Silicones vs natural oil

[ErinLeigh]

I need advice. I am sure there are a ton of threads on this topic but the advance search never works for me.

I need direction. I do not know what to do for long care hair health.
I have fine hair, slight wave, some of it straight, a few curls at temple. My hair is colored and has bleach highlights.
Hair is very easily damaged. I would say lacks proper moisture, and snaps immediately when strand is pulled. I blow dry hair 3/4 times a week.

I use natural oils but I also use silicones.

I have been reading about mineral oil, cones and oils and all it has done is left me confused, I want to grow healthy hair. As healthy as it can be while still being colored and blown out.

Do I need the cones for heat protection?
If so how often should I clarify?
Are cheap SLS shampoos enough to clarify so do I want to use a proper clarifying shampoo?
Are SLS free shampoos enough even?

Does anyone have advice to offer on what I should use to get hair in best shape. Can you tell me what you use and why?

I would like to start incorporating some more co washes into my routine so I am wondering if cones are a good idea anymore. At the same time they do help make my hair look better.
I do not want to get crazy and add oil and cones and get buildup too often.

I need ideas, information and comments. What is you full routine and most importantly WHY? If you stopped cones, Can you tell me what old routine was and what you switched it to?

Also, are certain oils enough to protect with blow drying? I read Grapeseed protects up to 400 degrees but I have not read and reviews or experiences. Does oil get to hot and fry hair from blow drying?

PLease answer any you know answer to
How does one use oil as antifrizz and heat protectant. Which oils are best?
Do oils need clarified out also?
Do silicones really dry out hair or build up? How often must one remove theses?
Do oils seal as well as cones?
Is mineral oil bad for occasional use? I read it is really good for heat styling but once it is on you must clarify to remove

arrgh so much info and no experience stories. Google only takes me to ethic hair care via curly nikki and i do not know if I should be reading those types of regimes if they wont help my hair type.

I am really really confused on how to take care of my hair. It is in fine shape but I want better since I do heat style and do use chemicals.

Sorry if I am rambling. I have't slept in 2 days.

[Hairstorm]

Hi you have asked a lot of questions! I can't answer all of them, but a couple jumped out at me:

Don't ever use SLS. SLeS is fine and gentle unless your scalp is allergic to sulfates, as mine is.

Oil does not protect from heat. Think about it--if you put oil on your skin, would you be able to remove a pan from the oven without mitts? Of course not! Keep the dryer moving and at least six inches away from your hair to minimize damage.

I wish you the best and hope someone who can answer more of your questions comes along soon. I struggles with cones vs oil too and I found my damaged ends did better with cones and virgin hair does well with either.

[sarahthegemini]

Hi there,
After reading your post, I would suggest clarifying (any sulfate shampoo without silicones works) and then do some serious moisture treatments. I think that if the hair strands are snapping, then they need moisture (and if the strand just stretches a lot and doesn't 'bounce' back, it needs protein) Someone correct me if I'm wrong though. I would focus on doing smt-type treatments and then decide whether or not to stick with cones. Personally my hair is better without them, but as your hair is quite damaged, you may need them to give your hair the slip it needs to prevent tangling. But try to inject a lot of moisture before going back to them.

If you decide to try co-washes, you can use cones still, and if you're not co-washing exclusively then I don't think build up will be a problem.

Tbh though, if your hair is in bad condition, then heat styling will only exacerbate the problem.

[tbonita]

I was just wondering about 'cones. Why are they considered 'bad' by some? I just got a big old bottle of tresemme that does have dimethicone for cowashes and henna removal and just to have a large bottle of protein-free moisture around.

[arr]

I can tell you the routine ive developed that has given me the best hair of my life. I wash my hair 2 to 3 times a week. Before i wash i oil my hair with equal parts coconut and olive oil, let it sit at least an hour. I wash with neutrogena clean volume shampoo mixed with a pea size amount of coconut oil. I rinse, then soak my hair in suave daily clarifying conditioner while i finish my shower. Then i rinse and add about a nickel size amount of the same conditioner as a leave in. Then i smooth 3 drops mineral oil on my hair. Then i either blow dry warm, not hot, or air dry. If need be until the next wash i'll use batiste dry shampoo or if my ends feel dry ill spray them with watered down conditioner, same suave one, and rub a tiny amount of coconut oil over that. With this routine my hair is shiny and frizz free and i dont even want to heat style anymore because i love it the way it is, aside from the blowdryer. This is big coming from someone who just had to blowdry on hot and either flatiron or curl every time i washed my hair which was every other day. Thanks to the lhc and everyone here for helping me make these positive changes. I hope this might give you some ideas.

[arr]

I forgot to add that ive gotten off cones because i felt they made my hair dry and crunchy and way too slippery, whereas oils i feel make the hair more silky rather than slippery. But thats just me.

[lapushka]

You can use serums (coney) or oils. One isn't better than the other. A good moisture sealant is a few drops of mineral oil on the ends in lieu of a serum. Serums aren't bad at all, but I wouldn't use them for heat protection. I'd use those sprays especially designed for the purpose!

You should clarify whenever you need to, whenever you feel your hair needs it (you'll notice soon enough). A cheap SL(E)S shampoo is more than enough for the purpose. You don't need some fancy schmancy shampoo.

[Long_hair_bear]

First off, I wouldn't blow dry if your hair already breaks easily. As far as cones vs. oils, you have to do whats right for YOU! My hair is damaged and dry from my bleaching/dying years, so I need cones for their slip. I use coconut oil as a prewash. You can use oils and cones, but use caution. The amount of clarifying you need to do depends on how much product you use on your hair.

[Khiwanean]

I need ideas, information and comments. What is you full routine and most importantly WHY? If you stopped cones, Can you tell me what old routine was and what you switched it to and again..WHY.
My routine is probably of limited use to you, as I'm far wavier than you, but here goes. I CO, currently with Suave Naturals Eternal Sunshine. I use Tresemme Naturals Noirising Moisture as a second conditioner if my hair is feeling particularly uncooperative when I shower. I sometimes use coconut oil on my ends pre-wash. I don't clarify with any regularity, just as my hair starts to feel extra tangly and out of whack. I don't regularly SMT, but I've had good results from them in the past. I sometimes use Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition leave-in when my hair is damp or dry, if my hair is being poofy or I want more slip. I guess I'm really inconsistent with everything but the core wash.

I've been cone-free in my normal routine for years now. My hair liked cones just fine, but my scalp seemed to dislike them something fierce. I also tend to get better waves with cone-free products. I don't really worry about it if I happen to use a product with 'cones in it while I'm not a home.


--content snipped--
Are oils enough to protect with heat styling? I read Grapeseed protects up to 400 degrees but I have not read and reviews or experiences. Does oil get to hot and fry hair?
How does one use oils as antifrizz and heat protectant. Which oils are best?
Does one prepoo before a co wash? Do oils need clarified out also?
Do silicones really dry out hair or build up? How often must one remove theses?
Do oils seal as well as cones? Is mineral oil bad for occasional use? I read it is really good for heat styling but once it is on you must clarify before conditioning again. arrgh so much info and no experience stories. Google only takes me to ethic hair care via curly nikki and i do not know if I should be reading those types of regimes if they wont help my hair type.

I am really really confused on how to take care of my hair. Sorry if I am rambling. I have't slept in 2 days.

Silicone is your best bet to protect your hair from heat. If you don't use anything too hot, oil could work like a hot oil treatment. I doubt oil with a hair dryer would fry your hair unless you have it crazy hot. You definitely wouldn't want to use oil with a flat iron. I'd say, if the heat is enough you wouldn't want it directly on your hand, stick with 'cones.

Of oils I've tried, castor oil works the best for anti-frizz, but is also sticky and really easy to overdo, causing your hair to get stringy. I usually cut the castor oil with coconut oil when I use it and wear my hair pulled back. I don't use that often, as coconut tends to start to smell rancid when used near my scalp. Other oils might hold up better smell-wise. I don't use heat, so I can't comment on the best oils for heat protection.

You can oil before COing. I'm guess that's what you mean by prepoo. It isn't strictly neccesary to oil before CO. YMMV with clarifying. I find conditioner works better than shampoo to remove oil without stripping my hair. I also don't clarify much.

Silicones create a moisture barrier. This will lock moisture both in and out. If your hair is already dry, silicones may dry it out worse because moisture can't penetrate. If your hair is well moisturized, 'cones can help keep it that way. If you want to continue using 'cones, I'd recommend clarifying and then doing a moisture treatment before using 'cones again.

Oils penetrate the hair, so they will require more frequent reapplication than 'cones, which just sit on the hair's surface. I've used mineral oil occasionally with no apparent ill effects, but it's never worked spectacularly for me either. Fun fact: I'm pretty sure it's mineral oil that left streaks on my sheets that glow under blacklight. I don't worry about clarifying unless my hair feels like it needs it.


I hope that answered most of your questions.

[ErinLeigh]

Thanks for the replies. I know it was lot of questions but I figured people can pick and choose the part the want to advise on so I will get a good degree of ideas.

My hair is hard to describe. It damages easily but it not currently damaged. It only breaks if i intentionally strand test it, it is not breaking off in normal day to day mechanics. It looks fine by sight and touch..But it has to be dry or it wouldn't snap so fast.

Since moisture is my issue and I want to be able to keep moisture in hair. That leads me to sealants.
I guess my biggest confusions are sealing moisture/and how to remove the sealants. It is the one thing I cannot figure out if I am doing right.
Mineral oil: great but no new moisture can come into hair. So it is enough to seal in what dampness i had? And will co wash remove it? Some say it requires SLS
Cones: do they really dry hair out overtime
oils: great for when staying home but have not mastered not looking greasy if going in public. Also if hair is not clean I assume they sit on any cones that may be in them.

I think I am going to have to only use natural oils on the times i am cone free. And then when I use cones/mineral oil make sure to add a weekly or bi weekly shampoo and that is enough to remove any cone buildup.

I am loving reading the hair routines by the way. I think its good to see all the different ways and options that are out there.

[ErinLeigh]

My routine is probably of limited use to you, as I'm far wavier than you, but here goes. I CO, currently with Suave Naturals Eternal Sunshine. I use Tresemme Naturals Noirising Moisture as a second conditioner if my hair is feeling particularly uncooperative when I shower. I sometimes use coconut oil on my ends pre-wash. I don't clarify with any regularity, just as my hair starts to feel extra tangly and out of whack. I don't regularly SMT, but I've had good results from them in the past. I sometimes use Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition leave-in when my hair is damp or dry, if my hair is being poofy or I want more slip. I guess I'm really inconsistent with everything but the core wash.

I've been cone-free in my normal routine for years now. My hair liked cones just fine, but my scalp seemed to dislike them something fierce. I also tend to get better waves with cone-free products. I don't really worry about it if I happen to use a product with 'cones in it while I'm not a home.



Silicone is your best bet to protect your hair from heat. If you don't use anything too hot, oil could work like a hot oil treatment. I doubt oil with a hair dryer would fry your hair unless you have it crazy hot. You definitely wouldn't want to use oil with a flat iron. I'd say, if the heat is enough you wouldn't want it directly on your hand, stick with 'cones.

Of oils I've tried, castor oil works the best for anti-frizz, but is also sticky and really easy to overdo, causing your hair to get stringy. I usually cut the castor oil with coconut oil when I use it and wear my hair pulled back. I don't use that often, as coconut tends to start to smell rancid when used near my scalp. Other oils might hold up better smell-wise. I don't use heat, so I can't comment on the best oils for heat protection.

You can oil before COing. I'm guess that's what you mean by prepoo. It isn't strictly neccesary to oil before CO. YMMV with clarifying. I find conditioner works better than shampoo to remove oil without stripping my hair. I also don't clarify much.

Silicones create a moisture barrier. This will lock moisture both in and out. If your hair is already dry, silicones may dry it out worse because moisture can't penetrate. If your hair is well moisturized, 'cones can help keep it that way. If you want to continue using 'cones, I'd recommend clarifying and then doing a moisture treatment before using 'cones again.

Oils penetrate the hair, so they will require more frequent reapplication than 'cones, which just sit on the hair's surface. I've used mineral oil occasionally with no apparent ill effects, but it's never worked spectacularly for me either. Fun fact: I'm pretty sure it's mineral oil that left streaks on my sheets that glow under blacklight. I don't worry about clarifying unless my hair feels like it needs it.


I hope that answered most of your questions.

you did thank you! it was good reply

[ErinLeigh]

I can tell you the routine ive developed that has given me the best hair of my life. I wash my hair 2 to 3 times a week. Before i wash i oil my hair with equal parts coconut and olive oil, let it sit at least an hour. I wash with neutrogena clean volume shampoo mixed with a pea size amount of coconut oil. I rinse, then soak my hair in suave daily clarifying conditioner while i finish my shower. Then i rinse and add about a nickel size amount of the same conditioner as a leave in. Then i smooth 3 drops mineral oil on my hair. Then i either blow dry warm, not hot, or air dry. If need be until the next wash i'll use batiste dry shampoo or if my ends feel dry ill spray them with watered down conditioner, same suave one, and rub a tiny amount of coconut oil over that. With this routine my hair is shiny and frizz free and i dont even want to heat style anymore because i love it the way it is, aside from the blowdryer. This is big coming from someone who just had to blowdry on hot and either flatiron or curl every time i washed my hair which was every other day. Thanks to the lhc and everyone here for helping me make these positive changes. I hope this might give you some ideas.

i feel the same! as my hair has gotten in better condition I ditched the curling and flat irons as well. I'm doing low heat blow dry now and love it. I'd love to not blow dry but since I have layers they would dry funny so not an option right now and I'm ok with that :)
Thank you for sharing your hair routine with me.

[ErinLeigh]

I was just wondering about 'cones. Why are they considered 'bad' by some? I just got a big old bottle of tresemme that does have dimethicone for cowashes and henna removal and just to have a large bottle of protein-free moisture around.

Cones are a hot topic right! Silicone coats the strand acting as a sealant. It will lock in whatever is in your strand. If it is super moisturized it should hold that in ok..but if its dry it is an issue it will remain dry and block any new moisture from coming in until the cone is removed. If your strand tend to be dry, and you keep adding cones, over time the tresses will become drier and drier as no moisture is getting in. Same for if they are not removed enough to let the conditioner in when you wash. (That's why I was so worried about what it took to remove them)

I think cones could be good for some with low porosity hair types as they would help prevent hydral fatigue from the opening and closing of the cuticle as it takes in and expesl water. This process is very damaging to hair that is already weak. Firefox taught me about this my week here and I hope I am saying it correctly. I had to google hydral fatigue as I never thought about it prior.
I reach for cones specifically on days my hair feels weaker or if the temperature is extreme just on case.

its all really confusing. All these different product options. The more I learn about hair care the better my hair is getting so I keep seeking answers.

[florenonite]

Another thing to bear in mind is that not all cones are created equal. Some are water-soluble, others can be removed with gentle surfactants, and many require clarifying to remove.

If you're blow-drying on low- to medium-heat (where you can comfortably put your hand in the air from the dryer), you don't need a heat protectant, but you do need to protect from tangling. Cones, oils, or acid rinses can all help here as they provide slip, but so too does using a lower air speed.

[lapushka]

Cones are a hot topic right! Silicone coats the strand acting as a sealant. It will lock in whatever is in your strand. If it is super moisturized it should hold that in ok..but if its dry it is an issue it will remain dry and block any new moisture from coming in until the cone is removed. If your strand tend to be dry, and you keep adding cones, over time the tresses will become drier and drier as no moisture is getting in. Same for if they are not removed enough to let the conditioner in when you wash. (That's why I was so worried about what it took to remove them)

Just washing with a sl(e)s shampoo will remove the cones - easy, and I'm betting even *gentler* surfactants are great at removing cones.

[tbonita]

ErinLeigh, that's good to know. I've been on a journey of hair self-exploration as well and my (albeit very short) hair has never been thicker, shinier, shedding less... I got a comment on how 'nice and thick' my hair was from a complete stranger! Uh hello I thought I was a F/M i/ii!! I guess my 'coney' condish would be okay sometimes. I usually use a 'poo bar but every few washes I do use a SLS shampoo since I style my pixie with heavy waxes and pomaded that cause build up.

[spidermom]

1) It would be best to stop heat styling if you want more length, but if you're going to heat style anyway, use a protective spray that says it protects hair from heat styling on the label. These products contain moisturizing ingredients that are activated by heat as well as silicones. Any ol' silicone product won't do as good a job.
2) You can use both oil and silicone products. When my scalp hair gets oily and it's time to wash it, I apply coconut oil to the length the night before and make a top-of-head braid. The next morning I wash my scalp with diluted shampoo, then massage conditioner through my length, clip it up, and do everything else I was planning to do in the shower or bath. Then I rinse out the conditioner. I find that conditioner is better for removing oil than shampoo. If I'm going to air dry, I apply Renpure Originals argan oil leave-in treatment. If I'm going to blow-dry, I use Dove heat styling protective spray instead. I also use the Dove just before any additional heat styling like curling with hot rollers. My products of choice these days are Renpure Originals Argan Oil Formula shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in. They are the best products for my hair that I've ever tried. The shampoo is sulphate free.
3) When my hair gets limp and dull-looking, about every 2 months or so, I use Alberto VO5 kiwi lime squeeze clarifying shampoo from scalp to tips of my hair, then continue my usual conditioner and leave-in.

[spidermom]

Oh, and CO doesn't work very well for some. I can do it once in awhile, but my hair generally looks more limp and needs to be washed sooner than when I use the routine above.