Does brown frost indicate dye release in henna?

[Heidi_234]

Fellow henna gurus!
Today we gathered to determine and solve this abysmally important question -
:disgust:
Seriously now. I've read before that henna turning from green to brown doesn't indicated dye release. Since I first seen the phenomenon only with BAQ henna (my most recent hennaing), I recalled my past researchings and started to wonder. Doesn't it really? Henna is greenish by nature (ground leaves), when dye releasing it adds red to the green, which every kid in school knows will result brown.
Just to reinforce the fact that the brown frosting isn't cosidered an indication for dye release - Why is anywhere is it said to do a spot test intead? Looking for the henna to become brown is that much easier.
So, your input?

[kdaniels8811]

I never thought about it, just mix the henna and keep in a warm spot for 12 hours. I understood the warmth was what encouraged the dye release. Any other foks have comments or thoughts?

[Autumnberry]

Turning brown doesn't necessarily indicate full dye release, in my experience.

Last time I hennaed it turned brown, there was some dye release, but I got a weak stain on my roots. My spot tests on fingers showed a weak stain, too, consequently. I haven't been able to determine why the BAQ henna gave a weak stain. It had been sitting on the counter for 12 hours. I mixed the henna with warm chamomile tea, so I don't know whether the dye demised somewhat, or perhaps the indoor temperature was too cold. Previously, I got a strong stain with other batches of Yemeni henna. I relied on the brown color erroneously.

[lora410]

My henna is always brown when it is ready, and I can see a layer of dye floating on the top like a pool of oil.

[Heidi_234]

Turning brown doesn't necessarily indicate full dye release, in my experience.

Last time I hennaed it turned brown, there was some dye release, but I got a weak stain on my roots. My spot tests on fingers showed a weak stain, too, consequently. I haven't been able to determine why the BAQ henna gave a weak stain. It had been sitting on the counter for 12 hours. I mixed the henna with warm chamomile tea, so I don't know whether the dye demised somewhat, or perhaps the indoor temperature was too cold. Previously, I got a strong stain with other batches of Yemeni henna. I relied on the brown color erroneously.
I think you've got dye demise. I left my henna for overnight on the counter and got complete dye demise.

[HennaMuse]

First of all the dye release time can very form one brand/harvest to the next. I have Yemeni henna that releases in about three hours. Jamila I let stand two days!

The reason many people suggest a spot test is because some hennas, for reasons I've yet to understand, don't show much brown film. They just change color overall slightly instead making it hard to detect.

The color change indicates both dye release AND demise. Its a tricky thing. You see, you want the paste to be in contact with your hair WHILE the dye is actively releasing. The dye molecules will link up to each other if they don't have keratin to grab onto when they are released, making them useless. The useless, interlinked dye molecules make up the brown film!

If any of you have noticed that water or other neutral mixes turn brown right away, and lemon juice and other acids do not, this is because the acidity creates an environment that prevent the dye molecules from linking to each other as quickly as it would in a neutral environment.

Much more on all this chemistry stuff here:
Henna Chem 101 (http://www.hennasuppliers.org/body-art/henna-for-body-art/78-henna-chem)

Jen

[dearladydisdain]

Every time I've hennaed I've used the brown layer on top as an indication of the dye releasing. I know I read it somewhere and it's always worked for me! :shrug:

[Katze]

IMO (as a henna artist, not henna head) there is no such thing as 'dye release.' Years ago many of us in the online henna community came up with this idea as shorthand for an explanation of the brown 'skin' on henna paste. However, since no one really knows what is happening with henna (there is no scientific research on it as of yet= - is it fermenting? Is something happening with a hydrogen molecule? In fact, no one really knows. On Henna Tribe, we had some interesting experiments about all of this - check out the 'henna lab' forum on www.hennatribe.com

I look for the liquid forming around my paste since I do not always see this brown frost or skin - not all henna varieties do this. But really, the only way of knowing your henna is 'developed' is to try.

So how do henna artists know when their henna is ready? Put a blob of henna on your wrist (for body art quality henna). Leave for a minute. Does it stain orange? Your henna is ready. You can also put a blob on a piece of white paper.

Looking for this liquid or frost or skin can be misleading, because they also all indicate that a paste is overripe and 'stale' - maybe not such an issue for hair, but definitely important for skin.

hth