some question re henna mix, time on hair, Moroccan henna

[flickm]

Hi All,
I've just joined, so i hope it's ok to wade in with a question.
I've just hennaed my greying blonde hair for the first time since the 70s. I used Lush Caca Rouge, but it didn't cover well - there were pockets where the cocoa butter had stopped the dye taking - so I did it again. I loved the colour, but after a couple of washes it was already fading (maybe something to do with the cocoa butter, and the fact they tell you to use boiling water to mix). and, boy, what a mess, there was henna all over the bathroom. But I loved the colour: a lovely gingery shade with strawberry blonde highlights.
So I decided to use Jamila baq and do it again. Because the Lush had faded so easily, I left the Jamila on for five hours. It was a dream to apply and wash out, with virtually no mess. The colour is beautiful, but too red and too dark for me - I prefered the more copper shade of the Lush. I've managed to lighten it a tiny amount with honey, but not very much.
So my question is this. I've bought some Moroccan baq henna from Natural Spa Supplies here in the UK. They say to use boiling water and apply immediately, but I don't want to do that as I've read that boiling water shortens the lifespan of the henna on your hair. When I come to do my roots, how long should I leave it on my hair to get a coppery colour rather than deep red? I want to steer a course between not getting it too dark and not having it fade. I'm aiming for a copper that is rich and lasting without being too dark. I don't want to mess with mixing in cassia. I've been using cassia to blend in greys on my blonde hair, and it doesn't stay in my hair very long.
Also, have people had experience of using plain water for the mix? I've read conflicting opinions on this. some people say the colour isn't as lasting, while others say it makes no difference. And will the Caca Rouge continue to fade, even though I've put Jamila over it? (at the moment I've three layers on my hair, two Lush one one Jamila).
Any help would be much appreciated
flickm

[Popsicle]

I use Indian henna from the grocery store. It is designed for hand art and only costs $2 for a 100g box. It is a pure, fine sift. I just use boiling water, stir, let it sit for one hour in a very warm place and I get a deep coppery natural red color leaving it on my hair for just two hours. It is common for a bit more of the henna to come out in the second wash; it's often just residue clinging to the scalp. I have put a non-oily, non-silicone conditioner in the mix just prior to application to make it even creamier, but it's not necessary.

[Popsicle]

I think the Caca Rouge has fat in the bar, but I have never used it.

[flickm]

I use Indian henna from the grocery store. It is designed for hand art and only costs $2 for a 100g box. It is a pure, fine sift. I just use boiling water, stir, let it sit for one hour in a very warm place and I get a deep coppery natural red color leaving it on my hair for just two hours. It is common for a bit more of the henna to come out in the second wash; it's often just residue clinging to the scalp. I have put a non-oily, non-silicone conditioner in the mix just prior to application to make it even creamier, but it's not necessary.

Thanks for the info Popsicle. You are lucky to be able to get Indian henna cheap locally. Though we have a large Asian (Pakistani) population here in Oxford, UK, most of the Indian shops have gone, so I have to buy henna online.

interestingly, I only left the Lush henna on for two hours, as advised, so maybe thats why the colour was what I liked. Do you find leaving it for only two hours means it fades quicker, or is it pretty much permanent on your hair?

[flickm]

I think the Caca Rouge has fat in the bar, but I have never used it.

It has cocoa butter and essential oils, plus perfume of some kind. Compared with baq henna, it is very very messy to apply.

[hennalonghair]

I wouldn't use boiling water immediately. I'd let it sit for 5 minutes first so it's just hot water.
Morroccan henna has the quickest dye release - 1 to 2 hours . The warmer the liquid the quicker the release time BUT the quicker the demise also.
If you are going to use hot water then use it immediately and leave it in for at least 4 hours.
Jamilla needs about 8 hours for dye release. You most likely didn't wait long enough for dye release or leave it in your hair long enough.

[Popsicle]

I like my henna sterilized with boiling water. I get full dark dye release. I can send pics later. I've bought it from two different websites and three different local stores. I put a bowl of the mixture in my oven on the lowest setting and take it out long enough for it to be comfortable on my head. Honestly, henna is not complicated. I think those who wait many hours are keeping it at room temperature. Mine never fades; not on my head and not in the bowl. If you by some at a local grocery you will feel free, at 2 dollars a box, to try it the way I do it and see what I mean. Henna doesn't vary a lot from place to place it is going to be the same color, etc. I like to make a big batch and freeze some for root touch ups.

[Popsicle]

Oh, my henna I bought recently at the Indian grocer is from Pakistan. It has Jamilla written on the box in large print. My roots I used it for match the rest of my hair exactly and it had been dyed with Hesh mehandi "heena" from India.

[Popsicle]

What matters is the expiration day on the side of the box. The product is good for a couple of years from "manufacturing date" / harvest date. I keep my unused boxes of powder in my freezer to extend the fresh usability. I think the product will produce less red after the "best used befor date".
I sometimes wonder if members here are receiving old product that is not revealing the expiration date. The powers I bought online did not show an expiration date on the box. I never by a brand without that information clearly printed by the original source farm.

[flickm]

Thanks hennalonghair and Popsicle. The Jamila took all too well, staining quite deep red after five hours on my hair. I did leave it only three hours for dye release, but it was staining my palm orange and had a brown crust. I read that the summer 2014 crop has really fast dye release - have no idea if it's true. Would it have been a more mellow colour if I'd left it longer? I used quite hot filtered water and lemon juice.

We have no small Indian grocers here in Oxford Popsicle (I live in England).i have to order my henna online. Thank you for the info about using very hot water. Incidentally, there have been no instructions on either the Jamila or the Moroccan henna I bought.

I shall follow your advice. i only have to touch up the roots next time, so not too much powder to waste if it needs another going over, so will leave on two hours and see.

Very grateful to you both for y our help