My hair care routine isn't working any more. Help for a waist-length 1c/C?

[QuillEnchanted]

My hair care routine doesn't seem to be doing the trick any more, and I'd love some advice on what to try next. Here's what I'm working with now:

The hair:
-1b/1c, coarse, ii thickness .25" shy of iii
- I'm about one inch away from hip length now, and I'm wondering if the weight of the longer hair has anything to do with the new issues...
- Not sure on my porosity, but I tried the float test and my hair was still floating after 8 minutes, so... low porosity?

Care routine:
- Washing hair once a week using CWC with Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose conditioner, AO rose scalp-soothing shampoo, Alba Botanica coconut milk conditioner
- I only shampoo the scalp, and the conditioner goes on the ends first, then I do the whole length (but still not scalp) for the second condition.
- Occasionally applying Body Shop coconut hair shine to the ends in very small amounts
- Using a wooden comb to comb hair only when at least mostly dry
- Brushing dry hair to massage my scalp using a bad-for-you brush with metal pins, capped with plastic. I'm hoping to replace this with a Tangle Teaser once I get some money.
- Generally keep my hair braided or in a bun
- No heat, no dyes, no colouring, no henna, no nothing, really. I don't do much with my hair.
- Daily scalp massages using my hands to move the oils down the length of the hair. Not doing this causes the oils to build up on my scalp and things get very not pleasant.

Current problems:
- Really really dry ends that look broken and feel crunchy. I didn't have this problem when I was using Dove's frizz control leave-in, but I don't want to go back to using it because of the cones and chemicals in it
- Hair seems to tangle/break easily. This was less of a problem when I was using a 2-in-1 shampoo and contidioner and only washing my hair with that... Said product contained both sulphates and cones. (Dove Moisture)
- My scalp has become more oily since I've stopped using a shampoo with SLS. I've not used that one in 3 months now, and my roots are still very oily. It feels like the oils sit on my hair and not the scalp itself, as the scalp feels dry-ish.


I'd like to see my hair be a little less dead looking on the ends. I'd like to balance out the dryness of the ends and the oilyness of the top. I'd like less tangling and a healthy shine... I guess I'd like a lot of things, haha!
I'm thinking I need to find a replacement for the Dove leave-in product because that's the only thing that I stopped using which may have been helping, but I'm not sure what to try.

So yes... Any advice would be greatly appreciated, be it different hair care methods or different products to try. Thanks :)

[lapushka]

You're using quite moisturizing conditioners and doing CWC on top of that (conditioning twice). When is the last time that you clarified?

[QuillEnchanted]

You're using quite moisturizing conditioners and doing CWC on top of that (conditioning twice). When is the last time that you clarified?

I've never really clarified.
I started the CWC because any shampoo seemed to really dry out my hair.

I'm thinking my old shampoo with SLS used to do that job for me, and now with the gentler shampoo, I'm getting build-up.

I've never dealt with build-up before, is there a way to identify that as the problem? I'm not sure what to look for...

[meteor]

I really like your current routine. :)
My immediate ideas that might help are:
- to help with dryness of ends, you can try oiling your ends either damp or dry (as a pre-poo and/or sealant);
- to help with tangles, you could try not using that brush with little plastic caps (they aren't good, especially for your thicker hair);
- silk/satin bonnets/pillowcases may be a good addition to your routine.

[Firefox7275]

Clarify and/ or chelate, you can use a shampoo containing cocoamidopropyl betaine instead of sulphates. To avoid the need for clarifying in future be careful to avoid or limit ingredients that can build up - many silicones, waxes, butters, some polyquats, mineral oil/ petrolatum. With coarse hair you probably want to avoid proteins, they can cause stiffness and dryness. The honeysuckle rose conditioner has shea butter, the Alba Botanica conditioner contains hydrolysed protein and a silicone, so either product could build up.

[lapushka]

I've never really clarified.
I started the CWC because any shampoo seemed to really dry out my hair.

I'm thinking my old shampoo with SLS used to do that job for me, and now with the gentler shampoo, I'm getting build-up.

I've never dealt with build-up before, is there a way to identify that as the problem? I'm not sure what to look for...

Easy. If you clarify and it's all gone, what you're suffering from, then... that was build up!

[QuillEnchanted]

Tomorrow is wash day, i think...

I'll give clarifying a try and see if that helps. Now to hunt down a clarifying shampoo...
I know Aubrey Organics makes one with a green tea base. Their stuff seems to be okay for my skin and scalp (I'm completely allergic to anything Loreal and to most conventional products as well). I'll check the ingredient list and maybe it will work.
If not, are there recommendations for a good organic clarifying shampoo?

ETA: the AO clarifying one has almond oil and almond protein... will that negate the clarifying part? Should I look for something else to try?

[Dandelion6]

I would also say try clarifying. Might do the trick. My hair is just shy of waist and I like to do a vinegar rinse every few weeks. Here's how I do it. I dilute 1 part apple cider or white vinegar to about 6 parts warm water in a plastic container (the kind that holds a generous amount of leftovers works great). After shampooing and rinsing I gather all my hair to one side and just kind of let it hang out in the solution, swishing it around. After taking it out I tilt my head back and carefully pour the solution over the top of my hair. Rinse with warm water from the shower. At this point my hair really does feel squeaky clean down to the ends. I use a generous amount of cone free conditioner like VO5 or Suave Naturals. My hair really sucks it up . Leave it on for a few minutes then rinse again. It really increases shine, too. Hope that helps!

[lapushka]

I would also say try clarifying. Might do the trick. My hair is just shy of waist and I like to do a vinegar rinse every few weeks. Here's how I do it. I dilute 1 part apple cider or white vinegar to about 6 parts warm water in a plastic container (the kind that holds a generous amount of leftovers works great). After shampooing and rinsing I gather all my hair to one side and just kind of let it hang out in the solution, swishing it around. After taking it out I tilt my head back and carefully pour the solution over the top of my hair. Rinse with warm water from the shower. At this point my hair really does feel squeaky clean down to the ends. I use a generous amount of cone free conditioner like VO5 or Suave Naturals. My hair really sucks it up . Leave it on for a few minutes then rinse again. It really increases shine, too. Hope that helps!

Sorry but a vinegar rinse does not clarify the hair.

To clarify any sulfate shampoo will do, provided it doesn't contain silicones.

[jacqueline101]

I'd clarify if that doesn't help maybe your hair likes cones.

[Dandelion6]

Sorry but a vinegar rinse does not clarify the hair.

To clarify any sulfate shampoo will do, provided it doesn't contain silicones.

Well, that's interesting. I always shampoo with Tresemme Naturals, which is a low sulfate shampoo. I still get build up on my ends from the final step in my routine which is a coney leave in, Aveeno Nourish and Condition. The diluted vinegar rinses absolutely do get the extra gunk out of my hair and give me a fresh start. I was just trying to be helpful and say what works for me.

[Leeloo]

Current problems:
- Really really dry ends that look broken and feel crunchy. I didn't have this problem when I was using Dove's frizz control leave-in, but I don't want to go back to using it because of the cones and chemicals in it
- Hair seems to tangle/break easily. This was less of a problem when I was using a 2-in-1 shampoo and contidioner and only washing my hair with that... Said product contained both sulphates and cones. (Dove Moisture)
- My scalp has become more oily since I've stopped using a shampoo with SLS. I've not used that one in 3 months now, and my roots are still very oily. It feels like the oils sit on my hair and not the scalp itself, as the scalp feels dry-ish.

Maybe try (unless you've already tried and it didn't work for you):
- clarify once or twice a month (this might help with crunchy feeling on the ends)
- putting some organic coconut oil (not coconut oil mix) on ends the night before washday (this might help with dry ends, crunchy feeling)
- catnip rinse (this might help with shine and tangles)
- S&D all up and down the length (this might help with tangles)
Hope this helps

[spirals]

Baking soda wash on my ends once or twice a month and S & D help me with crunchiness. I have the same issues you do, except for the oily scalp. It's always normal. Sometimes it itches, though.

[Firefox7275]

Well, that's interesting. I always shampoo with Tresemme Naturals, which is a low sulfate shampoo. I still get build up on my ends from the final step in my routine which is a coney leave in, Aveeno Nourish and Condition. The diluted vinegar rinses absolutely do get the extra gunk out of my hair and give me a fresh start. I was just trying to be helpful and say what works for me.

There isn't much silicone in the Aveeno, just amodimethicone which resists building up anyway. The rest of the ingredients should come out fine with a regular shampoo, providing you rinse the excess thoroughly first and do actually shampoo the ends not rely on the residue running down. If you don't rinse well you risk the combination of shampoo and conditioner building up.
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlproducts/view/4028/Aveeno-Nourish-+-Condition-Leave-In-Treatment
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curl-products/curlchemist-amodimethicone-and-other-amine-functionalized-silicones
http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2011/05/before-you-shampoo-conditioner-or-oil.html

[QuillEnchanted]

Reporting back!


Leeloo, I want to try the catnip rinse but I'm nervous to as I live with two cats that love the stuff... One already likes to lick my hair if I'm not looking, lol!


RE: Clarifying
I got the Green Beaver Cranberry Delight shampoo [For some reason I can only find cone-free herbal essences at my local stores in terms of drugstore brand shampoos, and I'm allergic to it. No suave or VO5.], cone and sulfate free, but with the recommended other ingredients for clarifying. I washed my hair, including the length.
This has solved the problem of crunchy, icky ends. Yay!
For some reason, I didn't even think to try clarifying, so thank you for the advice :)

Instead of using my normal conditioners, I let my hair dry and spritzed it with a bit of my Aveeno leave-in. (it has Amodimethicone in it, but other than that is 'clean,' and it's lighter on the protein than my usual conditioners). That seemed to help.


But the thing that helped the most with tangles and texture?
I brushed my hair.

Yeah.

I'd accidentaly gone a week just combing, and not brushing at all and I hadn't even realized it. I picked up a new BBB to replace the old pin one (finally, right?). Brushed my hair and suddenly things were more balanced and less tangle-y. I guess combing alone just doesn't work with my hair.



I'm still deciding what to do for future conditioner use... I'll probably keep the honeysuckle rose one because it has always been kind to me, but I think I'll try going without the coconut one for a while and see if that keeps the build-up to a minimum.

Thanks again for all your advice, everyone! :)

[Barnet Girl]

I think the catnip rinse is a great idea. My hair hates conventional conditioner but loved catnip. Just use a simple shampoo - a lot of plant extracts in shampoos are not as good as they sound as they can build up and block the catnip from working. You can dilute the shampoo if it dries your hair out. Your cats will be fine once it's been made into a tea. I always sprinkle a bit on the floor anyway for a bit of kitty shannaigans!

[Isilme]

Tresseme claims to contain no silicones, but they list polymers which are in fact a plastic material. And ditch that awful brush:)

[Panth]

Well, that's interesting. I always shampoo with Tresemme Naturals, which is a low sulfate shampoo. I still get build up on my ends from the final step in my routine which is a coney leave in, Aveeno Nourish and Condition. The diluted vinegar rinses absolutely do get the extra gunk out of my hair and give me a fresh start. I was just trying to be helpful and say what works for me.

What vinegar will do is deal with a certain amount of mineral deposit, particularly of limescale (i.e. gently chelate). This is probably the effect you are noticing.

[SleepyTangles]

Another vote for clarifying your hair :)! Then, I'd recommend a deep treatment of some sort. I've did CWC for a period, but I've discovered it gets build up on my hair too fast for my liking...
When I clarify usually use a cone-free sulphate shampoo (low sulfate is good, I usually just wash twice) with a sprinkle of baking soda, then apply the DT and wait as long as I can. I usually get out of the shower, dine and study as usual... then I jump back in the shower, rinse it off and do an ACV rinse. I found this always do the trick for dry ends full of build-up (sorry for the long, detailed description :o)!