Possible way to protect hair from conventional peroxide damage

[ktani]

While no damage to hair has ben reported, using coconut and argan oils as a pretreatmnt before conventional hair colouring or lightening, some after process dryness of the hair was reported, until Dolly's report. She used a heavy overnight coconut oiling and her results were amazing.

18. Dolly, - no dryness at all this time, by using more coconut oil - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=676, more details on her hair's condition - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=679, details of her method of application - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=684, and detailed pictures - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=682

I think that other factors may help resolve the issue too and I am hoping that this http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=727, will be useful.

[ktani]

Problems with results because of coatings, timing and the amount of oil used, were not issues, based on these reports. girlcat36 had no problems with using coconut oil for a longer time, in her first report. Avocado oil was used for extra conditioning by scalawaggirl, to replace shea butter. ChicO replaced jojoba oil with coconut and argan oils and 1 drop of hemp oil. And Dolly used more coconut oil. What is mixed with coconut or coconut and argan oils, can interefere with their absorption, colour and lightening results. No damage was reported in any of the reports with coconut or coconut and argan oils. The problems reported with another oil, a butter, timing etc. were about dryness, colour and lightening results.

6. girlcat36, - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=168

12. scalawaggirl, - 40 volume peroxide developer, coconut, argan and avocado oils - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=479, pictures with details - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=463

17. ChicO, - bleach and conventional colour, on 2/3 1 yr old henna and conventional colour, coconut and argan oil with 1 drop of hemp oil - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=632, Details on the Soap Cap - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=636, Pictures and more details on her hair condition - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=643, More details on the condition of her hair - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=645, - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=647

18. Dolly, - no dryness at all this time, by using more coconut oil - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=676, more details on her hair's condition - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=679, details of her method of application - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=684, and detailed pictures - http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/...&postcount=682

[ktani]

Method of application for coconut and argan oils used as a pretreatment before conventional hair colouring or lightening

Prior to the pretreatment, the hair should not be conditioned with conventional conditioners, other oils, butters (jojoba oil and shea butter were reported to interfere with colour and lightening results), or have coatings, build-up, or residue on it. The idea is to have the preoiling absorb into the hair as much as possible.

A light oiling with coconut oil or coconut and argan oils, can be applied to freshly washed hair, to condition it, and more applied at least 1 hour in advance of when one is ready to colour or lighten. The full preoiling can be applied from the roots to the tips of the hair, it has been reported, without concern of it interfering with dye uptake, even on grey hair. Coconut oil has been reported to help conventional hair colour cover grey hair better, than not using it.

The hair colour/peroxide/bleach is applied directly over the preoil(s). The preoilng replaces any preconditioner, that comes with at home conventional hair colour and has been reported to be more effective, for both conditioning and colour results.

Letting the oil(s) sit on the hair for some time in advance of the colouring or lightening process is important, to saturate the hair and let the oil(s) be absorbed. 1 hour is the minimum time, up to overnight, which some people prefer and for use with some processes like bleach or continuous lightening may be the best option.

Heavier oilings have not been reported to interfere with conventional hair colour dye uptake or conventional lightening, as long as either coconut oil or coconut and argan oils are used. Other oils, or butters, can cause problems in both areas (they can leave a coating on the hair).

A heavy coconut oiling, has been reported to eliminate after conventional hair colouring dryness of the hair, while still not interfering with dye uptake.

Most importantly, both coconut and coconut and argan oils, used as a pretreatment, have been reported to help prevent hair damage. No damage has been reported after conventionl hair colouring or lightening, when these oils have been used. Coconut oil used as a pretreatment, has been reported to help protect already damaged hair, from any further damage, by conventional hair colouring. The purpose of using these oils, is to chelate the free iron and copper, that cause free radical damage during these processes. Conditioning benefits are a bonus. Both of these oils can deliver that too and have been reported to do so, without any other added oil, being necessary.

[ktani]

An easy way to remember the 3 things one should watch, for the coconut oil/coconut oil & argan oil pretreatment method, is this,
TAM; Timing (at least 1 hour is recommended), Access to the hair (no; build-up, butters, coatings, conditioner, other oils, or residue, on the hair), Amount of oil(s) used.

Ok, I cheated with the letters lol, but it works better for me, than TAA, AMT, or ATM.

[ktani]

Any more reports?

[ktani]

Method of application details for coconut and argan oils (TAM)

Timing
The method of application suggested timing of at least an hour, is a general recommendation, based on reports of 10 and 15 minutes, resulting in after pretreatment and conventional hair colouring/lightening dryness. There was still no hair damage reported. Timing can vary with individual choice and what process is being done to the hair. The oil(s) need time to saturate the hair and be absorbed as much as possible. In the research on cells, the cells were preincubated with flavonoids for 24 hours, before being subjected to hydrogen peroxide. I do not think that 24 hours is necessary for the pretreatment but overnight has been reported to be a preferred option. So has less time, as in less than 1 hour. To me, it depends on what process is being used.

Access to the hair
Any coating on the hair can negatively affect conventional hair colour and lightening results and has been reported to do so. The pretreatment oil(s) should help with porosity issues and uneven colouring results and both dye uptake and colour results have been reported to be excellent, when these oils have been used.

Amount of oils used
Initially there were concerns, that a heavy pretreatment oiling, would interfere with conventional hair colouring and lightening results. The opposite has been reported to be the case. More of the oil(s), has been reported to resolve after process dryness issues, and both colour and lightening results have been reported to be excellent, when coconut oil/coconut oil & argan oil have been used.

[ktani]

The results reported in this post, the 3rd report here, are very impressive, IMO.

[ktani]

Getting to the report stage
The research and my theory seemed great to me at the start of this thread. It was the delivery system that needed to be sorted out.

I started with honey lightening recipe ingredients, minus the honey, to be used as a pre-treatment, initially, just before conventional hair colouring, to help protect hair from conventional peroxide damage. What soon became obvious, was that in order for a pre-treatment to be practical and useful, it would have to meet certain criteria.

1. It would need to work.

2. It would need to be cost effective and easy to do, with the ingredients readily available.

3. It would not interfere with conventional hair dye uptake (and lightening).

4. It would not be drying to the hair or leave it in an undesireable state.

5. It would not add a colour of its own to the hair.


The first reports
As it turned out, coconut oil, one of the honey lightening recipe boosters (it contains a small amount of peroxide that has not been reported anywhere on the boards, to affect hair colour undiluted, with water, or very much even then, on its own), was already being used as a pre-treatment by some people, before they dyed their hair with conventional colour. It was meeting all of the above criteria, without any other addition to it. However, I continued to research other products and oils, butters, etc., to see if there was any research that would support their use.


In the meantime, P&G, had been doing chemical chelant research, in an effort to reduce conventional hair colour and lightening damage and prevent it, and found that chelating copper, not just free iron (as stated in honey lightening peroxide research), can help prevent free radical damage too, when chemical lightening processes are done. Coincidentally, one of the the methods stated in their patent application, is to use the chelants as a pre-treatment, before conventional hair colouring and lightening, with the hair colour, or peroxide/bleach applied over it. The suggested method for this recipe, came from this research, before I read the P&G patent application.


More reports
Thanks to missy60, I researched argan oil and sure enough, it chelates copper (coconut oil does too but I believe argan oil chelates more copper than it can). More people started reporting in and I continued to research other products.


Reported results
Both coconut oil and argan oil, were reported to meet all of the criteria (Cosmetic argan oil is very light in colour, with no red in it and should not add colour to hair. The food oil is darker with a red tint.), and every other oil, plus other products I researched, do not have the same chelating properties, in the same amounts, as coconut and argan oils.

The results reported also indicated that when other things (jojoba oil and shea butter), were substitued for, or added to coconut oil, some of the criteria were not met. Both of these products, underline why coatings on the hair can be problematic, when chemical processes are done. Their coatings can and did interfere with dye uptake and lightening. Both jojoba oil and shea butter are not absorbed well into hair and contain constituents that coat hair.

Coconut oil is absorbed into hair and argan oil gives every indication that it does as well, based on reported results.

Both of these oils meet all of the criteria necessary for a successful pre-treatment and no damage to the hair has been reported, following conventional hair colouring and now lightening, when these oils have been used. The surprising thing, is that in addition to this, both of these oils, when left on the hair long enough, and in sufficient quantity, have also been reported to condition hair well enough, to alleviate post conventional colouring and lightening dryness. What has also been reported from the beginning but more so lately, when heavier oilings have been done, is increased dye uptake. That is also supported by P&G research, regarding their chemical chelant. Chelating the free copper and iron yields better colour.

Damage to hair has been reported since I first wrote this post in 4 reports: 1 on a very few strands of previously damaged hair, the 2nd on hair where excessive use of conventional colouring and lightening chemicals were used, the 3rd, hair that has become very fine but still not broken off after 8 successive bleachings and the 4th minimal damage after 2 successive bleachings, plus conventional dye. All 4 of these reports emphasize the need for caution, as frequently stated in this thread, to not abuse conventional chemical processing and to be aware of the fragility of previously damaged hair.

[ktani]

New reports are always welcome!

[almudena]

Firstly, a big thank you to ktani for this wonderful thread

Secondly, a bit of background : I’ve been using henna alternating with indigo for the last two years. I love the color and condition of henna&indigo , but since I have about 50% whites, especially on the top of my head, and dark hair, I do my roots every two weeks. There is nothing as the combination of henna and indigo to cover greys, but I get tired of the process and from time to time I alternate it with chemical dye.

That said I did my hair with L’Oreal Preference #7.43 this morning. My hair has darkened a bit too much and I wouldn’t mind to lighten it a bit, so I decided to give that colour a try (even though I’m aware of the difficulties that lightening henna and indigo imply) I applied the coconut oil and let it sit during one hour. Then, I applied the dye. Well, let me start saying that I don’t think I’ll use that dye again. My eyes started to water right away and the smell was hyper strong. I have tried other dyes in the past and I don’t remember such strong smell ever. I finished and after 25 minutes I got a call and had to leave the house immediately, so I jumped into the shower and rinsed with the conditioner included in the box dye and then with Honeysuckle Aubrey Organics.

Results: darker hair on my length (ironies of life ) and not very good grey coverage, but that might be due to the short amount of time I let the dye sit. Although as I said, I have very resistant greys and I don’t think letting the dye sit longer would have done that much. The important thing is that my hair is in great condition now
And after all, it's very likely that I end doing a henna/ indigo in the next days in order to better cover my greys. In spite of everything I still love my chocolate color hair which shines red under the sun

Conclusion: coconut + chemical dye worked for me as far as I don’t see damage after using a pretty strong dye. What has not worked is the election of the dye. However, I have had the same issues with grey coverage in the past and I didn’t use coconut oil previously, so I don’t blame the oil for not getting good grey coverage. Thus, when I decide to use chemical dye again (no L’Oreal Preference), I’ll keep coconut oil in mind .