Oh boy, that is not true. There is alot of research. Even the various molecules in various stages of the dye process are subject to patenting. Processes for extraction of Lawsone have been patented. The Lawsone molecules have also been synthesized. The henna dye releases from the plant matter thru acidic (chemical) hydrolysis or enzymatic hydrolysis (which is faster). I hope I spelled it right in english.
Some people think that acidic solutions are required for the dye release, but this is wrong. Besides the scientific chemical research there is also field research that showed that acidic solutions are not required for dye release.
Hydrolysis might entail that the dye is already there in the plant matter, ready for usage as soon as it was released out of the broken down cell walls. Several research reports testify to that. The dye is said to be present in dry leaves at concentrations from 1,0 - 1,4 %. The roots also contain red colouring matter, as well as other parts of the plant. The flowers contain ß- and a-Ionones, which are related molecules. There are several crystalline and other compounds in various parts of the plant, fex in the bark as well.
Further research has proven the simple view of the pre-existing dye, with only leaves and roots being of interest, to be wrong though. There are several stages of the dye before it can actually dye, though aquiring a water solution that dyes is fairly easy. The dyeing capacities are not durable though.
It easily gets destroyed by sunlight, air and so on (oxidizes). The dye molecule is called 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphtochinone (HNO, Lawson, C10H6O3). There are also many synonymes. The plant holds a pre-dye substance (glycosidic precursor) called dihydrolawsone glucoside, which is converted into the dyeing molecule in the waterbased paste after the water had contact with crushed leaves (especially the petioles). Vitamine C naturally occurs in the plant and can react with the Lawsone-molecules and create a stable vitamin C conjugate that is also water soluble. Also different oxidizing processes can occur in the molecules, already present in the hair. Henna dyes protein fibers well, like hairs of humans or animals which contain keratine, but also silk, which is also a protein fibre. The dyeing process can be enhanced with alkaline substances (mordents such as tea tree oil fex).
Traditionally henna has a well established place in folk medicine. But henna plays a big role in various fields of medical research in modern research as well. For example concerning the role of vitamin C: The oxidized form of lawsone has chemical reactivity similar to oxidized lipid (fat) compounds produced under conditions of oxidative stress. These oxidized lipids can lead to oxidative damage in the body, especially to DNA and to proteins. These previously unrecognized properties of Vitamin C can be of interest for comparison to what happens with C vitamines in human bodies.
Just an example of various methods of extracting dye out of henna plant matter (This is actually from late 2011):
http://sphinxsai.com/Vol.3No.4/chem/...944%29OD11.pdf
/ CMG
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