hair where you've been using cones.